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Thread: Beading

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by steven c newman View Post
    Attachment 397056Attachment 397057
    then add a second bead..
    Attachment 397058
    For this little box, I then split off the lid, by sawing right between the beads
    Attachment 397059
    To make a lid...
    Attachment 397060
    Attachment 397061
    nice. Stanley 45?

  2. #17
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    Yep. Type 20, SW, Roxton Pond, QUE., Canada.

  3. #18
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    Mark; nice choice with the new side bead plane.

    The following shows a 1/2" side bead that I recently reworked its cutting profile.

    The supplied hardness within the steel required annealing before it could be worked with a file.

    (An ability to work the irons profile with a file are commonly found within earlier made molding planes.)

    Stewie;





    Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 11-21-2018 at 8:08 AM.

  4. #19
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    Thanks Stewie. Your pic is not showing up for me❓

  5. #20
    Some 19th century cabinets have a single bead between the two stiles.

    They have a rabbet on each door edge so that one door overlaps the other and securing one door will also hold the other shut. Then to disguise the fact that on the outside one stile would otherwise appear wider than the other, they put a bead on the overlapping door to even things out. It gives the appearance of symmetry.

    Some also have a beads on the out side edges that line up with the hinge knuckles The same can be done with the face frame stiles, mortising the hinge in the frame instead.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Rainey View Post
    Thanks Stewie. Your pic is not showing up for me❓
    Got it - very interesting!

  7. #22
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    Thank you Warren - this gives me plenty of options with my new beading plane.
    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Mickley View Post
    Some 19th century cabinets have a single bead between the two stiles.

    They have a rabbet on each door edge so that one door overlaps the other and securing one door will also hold the other shut. Then to disguise the fact that on the outside one stile would otherwise appear wider than the other, they put a bead on the overlapping door to even things out. It gives the appearance of symmetry.

    Some also have a beads on the out side edges that line up with the hinge knuckles The same can be done with the face frame stiles, mortising the hinge in the frame instead.

  8. #23
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    Something else to try...sometime..
    1 corner.jpg
    Dresses up the outside corners a bit....

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom M King View Post
    Depending on how you want the quirk shaped can also be a determining factor. Beading planes typically have a little flat at the bottom of the quirk, whereas beading tools go down to a point, like old work. The absolute easiest to use is a dedicated beading molding plane, and some of them do take the quirk down to a point. I once had to do some repairs to a 200 year old reeded mantle, and the only tool that would match the quirks was a beading too.
    This is a question as opposed to a statement. I thought that on older work with a sharp quirk was done with a snipes bill and a hollow. The snipes bill would follow a gauge line and the hollow work the bead tracking on the snipes bill cut. This would allow for many sizes to be worked without the need for dedicated beading planes.
    Jim

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by steven c newman View Post
    Something else to try...sometime..
    1 corner.jpg
    Dresses up the outside corners a bit....
    Nice ornamentation Steve.

  11. #26
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    If you look at the cutters for beading tools, and those for combination planes, you will see a difference in the "pointiness" of the small part of the cutter inside the bead. I always thought that the beading cutters for combination planes needed the extra reinforcement because the large, comfortable handle invited the user to put more force behind it than a dedicated molding plane.

    I think most, if not all of my side beading molding planes have the sharp point.

    On the reeded mantle, that I had to replace some parts on, the reeded parts were small squares with the reeding at 45 degree angles. Each small square was oriented in a different direction than it's adjoining neighbor. Sorry, it would take me hours to find a picture, since that job was done over a decade ago. All the quirks went down to a point. I don't believe a Snipe Bill plane took any part of that job.

    The one time I remember using a Snipe Bill plane was in that same early 19th Century house. I had to replace some short pieces of Grecian Ogee with Bead moldings in two different rooms. The rooms were both on the front of the house, on opposite sides of the Passage (what we call a Hall today). One room had that molding that I could match exactly with a molding plane I had. It was also an exact match for one of the Stanley combination plane cutters. That molding in the other room looked like it was made by a plane that came from the same maker that made the molding in the first room, but the part of the cutter that made the quirk had been worn down, for whatever reason, so was nothing like as deep as it was in the room across the Passage.

    I made the matching molding for the shallower quirked kind with hollows, rounds, snipe billed plane, and combination plane for the bead. I could use the combination plane cutter because the extra little flat didn't matter there, and side beaders put the bead right on the edge, which wasn't the case with the Grecian.

    I don't think there is a hard and fast rule for any of it, but believe that a Snipe Billed plane was rarely, if ever, used for production purposes.

  12. #27
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    Shiplapped with Record 778, hand plane beaded 1/2 quarter sawn cherry back completed IMG_7040.jpg

  13. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by James Pallas View Post
    This is a question as opposed to a statement. I thought that on older work with a sharp quirk was done with a snipes bill and a hollow. The snipes bill would follow a gauge line and the hollow work the bead tracking on the snipes bill cut. This would allow for many sizes to be worked without the need for dedicated beading planes.
    Jim
    In general,a carpenter or a joiner would use a moulding plane that would make the complete moulding with a single plane. The reason is that he would be using a plane for many feet of moulding just on one house and maybe many houses.And that moulding has to match up at joints in the moulding on a lon g run.

    A cabinetmaker would be more likely to use hollows and rounds to make a moulding of seven feet or less for a single piece of furniture, and he may have a larger vocabulary of mouldings. Even if it is somewhat more work to build up a moulding in stages with several planes, it is more versatile.

    For restoration work, we often use hollows and rounds to duplicate mouldings that were originally made with a single plane. For one foot of moulding or whatever, it is not worth making a plane that we may never use again.

    For a hobbyist I think some sort of beading plane would be a nice thing. Also although one can make an ogee moulding with hollows and rounds, ogees are used often, and very much easier to make with a dedicated plane.

  14. #29
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    Waiting on the arrival of this MOSELEY Side Bead & Double Reed plane from the u.k.






  15. #30
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    I have the Veritas Small Plow with all of the cutters. It does a great job for beading.

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