I've had no problem cutting them with a jigsaw/sabersaw and relatively fine tooth blade. Nice to be able to notch around things.
Contributor
I've had no problem cutting them with a jigsaw/sabersaw and relatively fine tooth blade. Nice to be able to notch around things.
Contributor
I've had concrete floor forever and never had a disaster. I do have a soft rubber pad to stand on that is more comfortable than cold concrete and this helps immensely in the winter months. I would not spend money on anything fancy
Contributor
Matt, my shop has an uneven, sloped concrete floor - pretty much the worst flooring for woodworking. After dropping a chisel (always blade first) and denting my spokeshave I just amazon'ed one of these 3' x 12' anti-fatigue mats and laid it across my bench and sharpening area - where 95% of the action happens in the shop. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 -- NORMAL --
Doesn't slip, is light enough to move around, is delivered to your door, and the difference from standing on regular concrete is dramatic. It's already saved several of my tools too. Highly recommended and easy. The benefit of having a concrete floor is you'll insist on having a wooden floor if and when you ever build a new shop.
Moderator
If this refers to the stall mats, what blade did you use? I tried several and they bogged down and barely cut. Maybe my mats are different.Originally Posted by Bob Andre
Contributor
I used a skill saw with a straight edge and an old rip blade. Though I did need to "open" the kerf as I went along.
Richard
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Unfortunately can't recall what blade I used, but I had to notch around some machines and it went well. I would start out with a wood medium coarse blade. It may have been the type of rubber in the mat as in the past cutting them was not fun. I did end up with my bandsaw on top of the mat and it has been sufficiently stable. I also switched to Dansko shoes a few years ago and they helped a lot with the concrete floor.
Contributor
Although the Dungeon Shop has a concrete floor ( it IS a basement..) there is a very good reason for not putting down mats or rugs......after the lot of rain, I have the Dungeon Creek going across the floor, heading for the one floor drain....as long as I keep the "creek bed" clear, and the drain free of junk....I merely wait out the water, then go back to work. Soggy rugs and matts stink, and become moldy...not something I want in the basement, or the house. Half the woodworking I do, I simply sit down on the shop stool....saves the legs a bit.
Contributor
My shop has a heated concrete floor (luxury I know!) so I resist covering the floor and racks are on feet or wheels to allow air movement. I relied on good footware safety boots but after removing the corner of a Japanese chisel I bought a heavy rubber mat 4*8’ about 1/4” thick. The relief to the legs is noticeable!
A sprung wooden floor is the ideal answer for your joints, noise absorption, floor insulation but not damp issues.
You can do a lot with very little! You can do a little more with a lot!
Moderator
On a similar note, I found the footwear to be the most important thing. I use to have intense heel pain from plantar fasciitis which required periodic medical attention including cortizone shots. When a friend introduced me to Tellec footwear I tried them and have been wearing them almost every day since. With those plus one simple stretch on occasion I haven't had any foot pain in a bunch of years. I wear them nearly all day, around the farm, to church, in the shop. What I buy are sort of closed-toe sandels, somewhat like Clogs but much spongier. Where at one time I had to sit after an hour of standing and walking, herding peacocks, feeding horses, I can now stand even on concrete for most of the day, walking for breaks and sitting for meals and this silly computer. I switch to other shoes/boots for chainsawing and horseback riding or going to weddings/funerals.
I usually buy black. https://www.amazon.com/Telic-Unisex-.../dp/B07GC67F1K
JKJ
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