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Thread: How to cut this edge detail?

  1. #1
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    How to cut this edge detail?

    This is the top edge detail of an Ikea dresser that's part of a bedroom set. It's older Ikea stuff that is actually made of real wood and of pretty good quality. I need to make a top shelf unit for the dresser, and need to reproduce this profile if possible. The stock is about 15/16, the beads are around 3/16 and the rabbet between the beads is 1/2". I need to go around the corner as shown in the picture, and could use a template. So how would I do it? Grind a custom shaper knife and use a corner template and rub collar? I was actually hoping for something a little less involved than that if possible.

    After some more thought I'm thinking a piloted corner beading bit (Amana 54163)
    https://www.amanatool.com/54163-carbide ... shank.html
    could be used to cut the beads from the top and bottom. After the beads were cut the rabbet could be cut using a 1/2" rabbeting bit and the proper sized pilot with the pilot riding on one of the beads.

    Ikea edge detail.jpg

  2. #2
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    Beading bit along the edges first and then relieve the field in the middle with a straight cutter.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
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    I ordered the Amana bit so I'll give that a try. Thanks

  4. #4
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    That’s going to be a tough cut, especially with the round corners! Good luck.

  5. #5
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    Yes, I think you can do it with that Amana bit. Cut the rabbet first, and then use the beading bit from the top and then the bottom.
    Rick

  6. #6
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    I did this with a hand (plough) plane ...




    ... but this does not count!

    With a router I would do exactly as Jim suggested ..

    Beading bit along the edges first and then relieve the field in the middle with a straight cutter.


    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    I did this with a hand (plough) plane ...




    ... but this does not count!

    With a router I would do exactly as Jim suggested ..



    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Jim & Derek, can you explain how you would relieve the field around the corner with a straight bit?
    -- Jim

    Use the right tool for the job.

  8. #8
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    Jim, when you cut the bead on one side of the board, it will leave a quirk ...


    Cut the other side in the same way. This also leaves a quirk.

    Now you can remove the waste between the quirks.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  9. #9
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    Yeah, except you can't go around the corners with a straight bit, you would need a piloted rabbet bit narrower than the center section to be removed, unless you can find one the perfect width. The bearing would ride on the beads, first one side then the other.

    John

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by John TenEyck View Post
    Yeah, except you can't go around the corners with a straight bit, you would need a piloted rabbet bit narrower than the center section to be removed, unless you can find one the perfect width. The bearing would ride on the beads, first one side then the other.

    John
    John .. right. So do the centre first.

    EDIT: On second thoughts, use a grooving bit in a router table to remove the centre. Easy peasy.



    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Last edited by Derek Cohen; 11-16-2018 at 10:36 AM.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    John .. right. So do the centre first.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

    That makes the most sense to me but you will likely have to upsize the bearing on the beading bit to do it that way.

    John

  12. #12
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    Feather boards are going to be critical for this operation, especially when removing the waste between the radiused edges.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  13. #13
    How about using a pattern to guide the bearing around the corners?

  14. #14
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    Cut the beads first using the guide bearing.

    Cut the groove or center out last by putting the rabbeting bit in a router table , you’d have to run it twice flipping the top over so you’d set the bit the proper height to come into the bead cuts.

    You’d have the to the corner carefully But IF you use a sacrifal fence that you plunged into the rabbit bit such that only the cutter was sticking out of the fence you’d have a zero clearance fence and direct bearing to run the top around the round corners.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Girouard View Post
    Cut the beads first using the guide bearing.

    Cut the groove or center out last by putting the rabbeting bit in a router table , you’d have to run it twice flipping the top over so you’d set the bit the proper height to come into the bead cuts.

    You’d have the to the corner carefully But IF you use a sacrifal fence that you plunged into the rabbit bit such that only the cutter was sticking out of the fence you’d have a zero clearance fence and direct bearing to run the top around the round corners.
    Thanks, Paul; I was going to use a variation of your suggestion but hadn't thought about a zero clearance fence. That's a good idea I'll try. I also have a lot of different sized pilot bearings (and a lathe to cut more if need be) so I could cut the rabbet in stages if need be.

    In any event I'll be milling lots of extra stock for practice.

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