A little help with Shellawax please.

[Michael Costa]

Hi everyone. I've been a member for a few months, and a contributor for a few days. This is my first post in the turners forum.

I've decided to finish a mortar and pestle using Shellawax for the first time. I followed the instructions but this stuff hardens so fast that I have super smooth streaks on the mortar. I'm thinking I created too much heat using high speed (1800 rpm) when applying it causing it to harden too fast. I normally would use EEE cream and then sometimes follow with Behlen's woodturners finish.

Any other ideas as to what I did wrong and more importantly, what's the best way to fix this? I know I can sand it all down and start over but would like to know if there is a quick fix for this.

Thanks in advance.20181113_154000.jpg

[Edward Weingarden]

I haven't used Shellawax so I can't offer suggestions on it's use. However, you may want to try wiping the piece with DNA, which is the solvent/diluent for shellac. That may get rid of the streaks.

[John K Jordan]

I have but don't use Shellawax (if I remember, it is a shellac formulation, is that right?). I had a similar problem years ago with a liquid shellac-based friction polish when applying to a cocobolo lidded box. (For small diameter pieces, I apply the friction polish at about 3000 rpm.) After several tries at different speeds, I simply applied the finish with a cloth by hand, inside and out.

cocobolobox_w.jpg

As for removing the finish, if it is shellac based, denatured alcohol might take it off. That's what I did for the cocobolo box.

Will that mortal and pestle be used in the kitchen? Just wondering since I was told not to use any finish, at least on the inside. I made one last week from Olivewood.

JKJ

[Michael Costa]

I ended up using DNA and went went back to my tried and true. I'll probably round off some scrap and mess around with it. I could be nothing more than using BLO first was an issue. Who knows. It's all trial and error. Thanks.

[Michael Costa]

The mortars and pestles I make are for decorative use only. The one I'm making now is Morado. I've only made one that someone wanted for grinding herbs. I made that from mesquite (I'm in AZ and cut chunks off my trees) and didn't put a finish at all on it.

[John K Jordan]

The mortars and pestles I make are for decorative use only. The one I'm making now is Morado. I've only made one that someone wanted for grinding herbs. I made that from mesquite (I'm in AZ and cut chunks off my trees) and didn't put a finish at all on it.

Did you see the article in the last AAW Journal? He made an interesting two-ended pestle, one rounded as normal and the other more flat with a slight radius, as sort of a muddler, perhaps useful for some other things in the kitchen. I'll have to see what my Lovely Bride says about it.

JKJ

[Wes Henson]

Michael,
I've gotten those lines with Shellawax and Mylands. In my experince it is from adding too much product or adding additional coats before the first coat is dry. Then the whole mess gums up.
The diameter of that piece might be pushing the limits of what the Shellawax can do, it dies fast. The cream might be a better option, but you can probably make it work.
Remember that the friction and heat is going to set dry the finish and make it harden. multiple thin coats are best
I go 2,000 or 2,500 rpm, maybe fast with smaller pieces.
Double thick old white tee shirt. It holds the finish well and protects my fingers from the heat. It will leave lines if left in one spot, so you need to keep it moving.
Turn on lathe, have tee shirt on finger, apply a small squirt to tee shirt and touch it to the spinning piece. If it flings finish off you added too much. press hard and move it back and forth in a small area to cook it in. You might get a 3-5 applications before that spot on the tee shirt gets hard, move to a new spot.
If you want to know if you are getting it hot enough look for it to gloss up and then stop the lathe and use a clean finger to touch the polish. Is it dry and hard or is it still tacky?
You can apply a little finish directly to the piece wipe it smooth all over and then turn the lathe on and burn it in. But on bigger pieces it will start to dry and doesn't give good results.

Remember, it is friction polish, you need heat and friction to cook of the solvent. Work in small patches, and keep the coats thin, it will blend in easily.

I hope this gets you going in the right direction.

Wes

[Michael Costa]

Thanks Wes. Now I know I used too much. I had the entire mortar slathered in the stuff enough so that I took a step to the side when I turned the lathe on because it went spraying. Lol

[Derek Cohen]

I've used Shellawax for several years, and I would agree that the streaks are likely due to using too much or re-applying it too soon. Only a thin coat is required. Use sparingly.

Shellawax Glow can be mixed with Shellawax Cream as an extender.

Regards from Perth

Derek