Best way to join large pieces of wood at 90 degrees?

[Phil Potter]

All,

I am making a wine rack similar to this:



I have made the outer 'shell' (images here: https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....-next-to-inlay), but I am trying to figure out the best way to construct the 'cross' that separate the wine bottles. I am using 1/2 ply made by joining 2x 1/4" luan.

Three options come to mind:

1. Cutting notches half way across each halves of the wood and slotting them together (not sure I like this aesthetically).
2. Cutting small dados (1/8") in one piece and sliding the other parts to form the cross (not sure how easy and readily I can cut a good looking dado (i.e. no tearout) in luan? I do not have a table saw so would need to use a router)
3. Drilling holes through center of one piece and using dowels to slot into cross pieces.

Any other suggestions that would look good, would be easy to construct, and be relatively strong?

Thanks,

Phil

[John K Jordan]

You should be able cut clean dados in luan if you first score through the fibers along both sides before making the cut. Maybe try this first on scrap.

I'd guess the one in the picture was made with option 1 - a quick and simple method that can be strong if the slots are cut well. You can handle tearout on the slots the same way. Either way, glue up the plys first so you'll know the exact thickness. I'd prefer the dados myself as in #2, stronger. (I might bevel the ends to so they would fit nicely into the corners.)

Just curious, why not use red oak for the cross pieces instead of luan since in the thread you referenced the box is made from oak?

[Phil Potter]

John,

Thanks for for the comment. You said:

“Just curious, why not use red oak for the cross pieces instead of luan since in the thread you referenced the box is made from oak?”

Principally for less weight and cost. The sucker is pretty heavy at the moment and I suspect that if all of the cross members were solid 3/4” oak, it would be getting too dense to move easily. Also since most of that this will not visible when stocked with wine bottles, I did not think it was necessary. I am also at the whim of the box box stores for lumber and with no planer, my choices for the middle pieces were limited.

I will practice my dados on the Luan and see how we go.

Thanks,

Phil

[Paul F Franklin]

I made a yarn rack years ago for my wife with multiple cubbies like that. I just used biscuits to join all the pieces. It took some care to get the slots in the right places, but it worked very well and came out looking good.

[Lee Schierer]

I would make a few changes to the design.

First, I would reduce the thickness of the pieces forming the cross to 1/2". Then I would double miter the ends so the fit into the corners of the box with no gaps. I would cut the notches half way on each board to make the cross. With a well aligned table saw and some hand work you should be able to get a tight fitting joint.

[Phil Potter]

Lee and Paul,

Thanks for the advice. I will be using 1/2" ply for the cross pieces and will be mitering the ends to fit the corners. However, since I do not have a table saw, the notching will be tricky and while it ultimately might look OK, I feel I should explore my woodworking skills to make a more skilled joint!

The biscuit idea sounds good but did you use extra wide biscuits to fit across all three pieces of wood? Also, I presume you constructed the cross pieces separately from the outer frame and then slid the wood together. Correct?

Thanks,

Phil

[Paul F Franklin]

I used standard biscuits, but offset them differently on each side so the slots wouldn't intersect or interfere. So, for example, on the bottom half-divider the biscuits might be 2" and 6" from the front edge, while on the top half divider they would be 4" and 8". Just using those numbers as an example, you can use whatever spacing works.

It was a long time ago, but IIRC, I glued up the divider assemblies (I actually made two identical cabinets) first and then wrapped the frame around it. Just take care to keep the divider square or the frame will be a challenge.

Good luck on your project!

[Phil Potter]

I finally finished this wine rack and ended up using straight butt joints reinforced with walnut ‘batons’ that run their entire length. I would have liked to cut the 1/2” walnut dowel in half lengthwise to create a ‘square’ design at the end, but with no table saw and no simple way to do this with a miter, a just left it as is. The inside corner joints between the frame and the cross are tight and I made the butt joint really snug with plenty of Titebond. I think it came out OK.

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Thanks for everyone’s advice and suggestions.