Vintage Martin T75 restoration

[peter gagliardi]

My T17 and my current T75. Both early 60’s vintage.- 3276D40A-AC79-4080-BF23-18C3472E5DD1.jpg FCECD27C-C98D-4AAF-A32B-4ECF8642EA9A.jpg
And my T21- FFBF6E93-C041-4C7F-B6A3-6BAE5E8D35E0.jpg
Wish I had a better pic, but you get the idea.
The T17 did get new phenolic balls, they just weren’t on for picture day.

[Patrick Walsh]

Peter,

You really have spent some time mucking about by the looks of it.

Where did you ever find the time. That's like a year and a half of round the clock work if your already working 40-50hr weeks..

Someday I will make it out your way. When my saw is done and the exterior of my house finished..

[Patrick Walsh]

Thanks alit jeff!

Now you have me double guessing the brass

[peter gagliardi]

Probably hens teeth, but I wonder if the older style woudn’t fit your machine, then maybe find a machine that is good for parts salvage.
40-50 hr weeks in my dreams. 70-80 is typical, and has been for about the last 20 years.
Coffee time is over, time to run some moldings.
Moldings are a bit of monotony, BUT, the income is very accurate and predictable.

[Patrick Walsh]

Oh man almost 6pm and your stopping for coffee while most of the rest of the world has eaten dinner.

I know that life well.

As for sourcing another machine well you know I keep thinking if I find another one I’m gonna have a hard time not buying it if only for the spare parts.

I’m not sure what I’m gonna do now about the scale. I’m like Jeff’s idea to have it nickle plated and engraved. I’m just not sure I trust and or know of a engraver whom can do such precision work. Honestly I use a bevel gauge on most saws other than out t73 that digital and accurate. So you know I kinda don’t even need the scale other than to put the machine back the way I found it.

So peter, if you work 80 hrs a week for the last 20 years where did you find the time to restore those three machines?

Do you pay your guys to do it for you or?

Probably hens teeth, but I wonder if the older style woudn’t fit your machine, then maybe find a machine that is good for parts salvage.
40-50 hr weeks in my dreams. 70-80 is typical, and has been for about the last 20 years.
Coffee time is over, time to run some moldings.
Moldings are a bit of monotony, BUT, the income is very accurate and predictable.

[Jeff Duncan]

Oh man almost 6pm and your stopping for coffee while most of the rest of the world has eaten dinner.

I know that life well.

As for sourcing another machine well you know I keep thinking if I find another one I’m gonna have a hard time not buying it if only for the spare parts.

I’m not sure what I’m gonna do now about the scale. I’m like Jeff’s idea to have it nickle plated and engraved. I’m just not sure I trust and or know of a engraver whom can do such precision work. Honestly I use a bevel gauge on most saws other than out t73 that digital and accurate. So you know I kinda don’t even need the scale other than to put the machine back the way I found it.

So peter, if you work 80 hrs a week for the last 20 years where did you find the time to restore those three machines?

Do you pay your guys to do it for you or?

Ok I know I should keep quiet as I'm just going to get myself in trouble but..... how accurate does it need to be? I could be completely wrong but I'm guessing the increments of your saw are somewhat similar to the shapers? In which case the increment for 1/64th of an inch of travel is really pretty large on the wheel. So if you found someone to do just an OK job and the increments were off by a couple thousandths..... would you really notice???

Hmmmm.... now that I think of it a bit more..... an etching tool would probably cost a couple bucks. A little time practicing..... I bet you could do the engraving yourself! Just get a competent machinist to get a nice finish on the wheel and have at it......

Ok I'll go away now

[Patrick Walsh]

Why would you get in trouble,

And why would you go away?

Ok I know I should keep quiet as I'm just going to get myself in trouble but..... how accurate does it need to be? I could be completely wrong but I'm guessing the increments of your saw are somewhat similar to the shapers? In which case the increment for 1/64th of an inch of travel is really pretty large on the wheel. So if you found someone to do just an OK job and the increments were off by a couple thousandths..... would you really notice???

Hmmmm.... now that I think of it a bit more..... an etching tool would probably cost a couple bucks. A little time practicing..... I bet you could do the engraving yourself! Just get a competent machinist to get a nice finish on the wheel and have at it......

Ok I'll go away now

[Patrick Walsh]

The missing pieces I painted this weekend but forgot to take pictures of.

