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Thread: Vintage Martin T75 restoration

  1. #1096
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    3,225
    Indeed, your restoration is stunning. I admire the tireless pursuit of perfection. It might make me a bit anxious to use the thing, but a machine that looks that good would sure make me smile every time I used it.

    I’m mostly a hand tool hobbyist, restricted by a very small basement space. I’ve been known to create a flaw or more in a project. Some can be fixed very well, others not so much. For example, I was cleaning out some 1/16” grooves for stringing inlay and badly chipped up a piece of adjoining veneer. I spend almost a week trying to make the mess disappear. I suspect my sister (who this was being made for) would never have noticed, but it just drove me crazy. I ended up tossing the entire piece and redoing it. It was admittedly, kind of a “Patrick” moment, thinking about this thread and your restoration. As well as thinking about many of the excellent projects others post.

    I’m glad to hear all is going well and look forward to seeing that Martin up and running. Again, thanks for letting us follow along. And for the inspiration.

  2. #1097
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Western PA
    Posts
    1,245
    JC, $20k?!? Percentage-wise, how much was the original machine versus the restoration? That is an eye popping number, not to mention the man hours involved.

    Agree with everyone else, its one of the cleanest machines ive ever seen, including newly uncrated ones. Certainly the paint job is better than new machines. Superb work. With how busy you are, i cant imagine myself taking things to the extreme that you did, but kudos. With my handful of rehabs, its been belts, bearings, clean and grease, and then start cutting wood. The PM i painted last year was the first machine i painted, and even that was just a wire wheel for 15 mins, primer, paint.

    Question about the machine. In your description of the sliding table support carriage, you say it has unique adjustment fore and aft. Im not a sailor, so i want to clarify that im following you correctly. Does the adjustment tilt the table up and down in its stroke, or does it move it away perpendicular to the blade? I believe the Wadkin PK's sliding table will move left or right--starboard and port-- in relation to the blade for it to take a dado and not chew into the table. Does this martin do the same? Ive never seen that feature talked about before on this or the T-17. Interesting though.

  3. #1098
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,854
    Patrick (Kane), a new Martin slider would sell for several multiples of the $20K that the OP mentioned.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #1099
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Central WI
    Posts
    5,666
    Most T75 had an 8' sliding table vs the 10' or longer that are common now. The sub table can move forward and back so in effect the saw can be used as a traditional rip saw without the table being in the way of the operator. Patrick, does moving the subtable back extend the range of the stroke by allowing some of the stock to hang off the front of the table but still clear the blade, in effect allowing for longer rips of sheet good cuts ? On my Knapp I could attach an additional wooden table to the front of the slider and disable the limit switch to allow for 96" rips on my 81" slider. I'm wondering if something like that is possible with the T75.

    The old short stroke sliders also moved the table sideways to allow for dado blades. The beauty of that system was that the tape reference on both the rip and crosscut fences could remain accurate. The Whitney ( and I believe Greenlee ) table cranked out on screws, the PK and Robinson and others pulled out but you had to be a little careful to not cant the table when doing that. Dave

  5. #1100
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Ouray Colorado
    Posts
    1,400
    Patrick Walsh- we’ve been looking at the bits and pieces but now that it is coming back together it is absolutely stunning!

    Patrick Kane - The T75 was made for several years, the price for this one new was probably in the 6 to 9 thousand dollar range. The carriage movement of the T75 can be adjusted fore and aft by the outrigger support. the sliding table can be adjusted port and starboard to accommodate dado and shaper cutters. The T17 saw is similar but the sliding table is away from the blade with no port and starboard movement. Dado and shaper cutters are easier in this saw but with the disadvantage of not having the sliding table next to the blade. The sliding table can be adjusted on the T17 fore and aft to give about 50” in front of or behind the blade.

    Machine restoration of this level is a labor of love and can never be justified as a good business decision.

  6. #1101
    Thanks you Mark.

    Considering your work I take that as a huge compliment.

    But you are right and that’s exactly why I did it. It will feel like a gift every time I use the machine. Just like special lumber. Being surrounded by nice things that encompass exceptional design and or artistry is nothing if not inspirational. When I’m working in my shop vrs at work working it’s like a giant deep breath all day.





    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Hennebury View Post
    Looks Great! incredible job, incredible amount of work that you have put in, but it sure looks worth it, it will be a pleasure to work on that machine every day you use it. I cant imagine a nicer way to spend a day.

  7. #1102
    Phill

    The saw is far from perfect.

    Man if it was perfect I’d be besides myself and I’m pretty happy now. I can point out something on just about every single piece of the machine that if I was retired and wealthy I would had kept at till it was 100%.

    I don’t say that to sound like a ass as I know it’s very very nice for a saw, completely stupid I’m sure to many and totally impractical.

    I’ll use the machine hard though when need be. Sure the first blemishes will hurt but it will be way more fun to use it. Honestly when I can work alone in my own space I’m very very good to my tools and extremely tidy.

