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Thread: Vintage Martin T75 restoration

  1. #421
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    Patrick, those look great to me.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  2. #422
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
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    Inkerman, Ontario, Canada
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    You may find some information that will be of help to you on my T17 rebuild pages. https://forum.canadianwoodworking.com/forum/tools/power-tools/vintage-power-tools/1062248-martin-t17-breakdown

  3. #423
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    Feb 2015
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    Mark,

    Thank you, I have actually had your thread oulled up as sopped tab on my computer for months now. It has actually been a huge help. To be quite honest without it I may have never dared think this was a project I was capable of tackling. I would had been more scraped there would be some piece I couldn’t figur3 out how to get apart and or something I was destined to break in the process of tear down and re assembly. So thank you so much for taking the time to document your project as it has been partiellay the imitus for my project and if nothing else some great cliff notes.

    With that said how exactly did you take the motor off the shaft it rotates on. I got the set screw and ring removed on the end of the shaft but I can’t seem to slide the motor off the shaft. The motor is so heavy as you know and I imagine that does not help. My thought is get the motor off so I can access the rest of the pieces I need to access to tear down the internals as to get the top off indipendantly.

    If you have thoughts and can follow my jibberish please please share. In all honestly I have not given it much attention. I just took like 30 minutes to sus the situation out and give removal of the engine a go. When it was not 123 and I got tired I gave up and went home lol..

    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Hennebury View Post
    You may find some information that will be of help to you on my T17 rebuild pages. https://forum.canadianwoodworking.com/forum/tools/power-tools/vintage-power-tools/1062248-martin-t17-breakdown

  4. #424
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    Thank you Brian.

    If those l good to you I suspect you will be floored when you see the finished product. But I guess those parts should,look good as the shear amount of prep I put into stripping them to bare metal if pretty rediculous. If anything it’s a testament to myself as to my will regarding perfection and maybe a little bit of my stupidity.

    .
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe View Post
    Patrick, those look great to me.

  5. #425
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Inkerman, Ontario, Canada
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    293
    The motor just slides off, as i recall.
    SAM_4166.jpgSAM_4175a.jpgSAM_4176.jpgSAM_4180.jpg

  6. #426
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    Jul 2007
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    Inkerman, Ontario, Canada
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    To get the spring back in the tube i put it in the hydraulic press to compress it in the tube, then slipped a metal shim into the slots on the side of the tube. this holds the spring in place until you have it back on the saw, then you can remove it by putting some pressure on the spring and pulling the shim out. The shims have a cut out in the middle. the tube has a slot cut in on either side at the angle of the spring.


    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #427
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    Just progress pictures..

    Anyone thinking about undertaking a project like this be forewarned.

    This is a ton of work “maybe slightly less than i expected” but still a ton of work. If you have a full time job and or are not retired and or like any amount of free time you had best reconsider.

    Now if you don’t sit still well and like be half exhausted at all times then you should probably scour CL for project.

    Spent most of the time I had today to a lot to this project cleaning parts with prepsall and taping all machined surfaces and parts I don’t want paint. Some of these pieces are excruciating the sheer amount of tape required. To be honest I like taping stuff in preparation for paint. I find it kinda relaxing but man o man this machine has six thousand pieces vrs a regular cabinet saw.

    I walked by the base today and thought, great so there she sits stripped back to what a normal cabinet saw consists of. If I was restoring a cabinet saw I would have not even have started at this point. In other words I still have the equivalent of a traditional cabinet saw to restore only with a much larger base.

    64792BDE-82B7-462D-9787-D2041C0B7376.jpg

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    I have use of the spray booth Friday night and all day Saturday. I should have all this primed by end of day Saturday. I still have a few pieces not in the pictures to prep “clean and tape” but for the most part this is everything minus the actual base and it’s guts.

    If that be the case next week I should be able to get everything filled re sanded and then the polyester shot. At that pace I’m like 2 weeks from finish paint for these parts I’d say.

    64792BDE-82B7-462D-9787-D2041C0B7376.jpg

  8. #428
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    Mark.

    I took notice of the flat portion of the shaft prior. What I did not notice was the hole in the shaft for what I imagine would be a set screw.

    Is that hole indeed for a set screw. Also the shaft having a flat spot is counter intuitive to what I would had thought as from what I can tell the motor moves on the shaft as apposed to the whole shaft and motor moving together. I could see why the flat spot and hole for set screw if indeed the whole shaft moved.