D7B5E125-CE3B-46BF-96FF-BEF2CB22C382.jpg

As you can see I treated these as internal pieces not fill no attention to anything except a paint job that willl last another 40 years.

B7856A1E-FB9E-424E-BCF7-077343F7FA81.jpg

Yesterday’s work. I prepped theses pieces along with a number of trunion pieces that don’t get pint but I forgot to photo.

I’m still in need of the pin spanner to get the arbor apart to change the bearings and remove the rest of that paint. I said I would not strip the internal pieces to bare metal and so far I have not kept doing so. Most of them are very greasy and or covered in sawdust. Fully stripping is really the only way to get all the much off and insure I dint end up with paint adhesion problems.

C8B1198A-B845-4F43-9F87-2EA89F3BCCCB.jpg

I don’t have pictures but I taped off all these pieces and a few more this morning. This evening I went to town on the trunion “round two” it will still need one more session if not two more sessions tomorrow. It should be good tomorrow and if so that’s will conclude the prep on everything but the base and cast iron top.

I also broke out the portable sand blaster today and it’s doesnt work. The last thing I want to do is spend a half day getting the thing working. But you know I never want to hold a needle scaller again so fixing the sand blaster is my only option I guess. Problem is I have no idea what’s wrong with it.

[Martin Wasner]

Problem is I have no idea what’s wrong with it.

First thought is plugged. They're always plugged. Open the valve on the handle and back feed it some air.

[Martin Wasner]

You'll need to empty the hopper first probably.

Are you screening your sand or grit as you're dumping it in?

[Jesse Brown]

Too late now, but for a couple motorcycle projects I had some parts chemically stripped. I found a local place that could dip stuff at least as large as a motorcycle frame. It was less aggressive than sandblasting and easier to clean up.

Anyways, love this thread. Much thanks for taking the time to post lots of pictures!

[Carl Beckett]

I also broke out the portable sand blaster today and it’s doesnt work. The last thing I want to do is spend a half day getting the thing working. But you know I never want to hold a needle scaller again so fixing the sand blaster is my only option I guess. Problem is I have no idea what’s wrong with it.

There is very little to go wrong with these. 1) a clog (debri or clumps due to moisture) 2) lack of air (look for obstructions in the air line, or an air leak) 3) sometimes the nozzle wears and becomes larger opening, but this just drops velocity and shouldnt cause it to quit working entirely) 4) the siphon line has slipped off and become disconnected

You will figure it out in 5 mins. If it is getting air and blowing air, most likely suction line issue (clogs or broken or not down into the sand). If its not getting air - well then, it needs to get air.

[peter gagliardi]

I have had really good luck with cleaning stuff with a product called Purple Power. You can buy it at Walmart in the automotive section in 2 1/2 gallon jugs, or a Tractor supply, or some auto parts stores carry it.
Fill a plastic tote with it, put parts in. Leave a few hours or overnite, pull out and rinse, then paint.
Be careful, as it is a liquid solution of Lye.
It WILL dissolve your skin!
DAMHIKT!
Use gloves.
It will eat away at any oils, greases, most paints, and any organics.
I use it because I am lazy- no time for sandblasting. It works while I am working.

[Jeff Duncan]

Why would you get in trouble,

And why would you go away?

I figured encouraging you to delve even deeper and add maybe another week or more worth of work in that machine....may be pushing just a bit too far

Then again..... maybe you just enjoy the torture

[Patrick Walsh]

Carl,

The machine has been sitting in a damp warehouse for years. I think I need to empty the whole thing and give it a good cleaning.

It’s odd because I took the gun off the hose and the media comes out no problem undear pressure. Put the gun back on and no dice. I do see the tip get clogged but I unscrew that and it just clogs again right away.

You know I was doing this outside and it was freezing and the sun was going down. I think I need to just sit down and tear the machine apart.

.

There is very little to go wrong with these. 1) a clog (debri or clumps due to moisture) 2) lack of air (look for obstructions in the air line, or an air leak) 3) sometimes the nozzle wears and becomes larger opening, but this just drops velocity and shouldnt cause it to quit working entirely) 4) the siphon line has slipped off and become disconnected

You will figure it out in 5 mins. If it is getting air and blowing air, most likely suction line issue (clogs or broken or not down into the sand). If its not getting air - well then, it needs to get air.