Tannewitz type U saw

[Patrick Kane]

Checked out this saw today while I was out and about. A few things I’m unsure about. One, the miter slots were infilled with bars and slot head screws, is this normal? Next, what are all these boxes attached to the cabinet? I know three phase motors usually have a separate starter than the switch, but this thing had 3+ boxes. Maybe an electric brake? Are those valuable on the second hand market? The biggest question is concerning the blade elevation. It was extremely tight, like needed two hands to move it. Bevel worked ok, could be smoother, but the cabinet interior was packed with debris, so I’m sure the mechanisms are jammed with crud. What are the odds it’s not just sawdust and old grease? I’ve always understood these saws to be relatively bulletproof, but I’d hate to buy one and discover it has a failure in the height mechanism that will need to be custom fabricated. Did some versions of this saw not come with locking knobs for height and bevel wheels? That was my first thought onsite, but it didn’t appear that those settings could be locked. Anything else to look out for with these models? The motors didn’t come in a wacky high voltage, did they? I’m working with a home shop, so I can’t generate 440v+ three phase. I could see some vestiges for why people speak fondly of tannewitz saws, but man this thing looked and felt tired. No fence, miter, extension table, nada.

For those like me, the base measures 32” wise by 27” deep. In other words, it will fit through a door without the top on.

[Bill Space]

You might be better off asking these questions on OWWM.

Not to imply you will not get help here, but the OWWM guys live and breathe this stuff...

Bill

[David Kumm]

Darcy will be the go to guy here for that saw. Old machines in commercial shops can have all kinds of boxes that you may not need. None look like a brake but the picture is small. Sometimes there is a box with fuses and or a disconnect. I wouldn't worry about them and they won't have much value on the resale market. The infill strips are common on old saws. Dave

[Darcy Warner]

Could be a lot of things in those boxes, fuses, transformer for low voltage controls, etc. Does it have the rack and pinion fence? I think I have an extra some place, plus a matching miter set. It probably needs cleaned and lubed.

Pretty simple machines. Only thing I didn't like are the fine lead screws for tilt and height. Takes forever to crank.

There is really not much of a need to lock adjustments on these saws, they stay where you set it.

[David Kumm]

Most of my old saws use thrust bearings and brass or steel gearing ( no plastic or delrin )so they usually can be cleaned and made to work easily. Replace or check the bearings on the direct drive and true the spindle flanges and you will have a saw with less runout than most new machines. Dave

[Bill Dufour]

I think the mitre slots are wider then today's standard. maybe they filled in the slot to get a narrower one to fit 5/8 bars? Does this shop have three phase?
Middle box looks to be a knife switch maybe has cartridge fuses inside. The front box could be a VFD or a motor starter. Back box is most likely a transformer or maybe a phase perfect. They all look fairly modern to me.(1970's)
Bill D.

[Matt Mattingley]

The left box looks like a low-voltage transformer for three wire control. The middle box looks like heater overload protection and the back box is probably contacter and back junction box and it might have a manual disconnect knife switch. It looks like the motor was probably originally wound to 220/440. But you would really want to confirm this. At 440 only this could put you back about $1000 just to here it sing. If it is double wound it could put you back about $400.

[Martin Wasner]

Why would it cost $400 to switch taps on the motor?

Darcy nailed everything I was going to say

[Darcy Warner]

I think the mitre slots are wider then today's standard. maybe they filled in the slot to get a narrower one to fit 5/8 bars? Does this shop have three phase?
Middle box looks to be a knife switch maybe has cartridge fuses inside. The front box could be a VFD or a motor starter. Back box is most likely a transformer or maybe a phase perfect. They all look fairly modern to me.(1970's)
Bill D.

They were t style miter slots. Most of these saws came with filler strips so you didn't have an open slot if you didn't need it.

[Darcy Warner]

Why would it cost $400 to switch taps on the motor?

Darcy nailed everything I was going to say

I could have the motor rewound for 500 bucks,

[Martin Wasner]

I could have the motor rewound for 500 bucks,

But you will either have to have it rewound, or you can swap voltages. Swapping voltages doesn't cost anything if capable. That's what I was getting at.

[Darcy Warner]

But you will either have to have it rewound, or you can swap voltages. Swapping voltages doesn't cost anything if capable. That's what I was getting at.

I got you, but apparently it costs 400 bucks to wire for low voltage in Canada.

I dont believe the old wives tale about other leads buried in the motor windings either. Never seen that, always been proven wrong from the manufacturer, at least oliver, NF, Deihl, etc. Its wound for what the data plate says.

[Matt Mattingley]

Why would it cost $400 to switch taps on the motor?

Maybe it was my mistake. I thought the OP said this would be on a residential/home (single phase split sys). If the saw is, three phase 5 hp 220 V, what would you suggest for phase conversion?

Not everybody roles a machine in with plug-and-play.

[Martin Wasner]

I was thinking your post was saying it'd cost $400 to go from high to low voltage.

[Matt Mattingley]

I was thinking your post was saying it'd cost $400 to go from high to low voltage.

I was trying to say it would cost $400 for VFD to get it up and running on residential 240v. The $1000 would be piecing together RPC with a step up transformer if it were 440 V.

I guess you could get it re-wound for $500 and then spend $400 on the VFD if it is 440 V.

There may be a half dozen different options to plug this in residential.

Martin what would be your suggestion?