Vintage Martin T75 restoration

[Brian Holcombe]

Probably not seized, it's likely to be a press fit.

Are there any holes around the interior of the pulley?

[Patrick Walsh]

Nope I love looked for a set screw and nothing..

[Brian Holcombe]

Well, in that case you just need a proper puller. The right kind of puller is going to grab this at the bottom of the v-grooves and not exert force on a small area (which will bend the pulley). I'd also set it toward the back of the pulley rather than at the front.

Usually I prefer to pull from the hub if I can.

[Patrick Walsh]

I figured I needed some kind of puller.

And where would I get something like that for just this application.

Is there such a universal tool?

[peter gagliardi]

Motor arbor, you need a “face spanner wrench” i believe.
The inside sprockets might be fastened with a tapered pin? They usually are quite hard to remove. You will need calipers usually to determine the small end, then you can use a punch to get it moving toward the large end/exit.
Mark remembers more about that whole front wheel assembly going in and together.
I just remember needing about six hands, and a decade of patience, but got it together.

[Brian Holcombe]

I figured I needed some kind of puller.

And where would I get something like that for just this application.

Is there such a universal tool?

Yes, there is;

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-679-V-Bel.../dp/B000J1SC8W

[Darcy Warner]

For a few uses, the HF bearing splitter/puller set is a good deal. I have moved on to some really large OTC ones now.
I have one OTC puller with a 36" reach that was over 1500 new.

[Patrick Walsh]

I was able to borrow one.

It will arive on my bench first thing tomorrow morning.

Hopefully it's what I need and works.

Rather not shell out fir yet another tool.

I have purchased more tools to fix a tool lol.

Best excuse for a tool nerd ever..

[Patrick Walsh]

Ok so how the heck do I get the key out without cutting it out and making a new one. I also dont want to destroy it with visegrips or chisels or screwdrivers.

I’m thinking at this point I’m gonna have to cut it and make a new one?

What do others do?

Bet this dust is from 1977, at least some of it?

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This pin how the hell do I get it out?

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[Joe Calhoon]

Key is a tight fit with rounded ends but it will come out easy. Spray some liquid wrench or something similar and let it set for a while.

[Greg Parrish]

Did you try tapping it with a punch and hammer to see if it breaks the bond? The impact around the edges might get it broken free without too much damage to the key.

[Patrick Walsh]

Ever wish someone had told you or you had known to ask the question.

Well I got a good taste of that this week. So all the parts I had primed, filled sanded and ready for polyester. Well they had to be re primed in full with a dust of self etch then the eurithane primer filler.

I went to purchase my polyester and mentioned I had burnt through to bare metal all over whil doing my body filler work. I fully expected this doing filler over primer. I would think that would be obvious to anyone suggesting body filler over primer. Major no no I guess with self etch. I’m crazed with aggravation as it was a Axalta rep himself that told me self etch, seal with primer filler, then bondo, sand, polyester, sealer, finish paint. The intent was to fully seal the metal with a sink based anti corrosive. Well get this and again you dint know till you know “epoxy primer has as much anti corrosion agents or properties as self etch”. Al, I can say to keep my chin up and not going postal on Axalta is now I know, I’ll never make this mistake again, and I have fairly comprehensive understanding of working with autobody paints at this point.

So back on the phone with Axalta another conversation, a million people tons of panic a hug amount o wasted time sulking in circles and this is where I stand. The facts are and for anyone attempting anything like this, if you want to put filler over primer you prime with epoxy as it can be burnt through when sanding and applied to bare metal. It’s mostly about it being a direct to metal product.

So here I am ready for polyester again. So now the parts need to be sanded quick with 320-400 prior to polyester for adhesion purposes, then the polyester blocked to like 400-800. Then the polyester needs a proper sealer over it that gets sanded to 400-800 then my finish paint I’m not sure if it’s one or two coats on the finsh but it does not much matter. What you see below takes about 3-4 per coat to spray. That’s without sanding, masking and prep wash, that’s like anothe 4-5 hrs work.

I’m relatively happy with my filler work. As I expected there are plenty of misses here and there that I planed for the polyester to take care of. I suppose I could spot bondo and spot prime “praying to not burn through to etch” but I’m gonna stick to polyester as I will lay down into all that work and I can simply sand with 400 up to 800 with no fear of breaking through to bare metal.

Get this the poly I’m gonna be spraying is $110 a liter. Crazy, crazy, crazy I know but it’s the suggested product made by the same manufacturer. Yeah why trust them at this point I know but. I guess it can be out on up to 40 mils thick.

Ok pictures and next weekend poly. I hope to get a spanner wrench this week and finish taking apart the rest of the motor and much of the base. Well at least the motor if I can get that pin out. The spanner/pin wrench will probably take a week to arrive. No to mention figuring out the right size and all that. I fully expect sourcing this tool to be a pita as it’s a face pin spanner, metric i imagine in both pin and spacing of pins. I have been looking for just a set of them to little avail. I keep finding adjustable ones but who is to say the pin spacing is right not to mention the adjustable ones look like they will just distort under any kind of force.

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That’s all..

[Patrick Walsh]

Did that..

Key is a tight fit with rounded ends but it will come out easy. Spray some liquid wrench or something similar and let it set for a while.

[Patrick Walsh]

Did this also..

Did you try tapping it with a punch and hammer to see if it breaks the bond? The impact around the edges might get it broken free without too much damage to the key.

[Carl Beckett]

I would have a motor shop at least inspect the motor. They can meg it (although the process of megging can actually breakdown insulation.... a judgment call)

But they could re tie any degraded tie offs on the windings. Perhaps a spray coat if appropriate (I tend to do this at a minimum)

And given it’s all apart just put new bearings in it.

Maybe clean up the housing and makenit shiney to match the rest