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Thread: Vintage Martin T75 restoration

  1. #1321
    No. A 10hp phase perfect will run a 10hp motor. A 20hp a 20hp motor, etc. There is plenty of info on their website, and they speak in terms you can understand if you call. A great product.

    A good setup for a 1 man is to go with the 10hp PP, then run your diust collector off a separate inverter that is single phase in, 3 phase out. If you have machines over 10 hp like a wide belt, you'll need to go larger of course.
    Last edited by joe milana; 12-12-2019 at 8:37 PM.

  2. #1322
    Sadly joe I think I may end up with a wide belt at some point.

    Otherwise my jointer is 7.6 this saw 6.6 I could also end up with a 10-12 hp shaper so..

    Really don’t want to buy that 20hp as I think it’s like $4k but......

    Anyone know how big of a breaker I need to run a 20hp phase perfect? A looked on phase perfects website a while back and don’t remember finding exact info to that question..

    Quote Originally Posted by joe milana View Post
    No. A 10hp phase perfect will run a 10hp motor. A 20hp a 20hp motor, etc. There is plenty of info on their website, and they speak in terms you can understand if you call. A great product.

    A good setup for a 1 man is to go with the 10hp PP, then run your diust collector off a separate inverter that is single phase in, 3 phase out. If you have machines over 10 hp like a wide belt, you'll need to go larger of course.

  3. #1323
    On you shimming the outrigger undercarriage, it is really best to shim the table. Every adjustment can be made on the carriage except rotational. That gets taken care of by shimming the table. You should only have to shim the left end or right end, while facing the handwheel, and equal amounts. No twisting of the main table. That can be taken care of with the carriage. I know you dont want to hear this now, and you might just take a break from it and leave it for now. I know when I got my saw and began the tuning process, I thought it was the most poorly engineered saw I had ever seen! Eventually I had moments of clarity and it all started making sense. It took weeks, maybe months.

  4. #1324
    A 20hp phase perfect would require a 150amp breaker. That's gettin' up there for a residential application!
    The info is on their website. Select phase perfect from products and scroll down. Links to individual models are not highlighted, but will take you to individual models. Scroll down and you will find product downloads.
    Last edited by joe milana; 12-12-2019 at 9:12 PM.

  5. #1325
    150 amp breaker!

    That would mean I need like a 400 amp panel. I don’t even know if such a panel exists. Actually yeah they do, the big stupid fancy 20k sq ft houses I used to work on all had them “I think”.....

    Hmm,

    Looks like I’m gonna get stuck with a 10 hp unit and darned performax or Woodmaster poc....

    In all honestly the 10 hp would take care of all my machinery needs and I could get this all taken care of in the next couple months of so.

    Found a electrician on a job site today “licensed insured” that can pull a permit and do it on the side. Said probably like $3k to upgrade from a 100 to 200 amp service and wire in the phase perfect. I guess code requires it have a knife shutoff and a sub panel of its own.

    I also just read somewhere a thread on this forum that was old.. that at least one of the 20hp models can have a 30amp plug wired to it and plugged directly into 220. Not sure it’s true but I’ll call them tomorrow and find out.



    ,
    Quote Originally Posted by joe milana View Post
    A 20hp phase perfect would require a 150amp breaker. That's gettin' up there for a residential application!
    The info is on their website. Select phase perfect from products and scroll down. Links to individual models are not highlighted, but will take you to individual models. Scroll down and you will find product downloads.

  6. #1326
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    Having to go up from 100 amp anyway, it might not be that much more to go to 400. At least, it's not that much difference here, except mainly for the second of two 200 amp panels. The 400 amp service entrance typically feeds two different 200 amp panels, so one of those could go in your shop. A 200 amp service would be one main panel, but you're still probably going to want a subpanel fed from that anyway, for your shop.

  7. #1327
    Hmmm,

    Good point. The main panel to my house is in my shop now so..

    Your point is 400 service is normally two 200 amp panels. I could just use one for the house and one for the shop.

    Not a bad idea Tom..

    Thank you!


    Quote Originally Posted by Tom M King View Post
    Having to go up from 100 amp anyway, it might not be that much more to go to 400. At least, it's not that much difference here, except mainly for the second of two 200 amp panels. The 400 amp service entrance typically feeds two different 200 amp panels, so one of those could go in your shop. A 200 amp service would be one main panel, but you're still probably going to want a subpanel fed from that anyway, for your shop.

  8. #1328
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    Happy to spend your money.

  9. #1329
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    Central WI
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    You can run a PP on a smaller breaker, it just reduces the output. I run a 30 hp PP on a 175 breaker which maxes out a 200 amp panel but it produces the full 96 three phase amps. The 20 hp could run it's 64 amps off a 125 amp breaker. I have a spare 20 hp unit with a 50 amp welding plug and it runs my 10 hp slider. My 10 hp PP will run my 12 hp WB and the overload capability on the PP is longer than the overload shutoff on the WB. The Dust Collector is on a single phase vfd to save amps on the PP. Dave

  10. #1330
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
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    First post on the forum, but I've been watching this thread enthusiastically (in fact joined the forum because of it), as I also have an old T75 that I've been working on (and off) for the last 7 years. The progress pictures and information in this thread have been exceptionally helpful for me in the event that I get around to working on that saw again. It's a 1975 T75L 10' slider, serial #82742.

