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Thread: Logo engrave solidworks --> trotec

  1. #1

    Logo engrave solidworks --> trotec

    New to the forum. Hello all I have found some helpful information on this site but nothing that answers a very specific requirement of mine.

    I am brand new to lasers and know very little about them. I own a small business operating a machine/fab shop. Our products are generally made from aluminum and typically have Type II anodize finish. We need to mark them with our logo and currently use an outside vendor for this process.

    Just ordered a Trotec speedy 360/80watt C02 machine. Should be delivered in a week.

    I am a Solidworks/Autocad guy with no experience with adobe photoshop or Corel or anything like that (prefer to keep it that way). The models of my products have the logo present as a sketch and "CUT" feature in Solidworks. Ideally, I would machine a fixture plate that can be laid on the laser bed so that a multitude of parts could be laid out very quickly and accurately and then use the Assembly drawing of this fixture to actually "print" the markings.

    Does this sound possible? Anyone interested in sharing details on how to do this? Maybe create a new layer within the drawing and use the "hatch" tool to fill the logo outlines with solid color and then somehow ONLY print that layer?

    I'll take some screen shots this evening to try and better explain requirements.

  2. #2

    Photos of plan

    So here are some pics.
    1. Product in Solidworks
    2. Array of product on a machined aluminum fixture plate
    3. machined fixture plate measures 24" x 12" so I made a custom sheet size in solidworks with those same dimensions and located the plate in the upper left corner. Then I created a new "Layer" called ENGRAVE and filled the logo in solid RED color using the hatch tool.
    4. Just a close up of what I did in the above step.

    So am I on the track? Any words of wisdom would be much appreciated.











  3. #3
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    I can’t help with solidworks to engraving but just wanted to point out that you can’t engrave/mark metal with a CO2. You need a fiber laser or you will have to spray them with Cermark or paint/pc and remove the coating.
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  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Trey Tull View Post
    I can’t help with solidworks to engraving but just wanted to point out that you can’t engrave/mark metal with a CO2. You need a fiber laser or you will have to spray them with Cermark or paint/pc and remove the coating.
    Think the OP said they have type II ano finish, which should mark nicely with CO2
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  5. #5
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    it will mark VERY nicely. I have the same exact machine and anodized aluminum is probably the best material for fine detailed engraving. Solid Works is a program I dont have any experience with but surely what you need to do is possible. For areas to engrave fill with solid (rgb)black and red (hairline) is reserved for cutting (useless for aluminum). You don't need to duplicate them on a plate in solidworks, just make one and Print to job control where the object can be duplicated out and saved to a plate. Hope that helps.

  6. #6
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    That would be a very simple job using Corel to create a template and a fixture using acrylic, no need to machine one out of aluminum. Corel has a feature called step and repeat that makes tasks like this extremely simple and very quick. I could create the template and fixture in just a couple of minutes and then cut it out of acrylic in about 3-4 minutes - total setup would be no more than 10 minutes and you would be ready to make parts!

    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Romanousky View Post
    New to the forum. Hello all I have found some helpful information on this site but nothing that answers a very specific requirement of mine.

    I am brand new to lasers and know very little about them. I own a small business operating a machine/fab shop. Our products are generally made from aluminum and typically have Type II anodize finish. We need to mark them with our logo and currently use an outside vendor for this process.

    Just ordered a Trotec speedy 360/80watt C02 machine. Should be delivered in a week.

    I am a Solidworks/Autocad guy with no experience with adobe photoshop or Corel or anything like that (prefer to keep it that way). The models of my products have the logo present as a sketch and "CUT" feature in Solidworks. Ideally, I would machine a fixture plate that can be laid on the laser bed so that a multitude of parts could be laid out very quickly and accurately and then use the Assembly drawing of this fixture to actually "print" the markings.

    Does this sound possible? Anyone interested in sharing details on how to do this? Maybe create a new layer within the drawing and use the "hatch" tool to fill the logo outlines with solid color and then somehow ONLY print that layer?

    I'll take some screen shots this evening to try and better explain requirements.

  7. #7
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    I would guess before ordering a $30,000 machine he would have had a Sample done first. If he designs in Solidworks would not the print driver work in it or he could Export to a DXF.
    Retired Guy- Central Iowa.HVAC/R , Cloudray Galvo Fiber , -Windows 10

  8. #8
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    I would never assume that mostly because I've seen it many times where someone posts about their shiny new machine that won't do what they want it to do because they didn't do any research or were given a sales pitch full of half-truths. I don't know if Solidwords can print to JobControl like you can from Corel, it's likely that it may work but with strange inconsistencies that don't happen with Corel. Exporting to a dxf would work as well but why add in a step when the drawing could be done in Corel in minutes (single-digit minutes).

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill George View Post
    I would guess before ordering a $30,000 machine he would have had a Sample done first. If he designs in Solidworks would not the print driver work in it or he could Export to a DXF.