    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Mueller View Post
    Indeed, your restoration is stunning. I admire the tireless pursuit of perfection. It might make me a bit anxious to use the thing, but a machine that looks that good would sure make me smile every time I used it.

    I’m mostly a hand tool hobbyist, restricted by a very small basement space. I’ve been known to create a flaw or more in a project. Some can be fixed very well, others not so much. For example, I was cleaning out some 1/16” grooves for stringing inlay and badly chipped up a piece of adjoining veneer. I spend almost a week trying to make the mess disappear. I suspect my sister (who this was being made for) would never have noticed, but it just drove me crazy. I ended up tossing the entire piece and redoing it. It was admittedly, kind of a “Patrick” moment, thinking about this thread and your restoration. As well as thinking about many of the excellent projects others post.

    I’m glad to hear all is going well and look forward to seeing that Martin up and running. Again, thanks for letting us follow along. And for the inspiration.

  8. #1103
    Both Jim and Joe seem to have responded maybe better than I could have on your questions.

    If Joe is right on the $6-9k number I’d say martins are pretty unreal at holding their value. I’m not sure the exact year but it’s mid to late 70’s to very early 80’s. Considering in 2018 I payed almost $4K for the machine martins really hold their value unlike any other brand.

    Well I don’t know the 2001 t73 at work was purchased in 2018 also for $10k. I’m not sure how much it was in 2001 but my guess is it was not $20k. Point being it has not really held its value as well as say my machine.

    Take into account my $20K number is with A new electrical service and phase converter. For my purposes and in my shop honestly I think this machine was a very smart move on my part. I get eh quality of a new Martin if not even more robust, none of the risk with electronics. Being I won’t ever be trying to pump out huge volumes of work out of my personal home shop but rather I’d be doing the odd side job be it cabinetry or furniture, i think this saw is everything I need.

    And honestly it frees me up form a 5 year loan on a new Martin so I can purchase a t23 shaper when and if I find one or pick up a used but new Martin planer to go with my jointer. I’d also like a sander a lathe and mill and a one of marks Makas. Maybe even a Wadkin mortiser like Brian if I shrink enough as I age.

    I priced a T60C kinda loaded but not loaded and I got a price of like $43-46k.
    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Kane View Post
    JC, $20k?!? Percentage-wise, how much was the original machine versus the restoration? That is an eye popping number, not to mention the man hours involved.

    Agree with everyone else, its one of the cleanest machines ive ever seen, including newly uncrated ones. Certainly the paint job is better than new machines. Superb work. With how busy you are, i cant imagine myself taking things to the extreme that you did, but kudos. With my handful of rehabs, its been belts, bearings, clean and grease, and then start cutting wood. The PM i painted last year was the first machine i painted, and even that was just a wire wheel for 15 mins, primer, paint.

    Question about the machine. In your description of the sliding table support carriage, you say it has unique adjustment fore and aft. Im not a sailor, so i want to clarify that im following you correctly. Does the adjustment tilt the table up and down in its stroke, or does it move it away perpendicular to the blade? I believe the Wadkin PK's sliding table will move left or right--starboard and port-- in relation to the blade for it to take a dado and not chew into the table. Does this martin do the same? Ive never seen that feature talked about before on this or the T-17. Interesting though.

  9. #1104
    Dave you know I’m not sure.

    I’m thinking the three mounting points for the outrigger support arm have to serve a purpose and I would just figure for the reasons you suggested. Now that I think of it I shoulda figured that out before I restored the machine instead of banging around with my thumb in my rear and all this fresh paint.



    Quote Originally Posted by David Kumm View Post
    Most T75 had an 8' sliding table vs the 10' or longer that are common now. The sub table can move forward and back so in effect the saw can be used as a traditional rip saw without the table being in the way of the operator. Patrick, does moving the subtable back extend the range of the stroke by allowing some of the stock to hang off the front of the table but still clear the blade, in effect allowing for longer rips of sheet good cuts ? On my Knapp I could attach an additional wooden table to the front of the slider and disable the limit switch to allow for 96" rips on my 81" slider. I'm wondering if something like that is possible with the T75.



    The old short stroke sliders also moved the table sideways to allow for dado blades. The beauty of that system was that the tape reference on both the rip and crosscut fences could remain accurate. The Whitney ( and I believe Greenlee ) table cranked out on screws, the PK and Robinson and others pulled out but you had to be a little careful to not cant the table when doing that. Dave

  10. #1105
    Thanks joe, I’m pretty much in love.

    I’m never satisfied though and I’d do anything for your t23.

    I can’t believe I couldn’t buy that one that sold near to you last year or whenever it was.

    I couldn’t do it now either. But I’m hunkering down to be ready in the coming year.

    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Calhoon View Post
    Patrick Walsh- we’ve been looking at the bits and pieces but now that it is coming back together it is absolutely stunning!

    Patrick Kane - The T75 was made for several years, the price for this one new was probably in the 6 to 9 thousand dollar range. The carriage movement of the T75 can be adjusted fore and aft by the outrigger support. the sliding table can be adjusted port and starboard to accommodate dado and shaper cutters. The T17 saw is similar but the sliding table is away from the blade with no port and starboard movement. Dado and shaper cutters are easier in this saw but with the disadvantage of not having the sliding table next to the blade. The sliding table can be adjusted on the T17 fore and aft to give about 50” in front of or behind the blade.

