For those who repaint

[Patrick Kane]

Exceeded expectations, for sure. Id bet jeff’s Paint job is better, but for the effort I put in this is really good. I spent 20-30 mins brushing and sanding the cabinet and then $40 at Sherwin Williams. Other than cleaning the gun, the whole process was dead simple and fast. If I can get these results ANYONE can.

[Darcy Warner]

Yeah, I guess I’m getting a lesson in that regard! I called every bearing warehouse today and ended up with a pair of Timken’s for $75. A bit better than the online prices were leading me to believe. I fear for the day I need to replace a proper set of precision bearings.

Have the lower band/plinth cleaned up to bare metal with the brass wire brush I have. This actually wouldn’t be that awful to strip the whole thing down to bare metal if I wanted to. Especially so if I had a proper wheel for my grinder. I imagine steel bristles would eat through paint and rust like a pit bull through chuck roast.

1200 bucks for high speed shaper bearings, bearings for the top head of my whitney 970 are 2500 for a pair of paired duplex bearings.

[Patrick Kane]

I’m 30, and don’t expect my thirst for machines to let up, so I’m sure I’m going to get to experience that bill one day. Gonna need a drink afterwards.

Those bearings for the planer probably last 50+ years, right? Assuming you continually lubricate them.

[Darcy Warner]

I’m 30, and don’t expect my thirst for machines to let up, so I’m sure I’m going to get to experience that bill one day. Gonna need a drink afterwards.

Those bearings for the planer probably last 50+ years, right? Assuming you continually lubricate them.

They still sound great, planer was built in 73, from what I saw they are still the original ones. Just keep some oil in it and they will outlast me.

[Jeff Heath]

Looks really good. Just an FYI, I can't tell for sure, but it looks like you got some paint on the trunnions. If so, make sure you scrape that off before you put your top back on. It'll make tilting the blade a real PITA if you don't.

[Patrick Kane]

I did get a little overspray on the trunnions. I didnt think to tape those off like i did the openings for the bevel/height adjustment, and motor cover. Thankfully, i had already lubed everything down with lithium spray while i was playing with it on day one, so the overspray came right off the machined surface. Good note for future noob sprayers like myself is to just tape off everything.

Hopefully have the motor back from the shop this week along with he VFD. I want to move this thing into place and run it.

[Tom M King]

It looks nicer than anything I've ever used, including the day I unboxed a new 62, the last new saw I ever bought.

[Brent Malwicks]

Prepping is a very important part of any paint job, so you may have to consider doing that quite extensively using sandpaper until it looks perfect. Just do this and you should be fine. You can also choose to sand lightly and add a bonding primer which gives you the ability to repaint faster and more easily.

[Joe Calhoon]

After primer and SW acrylic epoxy



Could be just the way I am, but if I'm going to go to all the effort to restore a machine, I just do it complete.

Just in case, here's the SW paint code:

Jeff, curious about the SW precat epoxy. Does it harden up quickly? Easy to spray? I have been using their metal finishing enamel, Ultra deep base.
I finally had success spraying it after many trials. It takes forever to harden though.
Joe

[Patrick Walsh]

I agree with joe.

Pretty much with anything if I do if it takes any amount of my time I’m gonna domth4 best job I can. That does not always mean the finished product is tht nice lol but I always try.

I figure why take something completely apart then get lazy and or later have a area rust, rot or whatever then wish I had just Dottie’s all my I’s and crossed all my t’s.

So what are people spraying when they do full high restorations of machinery?

After primer and SW acrylic epoxy



Could be just the way I am, but if I'm going to go to all the effort to restore a machine, I just do it complete.

Just in case, here's the SW paint code:

Jeff, curious about the SW precat epoxy. Does it harden up quickly? Easy to spray? I have been using their metal finishing enamel, Ultra deep base.
I finally had success spraying it after many trials. It takes forever to harden though.
Joe

[Jeff Heath]

After primer and SW acrylic epoxy



Could be just the way I am, but if I'm going to go to all the effort to restore a machine, I just do it complete.