  9. #9
    Gary has it right. Corel is easy and an acrylic material is perfect for the jig. Here I used 1/4" acrylic, taped 1" ply wood risers to the bottom and ran several thousand whiskey bottle caps, as shown. Every one was perfect. There were two sizes, thus the different holes sizes.

    whiskey.jpg
    Mike Null

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  10. Quote Originally Posted by Mike Null View Post
    Gary has it right. Corel is easy and an acrylic material is perfect for the jig. Here I used 1/4" acrylic, taped 1" ply wood risers to the bottom and ran several thousand whiskey bottle caps, as shown. Every one was perfect. There were two sizes, thus the different holes sizes.

    whiskey.jpg
    Off topic here, but I've had my new Trotec Speedy 400 80W for a few weeks now, figured out quite a bit on my own, have done some jobs already, BUT, I'm struggling with jig layout. Is there any step by step info out there or simplifed explanations on laying out a jig, putting the artwork on it, and aligning the laser to a starting point? I'm not sure why, but I'm making it harder than it probably is. Also, using and understanding plates in JC?

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Garrett View Post
    it will mark VERY nicely. I have the same exact machine and anodized aluminum is probably the best material for fine detailed engraving. Solid Works is a program I dont have any experience with but surely what you need to do is possible. For areas to engrave fill with solid (rgb)black and red (hairline) is reserved for cutting (useless for aluminum). You don't need to duplicate them on a plate in solidworks, just make one and Print to job control where the object can be duplicated out and saved to a plate. Hope that helps.
    Thank you Dave. My vendor uses the same machine and the quality of work is great. I just need to learn to duplicate it.

    The duplication in solidworks is really so I can create the fixture plate. You can't see it but there are many different parts that layup in different ways on the same plate all using press fit dowel pins for location. I can change from one configuration to another and different product arrays show up and drawings are automatically created. It is super fast and easy. I'm trying to explain something you know nothing about as you are trying to explain an easy way of doing something I know nothing about The good news is that it will give me more information to ask the Trotec guy that is coming to install/setup the machine.
    Last edited by Andrew Romanousky; 11-14-2018 at 11:54 AM.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Hair View Post
    That would be a very simple job using Corel to create a template and a fixture using acrylic, no need to machine one out of aluminum. Corel has a feature called step and repeat that makes tasks like this extremely simple and very quick. I could create the template and fixture in just a couple of minutes and then cut it out of acrylic in about 3-4 minutes - total setup would be no more than 10 minutes and you would be ready to make parts!
    Appreciate the suggestion Gary. I like the acrylic idea....looks cool!! I'll look into this but please understand acrylic is completely out of my wheelhouse. Wouldn't know where to buy it let alone how to cut it. I've got Mic 6 laying all over the place and machining this fixture would take sub 10 minutes. Not saying it's a better way to do it but for me it is what we are setup for and would cost me very little time which is what is scarce at the moment.

    I could purchase Corel but regardless howquickly some of you could do this it's going to take me much longer in a newprogram. I already have to put the engraving on the parts in solidworks for proper scale/location so adding Corel would be an additional step regardless.....creating the arrays and drawings in solidworks takes literallyseconds of time. Next step to drawing is only a minute or two.

    Everything we do is done in Solidworks. However, sounds likeall of you guys use Corel, so maybe it would be of some value using the sametools as the laser community is using.


  13. #13
    1/4" acrylic is sold at the big box store or online many places cut it with the laser easy pz.
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  14. #14
    Your work flow should be:

    Solidworks. Flatten the artwork. Export as an EPS file.

    Bring into graphics program of choice (Corel, Illustrator or Inkscape are the most popular)

    Now setup your files for engraving including making sure the fill is right and setting the cut colors for vectoring.

    Do a few tests to make sure your cut will fit. Often a small offset is required. Material can be anything from acrylic to MDF to masonite.

    Once you have the fit right, throw in your sheet good. Cut up the jig. Then do an engraving test at the bottom corner (will show the most error). Once everything is good. Run the job.

    Trying to do this all in Solidworks is probably possible but is likely making your life more complicated. I can tell you from first hand experience it's very typical to bring 3D models and break them down and do the actual machine programing in other programs like Illustrator, Corel, or Inkscape.
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justen Harness View Post
    Off topic here, but I've had my new Trotec Speedy 400 80W for a few weeks now, figured out quite a bit on my own, have done some jobs already, BUT, I'm struggling with jig layout. Is there any step by step info out there or simplifed explanations on laying out a jig, putting the artwork on it, and aligning the laser to a starting point? I'm not sure why, but I'm making it harder than it probably is. Also, using and understanding plates in JC?
    Fixtures are easy, once you know the basics and how to apply it to your specific needs. Plates are also fairly easy, but again, depending on your needs.
    Fixtures will vary depending on what it is you are engraving, how many pieces at a time, and how often you do that part/design. The picture in Mike's post is a perfect example of a simple fixture to engrave lots of small parts.

    If you want to call me it would be much easier to explain over the phone and maybe exchanging a drawing back and forth vs posting here. Message me if you like and I'll give you my number.

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