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Thread: Sharpening planer knives??

  1. #16
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    Jun 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Braun View Post
    So I'm liking some of the ideas on here, but my planer manual (JET JWP 160s) shows a dual angle grind on the blades.. Is this normal? and do you guys use the 2 angles when you sharpen?
    Its very common to have a primary bevel and a secondary bevel. This is how my knives are setup. When you get your knives back from a sharpening service there will be one bevel usually. Hopefully it will be around 40 degrees you can hone a slight second bevel. But be careful when you start going past 45 degrees you run the risk of the bevel striking the wood surface. You need to have some clearance.
    I don’t recommend trying to sharpen Your knives like Williams video.
    Its very easy to add a crown or hollow to a long knife this will make setting them very difficult.
    And maybe the reason so many have problems setting jointer knives and the like.
    Good Luck
    Aj

  2. #17
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    I sharpen my own knives, used to be 10-1/4" for my Inca, now are 14" for my MiniMax. I've done them by hand with Waterstones, with a friable wheel on my RAS, and now with a Grizzly knife grinder. Set up properly, all will give you a flat (within a couple of thousandths which is good enough for me), sharp knife at whatever angle you need. Doing it by hand using stones is the hardest to screw up but will take the longest if you have to deal with a nick.

    FWIW, I found no great improvement in cut quality or time between sharpenings by adding a micro bevel with stones to what I get straight off the grinder, so I no longer do it. I suppose I would do it if I sent my knives out to be sharpened as a way to put it off, but it's faster to regrind a dull knife w/o a micro bevel than one with it.

    John

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by John TenEyck View Post
    I sharpen my own knives, used to be 10-1/4" for my Inca, now are 14" for my MiniMax. I've done them by hand with Waterstones, with a friable wheel on my RAS, and now with a Grizzly knife grinder. Set up properly, all will give you a flat (within a couple of thousandths which is good enough for me), sharp knife at whatever angle you need. Doing it by hand using stones is the hardest to screw up but will take the longest if you have to deal with a nick.

    FWIW, I found no great improvement in cut quality or time between sharpenings by adding a micro bevel with stones to what I get straight off the grinder, so I no longer do it. I suppose I would do it if I sent my knives out to be sharpened as a way to put it off, but it's faster to regrind a dull knife w/o a micro bevel than one with it.

    John
    I've been looking at that Grizzly grinder, how do you like it? Will it do anything besides planer and jointer knives?

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Braun View Post
    I've been looking at that Grizzly grinder, how do you like it? Will it do anything besides planer and jointer knives?
    I like it OK. I bought it at an auction for a really good price not really knowing if I'd use it or whether it would do an acceptable job. Like most things there is a learning curve and the end result depends as much on how you use it as the tool itself. Let me start by saying if you are heavy handed you can blue a knife in a millisecond. Once I learned to set the wheel for whisper thin contact with the knife, and how to pass the knife over the wheel I've been able to get excellent and consistent results. It's by far the fastest way for me to sharpen knives in my shop. I'm sure you can sharpen chisels and hand plane blades on it, too, but I've never used it for that.


    I said I like it OK mostly because the wheel adjustment has a fair amount of slop in it. As long as you move in one direction it's fine, but if you have to go the other way then all bets are off, and you often have to go back and start over. I don't know if other knife grinders suffer a similar problem but it's an annoyance of mine with the Grizzly. Beyond that, it does it's job well. But if I hadn't gotten it for such a good price I doubt I would have bought it. I got equally good results using a sharpening stone on my RAS or doing it by hand with Waterstones. It's just that the grinder does it so much faster than with Waterstones and with less cleanup compared to the RAS.

    John

  5. #20
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    Oct 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matthew Curtis View Post
    Where do you send them out to?
    Matthew, call Woodwerks over in Gahanna. I have them send out my TS blades for sharpening. They might also handle planer blades.
    Brian

    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher

  6. #21
    Send them to Dynamic Saw in Buffalo NY. Got a friends set there now, along with several of my saw blades. 16" knives will fit diagonally in the large flat rate box from USPS. Check out Dynamic's web site.

  7. #22
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    Because of your price limitation, I say send them out, but I use the Tormek with the planer blade attachment. I sharpen the blades for a local charity workshop and the carbide blades are insanely tough to sharpen. The Tormek jig works excellent and sharpens them perfectly straight. As others have said, it is critical to get a perfectly straight edge.

    For smaller jointer blades, I have used a jig with my sharpening stones and it worked well enough. I sure would not want to do it with a 15" planer blade.

  8. Quote Originally Posted by Mike King View Post
    I have never done this, but here is a video of William Ng and his method.

    https://youtu.be/pUoEPgcqUFc

    William is a funny guy! (And he knows his stuff!)

  9. #24
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    It was cheaper for me to just buy new ones. At 50 Cents an inch, a 15 “ set of knives will cost $30 plus shipping both ways. You can get a brand new set for less than $60. But I do sharpen mine with a Dulen type jig and have great results.

    Danp

  10. #25
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    Best way I found was to buy one of these.
    8BCDB3E5-4992-4F27-A992-B74F209B1C57.jpg

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matthew Curtis View Post
    Where do you send them out to?
    http://www.blademfg.com/
    On the west side of Columbus
    All saw blade sharpening in house, has someone in once a week to sharpen planer, jointer knifes and router bits
    VERY VERY HAPPY with blades bought and sharpened from them. Great people to deal with
    go around to Southwest corner, back door for sharpening services
    Some very old machines to CNC machines for sharpening blades
    Ron

  12. #27
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    Feb 2017
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    Northern Illinois
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    The Deulen jig isn't designed to sharpen the entire bevel on the planer knives. It really only takes a tiny amount off the edge of the blades; more like honing a chisel or hand plane blade. It works well with my Dewalt knives but I would probably only resharpen them once or twice before replacing because they are not designed for many resharpenings to start with. With blades like those used in your planer, I would imagine that, after several honings you might want to send them out to be completely resharpened. For those several honings, though, it would save you the money of re-sharpening. I don't see why the jig wouldn't work for these blades though. Even with only several honings, you still would save enough to make it worthwhile, it would seem.

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Sincerbeaux View Post
    Best way I found was to buy one of these.
    8BCDB3E5-4992-4F27-A992-B74F209B1C57.jpg
    And that would cost more than my planer did!

  14. #29
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    Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night

  15. #30
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    Wonderful South Carolina
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    Thank you very much for the video, I keep seeing people saying they use their RAS, but I wasn't understanding how they were doing it. Couple questions for you. Just mount that wheel like a stacked dado? What diameter wheel, and what grit? Anything special about that wheel?
    Thanks.

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