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Thread: Paint and Finish Room

  1. #1

    Paint and Finish Room

    Hi all,

    I'm about to begin construction of a spray booth/paint/finish room in my shop. It will be 12x16 ft in size and will have a storage area above for boxes, household items, etc. I have 12 ft high open trussed ceiling in my shop so I'll have a decent amount of vertical space up to the bottom of the roof in the storage area. The paint room will have one of the 16 ft walls running along an exterior wall of the shop with a window included in the room. I've bought all of the lumber for the framing and will be framing the walls with 2x4x8's 24" OC. The ceiling will be framed with 2x6x12's 16" OC to support the storage loft area above. I plan to use 5/8 OSB as the deck sheathing for the loft. I will sheath the walls with 1/2 drywall both externally and internally. I have some leftover insulation from my apartment build, so I plan to stuff the wall cavities with fiberglass to help with temperature control. I want the room to be as tight as I can reasonably make it.

    Since I have a window to the outside of the building, I'm thinking about a decent exhaust fan/filter combination for that window, which I plan to fabricate. I should also plan on intake air flow either through one of the 2-3' doors (total 6' wide opening) or frame a filter opening through the wall. I don't plan on spraying combustibles in the booth. Mostly water borne finishes and at the most toxic end of the spectrum, Rustoleum oil based. Nothing with isocyanates, so I'm thinking explosion proof fans are not needed. Lighting will be from some florescent lights I culled from my old shop/house.

    I have a budget of 1k for this room and am at the $800 mark in my planning to date.

    Feel free to offer suggestions to make this space better or more useful, keeping in mind the budget aspect.

    Thanks and I'll post pics as progress is made.

    Here is where the room will go in the barn, the red rectangle represents one of the 16' walls that's 8' high.

    paint room wall section.jpg


    20181113_091424.jpg
    Last edited by Jefferey Scott; 11-14-2018 at 12:47 AM. Reason: Add photos
    Jeff

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
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    Lebanon, TN
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    1,719
    Don't forget lighting, plan on having it as brightly lit as possible. I used a couple of $20 4ft LED's, I would probably double that for the planned size of you spray booth.

    For the venting, pass the vented air through a couple of filters to try and catch as much of the overstay as possible. It your venting just stops at that exterior window, it's possible for overspray to exit the window and blow back against the exterior wall, starting to stain or color it with the overspray. I would try and build a shroud for the exhaust that extends a little beyond the window to move the excess overspray as far away as possible. The exhaust filters will catch about 80%-90%.

    I've built two temporary paint booths, just finished my second one this past weekend https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....de-Spray-Booth

    For my first one, I wanted totally enclosed, I used a cheap box fan as the exhaust fan, doing it again, I would probably use 3 cheap box fans. For a permanent setup I would try and mount the fan outside and use a fan with a belt drive, even though you say you don't plan to spray any combustible material.

    For access into the spray booth, I used a cheap screen door, from Home Depot ($32) and covered the screen area with cheap filters. For a permanent setup, I'd probably go with two doors to make it easy to carry larger items in and out.

    For the floor, I bought a couple of packs of the cheapest clip together laminate flooring that would provide a good working floor and keep my exiting garage floor clean. I transferred it from my old paint booth in TX to my new one here in TN.

    This was my first booth, it had to fit under my garage door opener.



    Doing it again, I would have put a couple more exhaust fans and put filters on the whole screen door. The one fan pulled enough air that it worked good keeping the room relatively clear while spraying primer and base coat, 30 seconds of spraying clear coat and I was in a fog for a minute or so. I also wore a complete coverage Tyvek suit and full case shield respirator.


    I used heavy duty plastic sheeting (Home Depot), tucked it under the frame and then duct taped it to the laminate floor to create a seal all around.

    My bike went from this

    to this

  3. #3
    All good tips! The Ducati looks sweet man. Thanks for the reply.
    Jeff

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Kingston, WA
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    61
    Lights! If you want color correctness, the closer the lights are to 100 CRI the more correct they will render objects you are finishing. Most led and inexpensive fluorescent have a cri of around 80. The sun, which is the reference source for what is considered correct colors, would be considered 100. I have phillips fluorescent bulbs in my shop that are cri of 98.

  5. #5
    Since I posted this, I've been thinking more about going ahead and investing in some LED strips rather than use the old florescent lights I have. Y'all have convinced me on the lighting front.
    Jeff

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Tasmania
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    To set the record straight, isocyanates have nothing to do with explosion hazard. They cause asthma-like respiratory problems and you control the hazard by using the correct respirator.

    Solvents and dust are of concern for explosion hazard. If you plan on spraying anything containing hydrocarbon solvents including oil based, explosion proof electrical components are best.

    Spray booth lighting is rarely adequate. Put in all you can afford so that you still have enough when the lights are in need of cleaning.

    It is not too critical to have the equivalent of sunlight if you are making furniture etc that goes indoors in artificial light. It matters more for cars, bikes etc that spend all their time in the sun. Plenty of ordinary light is better than not as much technically correct light. Cheers

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Lomman View Post
    To set the record straight, isocyanates have nothing to do with explosion hazard. They cause asthma-like respiratory problems and you control the hazard by using the correct respirator.

    Solvents and dust are of concern for explosion hazard. If you plan on spraying anything containing hydrocarbon solvents including oil based, explosion proof electrical components are best.