    As to your Phase Perfect quandry, I have a slightly older 20hp model (PT-355), and I have no issues whatsoever running it on my meager 100 amp service, as I don't use it to it's full capacity. I bought the PP second hand, and it's been in use for the past 4 years without a single hiccup. I'm very, very happy with it.
    In the 100 amp main panel I'm using an 80 amp breaker to feed power through AWG3 Teck90 cable to an Eaton 100 amp disconnect switch, which energizes the Phase Perfect converter. From there AWG6 to a 3 phase sub panel.
    Mind you, I only use two machines with the PP at any one time, so the amp draw isn't very high. Those being the 5hp Torit cyclone (11.8 amps) and either the 24" Griggio planer (29 amps) or the 25" SCM thickness sander (28.4 amps). Those are of course full load 3 phase amps, and I've found since I installed a digital ammeter, the actual amperage used is less than that.
    Hopefully someday the Martin slider will be operational and also benefit from the clean 3 phase power that the Phase Perfect provides.

    When I bought the converter, I did contact Phase Perfect and asked them specifically if I had to use a huge breaker as they recommend in their literature, but was told that it will work just fine with a smaller breaker, depending on the maximum amps being used by all the 3 phase machines combined. (single phase amps = 3 phase amps x 1.73)
    Having said that, your local electrical codes, electrical contractor and inspector may have differing opinions on this subject, and will likely be insisting on the 150 amp breaker, in the event that the phase converter may someday be utilized to its maximum capacity......

    Keep up the great work Patrick!

  11. #1331
    I have a 10 hp Kay rotary converter on a 60 amp breaker. it is rated to start 10 hp and run 20 hp

  12. #1332
    Spoke with phase perfect today.

    10 hp requires 60 amp breaker to get full capacity out of it.

    20 hp requires 120 amp breaker to get full capacity.

    I guess new just this year the units draw far less power when no in use.

    Other than that the cost difference between 10 and 20 hp is like $2k

    My electrician told me I’ll still be good with just a 200 amp service regardless.

    Sadly I think I’ll go with the 10hp unit. Only thing I really have to check is the hp on a Martin planer. If I go wide belt it will be when I move so ill just eat crow then.

    As is just the phase perfect and electrical upgrade is gonna be a even $7K.

    Like I said I have another $3k being spent on various repairs to this and that on the saw just to cross the finish line. So all in that’s another $10k and a shit load of money to guy that makes $35hr...

    Looks like I’ll be doing some more side work in the new year again..

  13. #1333
    Join Date
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    The wires needed must be like welding cables.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  14. #1334
    For what a 120 amp breaker?

    Just needed out on the Martin planers. Looks like 7.5-11 kw. That’s like 10-15 hp. I think 10 hp is plenty for me on a planer. My jointer is 7.5 and it’s rock solid. The Scmi at work is like 10hp and it’s also solid. I take 1/8 bites all the time.

    Now I gotta have a fire sale of all the crap,I don’t actually use to finish this whole thing up..

    The move in of the Martin jointer will wait till the spring. The acquisition of a planer will happen when my new van is payed off unless I run into some serious money somehow.

    I gotta figure something out so I can snag up the Martin t23 and the Gomad while they are still around. I have a couple offers on my Felder shaper and I could sell my sawstop all my ebony HNT Gordon planes I never use. But getting the shaper and TS out right now is gonna be a pain in the bum bum. And I feel terrible selling the being planes as it was important to the guy that sold them to me that they have a good home.

    But if I hocked all that stuff I could probably swing the phase perfect, the electrical work and one of the two shapers.

    Feels like a lot of effort and I’m tired. Wish I just had the money to spare so I could buy them leave my shop as is till spring and worry about it when I’m excited again. We all wish were wealthy don’t we. Well maybe the wealthy wish for something else lol but who knows maybe not..

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe View Post
    The wires needed must be like welding cables.

  15. #1335
    Did you say 10” slider!!!!!!!!!!!


    I didn’t know Martin made a 10” T75 of this vintage.

    If you ever decide you want to sell that machine please please please give me first dibs.

    But you should finish it if you started.

    I’d kill for that 10’ table though..

    Quote Originally Posted by Gustav Gabor View Post
    First post on the forum, but I've been watching this thread enthusiastically (in fact joined the forum because of it), as I also have an old T75 that I've been working on (and off) for the last 7 years. The progress pictures and information in this thread have been exceptionally helpful for me in the event that I get around to working on that saw again. It's a 1975 T75L 10' slider, serial #82742.

    As to your Phase Perfect quandry, I have a slightly older 20hp model (PT-355), and I have no issues whatsoever running it on my meager 100 amp service, as I don't use it to it's full capacity. I bought the PP second hand, and it's been in use for the past 4 years without a single hiccup. I'm very, very happy with it.
    In the 100 amp main panel I'm using an 80 amp breaker to feed power through AWG3 Teck90 cable to an Eaton 100 amp disconnect switch, which energizes the Phase Perfect converter. From there AWG6 to a 3 phase sub panel.
    Mind you, I only use two machines with the PP at any one time, so the amp draw isn't very high. Those being the 5hp Torit cyclone (11.8 amps) and either the 24" Griggio planer (29 amps) or the 25" SCM thickness sander (28.4 amps). Those are of course full load 3 phase amps, and I've found since I installed a digital ammeter, the actual amperage used is less than that.
    Hopefully someday the Martin slider will be operational and also benefit from the clean 3 phase power that the Phase Perfect provides.

    When I bought the converter, I did contact Phase Perfect and asked them specifically if I had to use a huge breaker as they recommend in their literature, but was told that it will work just fine with a smaller breaker, depending on the maximum amps being used by all the 3 phase machines combined. (single phase amps = 3 phase amps x 1.73)
    Having said that, your local electrical codes, electrical contractor and inspector may have differing opinions on this subject, and will likely be insisting on the 150 amp breaker, in the event that the phase converter may someday be utilized to its maximum capacity......

    Keep up the great work Patrick!

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