Vintage Martin T75 restoration

[Patrick Walsh]

I know nothing about motors, nor do I know where to find a motor shop. I am fully on board to have it tested but had no idea that could damage it so now I don’t know.

I’m pulling it apart to replace the bearings. For all I know there’s nothing wrong with them. But you know I want this saw everything brand new provided I can source parts as good as the original or better.

I’m also pulling it apart to clean, lubricate and paint it properly. I just can’t leave a piece here and there half payed attention to with the degree I have taken other parts of the project to.

I would have a motor shop at least inspect the motor. They can meg it (although the process of megging can actually breakdown insulation.... a judgment call)

But they could re tie any degraded tie offs on the windings. Perhaps a spray coat if appropriate (I tend to do this at a minimum)

And given it’s all apart just put new bearings in it.

Maybe clean up the housing and makenit shiney to match the rest

[michael langman]

Patrick, Take an old small screw driver that will fit into the width of the keyway, and grind it sharp to a chisel point.
Place tip between end of key and bottom of keyway and with small hammer tap the key up and out of keyway.

[michael langman]

I just noticed keyway doesn't go to end of shaft. So, take a pair of vise grips and grab towards end of key tightly, then put another pair of pliars below head of bolt on end of visegrips. Hit these pliars with a hammer to drive key up and out of keyway.

[Joe Calhoon]

On my T23 shaper the key is rounded with a tight rounded end groove to fit so not possible to tap lengthwise.
I struggled with mine. Finally tapping it lightly with a plastic hammer and it just dropped out. Had it in and out several times since.

[Brian Holcombe]

Tap on it on three sides, it’ll come loose.

[David Kumm]

Patrick, when you are in rehab mode, you need to find a good machinist and a good motor guy. There are retired or part time guys or commercial motor shops. Whenever I'm into a rare or expensive and time consuming resto, I have my motor guy open up the motor, inspect it, and usually change bearings. I supply the bearings if the motor is direct drive but let him choose if just motor bearings as in your case. Motor and bearings are much more important than paint choice in my world. You are doing such a good job on the cosmetic part, don't skimp on the mechanicals or electrics. Dave

[Darcy Warner]

I have motors megged all the time, only way to tell if you may have an insulation problem. Honestly, those old motors are bullet proof. Only motors I worry about are the crappy metric frames junk on all the newer Italian machines. Junk after 20 years.

I have 100 year old motors still running like new.

I have a slide hammer with vise grips on the end for stubborn keys like that. New key way stock is cheap.

[Patrick Walsh]

Hmm,

That’s a good though “just hand the motor off to a motor guy” I like doing everything myself but yeah sometimes it’s best to outsource certain aspects of projects.

Now if only I had a motor guy and one that would hand the motor off to me in pieces to prep and paint.

Don’t worry I won’t skimp. The bearings are being replaced. For whatever reason even with my varied background i lasts screw up electrical work. No matter how hard I try marking this wire and that wire taking pictures yada yada I always loose track. I recreated as a child pretty hard so maybe that’s it

This saw is mechanically in such good shaper there really is nothing to do but replace the bearings and maybe the wiring. Honestly the wiring also looks to be a exceptional shape so you know I don’t know if I’ll touch it?

Patrick, when you are in rehab mode, you need to find a good machinist and a good motor guy. There are retired or part time guys or commercial motor shops. Whenever I'm into a rare or expensive and time consuming resto, I have my motor guy open up the motor, inspect it, and usually change bearings. I supply the bearings if the motor is direct drive but let him choose if just motor bearings as in your case. Motor and bearings are much more important than paint choice in my world. You are doing such a good job on the cosmetic part, don't skimp on the mechanicals or electrics. Dave

[Patrick Walsh]

Slide hammer and vise grips. I can’t picture that, could you post a picture.

Where would I source keyway material?

I have motors megged all the time, only way to tell if you may have an insulation problem. Honestly, those old motors are bullet proof. Only motors I worry about are the crappy metric frames junk on all the newer Italian machines. Junk after 20 years.

I have 100 year old motors still running like new.

I have a slide hammer with vise grips on the end for stubborn keys like that. New key way stock is cheap.

[Patrick Walsh]

Like this Darcy?

http://www.toolcoonline.com

[Darcy Warner]

Like this Darcy?

http://www.toolcoonline.com

Yes, exactly like that, although I made my own.

McMaster Carr has every key stock you would need. Probably 8mm key on that.

I used to worry about messing up keys, now if it is all stubborn, the slide hammer comes out and I go get in my drawer of key stock.

[Tom M King]

For electric motor shops, I like the ones where the old guy doing the work is the one who owns the shop. I'm even willing to drive a ways to him.

[Patrick Walsh]

Yeah the guy doing the nickel plating is pushing 90 years.

I have a machinist across the way but he only does Uber small pieces and has no need for one off stuff. He gets huge orders for like 6 million pieces I think related to rivets of some sort.

So yeah I guess I need a machinist also. And maybe sooner than later another plater.

For electric motor shops, I like the ones where the old guy doing the work is the one who owns the shop. I'm even willing to drive a ways to him.

[Patrick Walsh]

Ok question for those in the know.

I don’t know so I’m asking.

I know I wanted to keep every last bolt original on this saw. There is one thing I’d like to replace. I’d like to replace uluminum that tops th sliding carriage. It’s all scratched up and I’m not about to sand it and leave any kind of sanding pattern. Maybe the widebelt idea but Ben that scratch pattern is not what I want then the aluminum is also gonna just shed black duff unless I seal it.

So I’m half thinking trying to source some aluminum sheet stock the same thickness. This is where I start to wonder if I’m asking for trouble. The thickness.

If I could get aluminum sheet stock the same exact thickness would it be flat like machinist flat end to end side to side and and a uniform thickness. If so I could have it anodized and I’d be golden.

If I can’t get a material uniform thickness and flat then it seems to me a deal breaker and I’m just asking for trouble.

Yup some will say why replace it. I say cuz I want this machine 100% as brand new as I can get. Once I get started on something like this I spare no expense and cut no corners. Could I live with it this way, will the new extrusions just get screwed up sure. But if new everything will patina together again.

If I have my way this machine will be like it was just sitting on a pallet unboxed in a climate controlled environment since 1970 something.

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[Jim Becker]

When I was chatting with Brian Holcolmb a week or two ago during his last visit, I mentioned a small project I had to cut a dado insert for my slider (which is capable of it, but I don't want to pay north of $300 for the OEM part). I have one I borrowed from another local woodworker for measuring purposes and plan on buying some aluminum stock. Brian recommended I get material a little thicker and machine both sides to insure I have accurate thickness. From that conversation, I'll interpolate that if you buy aluminum for your idea, it's going to need to be processed for thickness, not just for the shape, etc.