    Spray booth lighting is rarely adequate. Put in all you can afford so that you still have enough when the lights are in need of cleaning.


    It is not too critical to have the equivalent of sunlight if you are making furniture etc that goes indoors in artificial light. It matters more for cars, bikes etc that spend all their time in the sun. Plenty of ordinary light is better than not as much technically correct light. Cheers

    Thanks for the clarification on the iso's Wayne. I did not know this. I have sprayed auto paint before outside with the proper PPE, and it's still nasty stuff. As far as dust, I plan to keep the booth as clean as possible. I agree with you on the lights, can't have too much.

    Has anyone noticed a trend towards hand finishing vs. spray finishing lately? I follow a lot of makers on Instagram that use Rubio Monocoat and other close relatives and hardly any of them spray finish. Not sure if spray is becoming less popular or what.

    What do y'all use for finish and how are you applying?
    Last edited by Jefferey Scott; 11-15-2018 at 7:24 AM.
    Jeff

  8. #8
    Yesterday I managed to mostly build the four walls and get them in place. Still a bit of framing to do on them for the doors and a header to carry the load over the doors. Next weekend I'll work on that and the rafters for the storage loft. Progress.

    20181118_163850.jpg
    Jeff

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
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    Michigan
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    You can save a lot of money and work if you follow Chris's lead and just cover the wall framing with plastic instead of drywall. It will be just as tight, though not insulated. But with a lot of air flow, insulation will not matter. And I love the screen door with filters idea. Once you are done spraying and have left the room you will want to shut off the fan. And you will want to seal the door so any fumes from curing finish don't permeate the barn. another sheet of plastic with some magnets should work.

  10. #10
    Hi Tom, all good ideas, I agree. However, this is going to be a permanent structure and I did budget the money for it. I have changed my mind and am going to sheath the walls with 7/16" OSB. The reason for this is for a little added rigidity and it costs less than drywall. I can also easily attach anything I want to on the inside without hitting a stud. I hate the look of OSB, so on the outside of the room, I'm putting up barn steel panels that will extend above the floor level of the upper loft area and hide some of the clutter of our stored items. After I insulate the walls on the interior, I'll close it up with OSB on the inside and live with it. It's going to get paint on it anyway, so no worries there. I plan to seal every joint with siliconized caulk in my attempt to make it as airtight as I can.

    Here's a couple pics from last weekends progress. I framed a 16x25 filter box opening into the wall across from the window for filtered intake air. Not sure it that's enough surface area, it roughly equals the 20x20 outflow filters in front of the exhaust fan in the window. I can add more if needed, but it would be nice to do it before I start sheathing.

    20181124_080746.jpg

    20181124_080814.jpg
    Jeff

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    Michigan
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    An auto plant spray booth is probably the ultimate design. You might take a tip from them. One of the challenges is getting the overspray out of the booth quickly. It is very hard to control eddies so most plants will not paint a car white right after a red one to avoid making a 'Mary Kay'. (MK was a cosmetic company that rewarded star sales people with a pink car)

    To clear the air, downdraft booths are used. The fresh air is evenly distributed from the ceiling and pulled down thru the floor. This is not practical for your setup but you may get some of the effect if you consider the airflow.

    A car moves thru the booth while several robots spray from all angles. You have the advantage of somewhat controlling where you point your gun. If you can baffle your exhaust and supply to get better control of the overspray it can only help. Cardboard baffles that you hang or put on stands and move to suit the task of the moment could work. Moving your air inflow to a higher level may help and some diffuser vanes also.

  12. #12

    Progress this weekend

    Interior walls sheathed. Added additional 16"x25" air intake port in wall. Barn metal on the exterior of the room is next. Once it is up, you'll be able to see what the entire shop will eventually look like.

    20181202_102849.jpg20181202_103058.jpg20181202_103327.jpg20181202_103216.jpg
    Jeff

  13. #13
    Join Date
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    Looking good, but if those two cut outs are the only intake filter areas, I'd put a few more in the doors. The more air you can flow in, the quicker you'll clear overspray and fumes.

    I under sized the intake filter area on my temporary paint booth. I could fill it with clear overspray in about 30 seconds and it would take 10 minutes to clear.
    Last edited by ChrisA Edwards; 12-03-2018 at 4:16 PM.

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisA Edwards View Post
    Looking good, but if those two cut outs are the only intake filter areas, I'd put a few more in the doors. The more air you can flow in, the quicker you'll clear overspray and fumes.

    I under sized the intake filter area on my temporary paint booth. I could fill it with clear overspray in about 30 seconds and it would take 10 minutes to clear.
    I'll take that under advisement Chris. It's something I can retrofit easily.

    Thanks for following along!

    Jeff
    Jeff

  15. #15
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    Jan 2008
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    1.5 hrs north of San Francisco, CA
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    Dust

    Quote Originally Posted by Jefferey Scott View Post
    Hi all,
    ... and will have a storage area above for boxes, household items, etc. I have 12 ft high open trussed ceiling in my shop so I'll have a decent amount of vertical space up to the bottom of the roof in the storage area.
    ..
    paint room wall section.jpg
    20181113_091424.jpg
    Be cautious about high ceilings, shelves, joists, etc., that can collect dust that's ready to fall on your fresh finish with the smallest disturbance. As an example, integrated circuit fabrication facilities have very low ceilings and no overhead structures for exactly that reason (though the dimensions of concern are different).

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