    Machine restoration of this level is a labor of love and can never be justified as a good business decision.

  11. #1106
    Not much done today. Well nothing interesting. Lots of prep for getting the cast table in either tomorrow afternoon or Saturday morning.

    Any ideas what these are for?

    04032B97-20B6-41D8-A7E7-4DC389E173A3.jpg

    I had to shuffle around a bunch of crap in my shop yet again. The three bubinga boards where right in the way of where the machine will be assembled.

    Hopefully by Monday everything is in and my shop put back together. I have way to much lumber. I wouldn’t part with it for anything as annoying as it to deal with.

    Underside of the outfeed table is also full to the brim.

    52CF98F3-D4B1-4786-B2F3-AC836BD52155.jpg

    Underside of outfeed table

    E467F378-F8E5-4DC9-AA89-7DE8FB54B792.jpg

    Under the workbench..

    24E70674-9E03-4F4C-8C62-FEA0FCD4DB1D.jpg

    And where my sawstop will go when the dust all settles and long term my second shaper. I have no idea what I’m gonna do with all this lumber?

    8A96ABFC-30B6-448A-A7BA-B81ED57CD87B.jpg

    This isn’t really much stock for a working shop but for my little shop it’s insane. I clearly have a problem. The bubinga was so heavy. Thank god for pallet jacks and a dolly. I could truly barely move the stuff myself.

    To think I still purchase lumber when I see something I just gotta have.

  12. #1107
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Beantown
    Posts
    2,831
    Machines looking good so far!

    I'm just thinking about how much less likely it will be for me to find a T-23 with the sliding table for a reasonable price while your around. When did you say your headed off to see the world again

    Jeff

  13. #1108
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Inkerman, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    1,403
    Patrick, i will give you my address if that lumber is really annoying you.
    My guess on the triangle dohickies is that they are for keeping your tabletop vertical.
    You have so much interesting stuff in your shop i almost forgot to mention that seriously nice looking lump of a workbench that you have there; you will have to give us the story on that. It looks very interesting.

  14. #1109
    Couldn’t help but think of this instantly.

    Doesn’t really apply except for the one line.

    Great song though.

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5cvEVivHVsU

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Duncan View Post
    Machines looking good so far!

    I'm just thinking about how much less likely it will be for me to find a T-23 with the sliding table for a reasonable price while your around. When did you say your headed off to see the world again

    Jeff

  15. #1110
    Easier to just burn it

    You got it on the triangles. Still working out how to stand it up on my my own. I’m hopeful a engine lift will do the trick?

    Question on compressing the spring into the strut. Any idea the exact thickness of the metal plate. I suspect it is hardened. Also any pictures of the shape you cut into it. Once the shim was in did you have confidence you could just leave it sting and not worry about the whole thing letting go. Also any concern of it having slipped out of the press while compressing?

    I ask as I’m off to harbor freight to buy a press tomorrow. But without the shim stock I’m kinda screwed.

    Get this I needed a brass drift today to tend to one last thing with the arbor. I figured harbor freight was a sure thing. Not a chance. So then to Home Depot to get some brass rod stock. Still nothing, guess I’m just gonna have to order a set.

    Oh the bench. I think I have a build thread if you search. That was my first real foray into joinery, mortise/tenon/draw bore.

    I had a hankering to build a traditional Roubo workbench. At about the same time Chris Schwartz and friends were building some benches out of some huge and very old French oak. I just had to have one. I was able to source the “source” of the French oak but it was very expensive and honestly it was what was left over after mother having had the pick of the litter. Instead of the I think $4-5K for the French oak i sourced about 300bf of largely QS 12/4 ash. Some of it came in slab form.

    It was another project that took me a solid year plus to complete. I may have some photos let me go look. It looks like I don’t use it “and I don’t daily” but I do use it. I do however try not to glue anything on it and if I do I put down a piece of tyvek. I feel pretty strong about having a perfectly flat reference surface to build on when building furniture. Cabinets not so much but it does help.

    EE5181B1-2435-4F64-887E-030E109AA6B4.jpg

    B005F434-3C81-40B0-AD5E-A180132E01C5.jpg

    8A4FCBB1-337C-4676-B334-8A8CA616BCE5.jpg

    4B631321-17E5-4089-9832-A7647C9F57FD.jpg

    7187F095-D4F3-4E6A-8B5F-53DAA5D9E8E9.jpg



    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Hennebury View Post
    Patrick, i will give you my address if that lumber is really annoying you.
    My guess on the triangle dohickies is that they are for keeping your tabletop vertical.
    You have so much interesting stuff in your shop i almost forgot to mention that seriously nice looking lump of a workbench that you have there; you will have to give us the story on that. It looks very interesting.
    Last edited by Patrick Walsh; 11-21-2019 at 8:39 PM.

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