Just in case, here's the SW paint code:

Jeff, curious about the SW precat epoxy. Does it harden up quickly? Easy to spray? I have been using their metal finishing enamel, Ultra deep base.
I finally had success spraying it after many trials. It takes forever to harden though.
Joe

Joe

I agree with you all the way. Too much time and effort is put into a full restoration, so while I'm there, I try to put my best foot forward on paint. I let one machine slide, about 7 years ago, and was pissed at myself afterward for leaving it as-is. I'm not passing judgement on anyone else's process, but mine is to take the machine down to bare metal, body filler and smooth out the rough spots (I use Rage), and primer and paint.

The SW acrylic epoxy sprays very well. I've sprayed it with my HVLP turbine gun, with a 1.5 mm and 2.00 mm tip, and I have also sprayed it with my hvlp conversion gun. The 2 mm tip sprays easier, but also leaves more orange peel. For an industrial machine, it's not a big deal. With the conversion gun, I can crank up the pressure a little and get it to spray really well.

I like the paint a lot. It hardens very nicely, and none of my machines has chipped or flaked. I am not hard on my machines, though. I'm the only person working in my shop, as I'm a one man band. I don't bang into my machines with a pallet jack or lumber cart, so I can't compare it to a rougher life somewhere where abuse is common. I think it's a great, durable paint, and being water based, clean up is a breeze. I like that A LOT!

Jeff

[Joe Calhoon]

Thanks Jeff, I like that it is water base, the SW metal finishing enamel is nasty material. I consider myself a good wood finisher but the metal finishing has sure been a challenge to me. On my full restorations so far my paint finish is OK but less than top notch. Working on it though. Just finished a Festo Feeder for my T23 yesterday and my best effort so far.

Full restoration is a ton of work and I feel once you start you have to go all the way. I enjoy it but it sure takes a lot of time away from woodwork. I don’t know if I have many more in me and would have been bad business wise early in my career. I have a Hema bandsaw, Wadkin mortiser and Oliver OSS in the restoration lineup next but they are all in good condition and functioning well so it may not happen.

I also like to take care of my machines even when I had a crew. No bumping with lumber and carts.

[David Kumm]

Mainly on metal working machines but also on a few others, I will top off the paint with a few cans of Spraymax clearcoat. It is made to touch up autos and a two part that even acetone won't dissolve. There is plunger in the bottom of the can. Once depressed you have about 24 hours to use up the can. There is no solvent that will attack it. Dave

[Bill Dufour]

I like to use aluminum foil to mask weird shaped parts on machines. Pushes in tight and easy pushed out of the way, and stays there, so you can paint behind that part.

[Jeff Heath]

Thanks Jeff, I like that it is water base, the SW metal finishing enamel is nasty material. I consider myself a good wood finisher but the metal finishing has sure been a challenge to me. On my full restorations so far my paint finish is OK but less than top notch. Working on it though. Just finished a Festo Feeder for my T23 yesterday and my best effort so far.

Full restoration is a ton of work and I feel once you start you have to go all the way. I enjoy it but it sure takes a lot of time away from woodwork. I don’t know if I have many more in me and would have been bad business wise early in my career. I have a Hema bandsaw, Wadkin mortiser and Oliver OSS in the restoration lineup next but they are all in good condition and functioning well so it may not happen.

I also like to take care of my machines even when I had a crew. No bumping with lumber and carts.

I hear you, Joe. I've completed 47 restorations, and the Y30 snowflake makes 48. I'm pretty well toasty right now, and will be taking a break from restoring machines for a little while when it's finished. I have eased into a semi-retired state with the furniture shop, and am presently not taking on any more commissions, preferring to work on my own projects right now. The kids are all moved out and I have a big, empty house and smallish shop. I'm getting it ready for sale, and I'm gonna build a small house and a biggish shop! Just the way it should be.....

I've got 9 more machines in the rathole waiting on a restoration, and I'm not sure if I'm going to get to them all. A couple are upgrades to smaller capacity machines currently being used in my shop, and the rest will end up getting passed on to fund my growing obsession with metalworking. Everybody's gotta have a hobby.....