    Am I missing something?

    You sell you machine yet. FYI that Robinson is just awesome! It kills me I can have one of everything or at least that Robinson and this saw

    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Hennebury View Post
    The motor just slides off, as i recall.
    SAM_4166.jpgSAM_4175a.jpgSAM_4176.jpgSAM_4180.jpg

  9. #429
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    Jul 2007
    Location
    Inkerman, Ontario, Canada
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    Patrick, no set screw. the motor is free to move on the shaft; the hole and the flat are for grease, i believe.
    I haven't sold my Martin or Robinson. Both are very nice machines. Lots of parts on the Martin

  10. #430
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    I spent most of the week cleaning with prepsal then taping off parts. I’d say over three or four days I spent a good 5-6hrs doing this.

    257CDEB7-04B2-4B07-A34C-545CA96D8595.jpg

    Today I got the etch prime and primer sealer shot on every single piece I have taken off the saw to date. These pieces will all need filler a sand and then the coat of polyester sprayed. Still may stores from finish paint.

    This is the etch. I really like the green of the etch to be honest. In contract to the gray parts I much prefer it. This will not be the final teen it just happened to be the color of the etch primer.

    9562943A-7B83-46AE-BB7B-D01733E90FE4.jpg

    The sliding table before...

    DB24B723-3193-4BB3-8D8E-461AE5E8DE9D.jpg

    Then after and I’m serious need of filler

    9F7B206F-A877-4B81-BB4D-740178E63687.jpg

    The etch goes on in two thin coats as does the the primer/sealer.

    FBD6E07B-218B-4E3A-8A96-E47CF97BB97A.jpg

    Primer/sealer

    FBD6E07B-218B-4E3A-8A96-E47CF97BB97A.jpg

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  11. #431
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    And here is the first box of parts to go off to the plater. They will all be plated in brite nickel.

    I decided to pass on the brass plate as Iím told it wears off fairly easy on parts that get heavy use. I also think the more subtle look may be nice.

    I was also going to plate much of the screws and nuts the factory plated over. I decided that would get to busy. Instead Iíll paint them prior to assembly then be very very careful assembling and probably touch a few up here and there..

    4B6B1C9D-C384-4468-8B3A-7E5F439FCAF7.jpg

  12. #432
    I also dig the green and grey combination. Reminds me of Biesse colors

  13. #433
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    Removed the parts from the spray booth today and got them under normal light. I didn’t have much of any time today but I did skim out part of the outrigger table. Don’t worry I won’t leave the filler on that thick. Most all of that will be sanded off.

    I’ll also do a before and after midway comparison of a couple parts.

    When I get into a personal project it’s just about all I can think about and I want to spend 15hrs a day working on it till it’s done. Sadly I have like four projects going at the same time awaiting this or that. I woke up this morning feeling like I got run over by a bus. I’m not sure if it was all the chemicals from spending a full day in a spray booth with autobody paints or my week spent instLljng cabinetry as I also find Instalation work exhausting.

    My hardware should be in in the next 3-4 weeks for the passage doors I made a few weeks back. I want to get all the above done before then and put back together if possible. I expect the parts off at the platter may hold that up from happening. Still spring will be on its way shortly now and my garden and exterior work on the house will take over. Work is also gonna ramp up very soon and have me chasing maddeningly u realistic deadlines for a good half a year.


    You can see the dust collection port in this picture. I’m gonna try and dig up a stripped version. Pretty much all of these parts after stripping exposed massive amounts of machine marks from the factory’s original prep for paint.

    495DD23A-357A-41A7-91E6-4B63C5711794.jpg

    Stripped with lots of exposed machine marks and flat spots along the radius gallore “not from me” bringing a smooth radius back to the part is the goal. It’s gonna need a bit more work yet. I know well enough about paint to know anything primer shows will be magnified by a bazillion by finish paint.

    DDD89961-AF18-45F8-A77F-C4A5929233FA.jpg

    Then filler and a sand,

    7160E189-2974-4775-94B8-5506C97F11F4.jpg

    And primed but imop still in need of more filler to get a perfect curve free of flat spots.

    D05178C6-4FAE-4634-BB98-FB775FBD59A4.jpg

    9E5F5EC6-98C9-4820-A988-21B131058ECF.jpg
    Last edited by Patrick Walsh; 02-17-2019 at 3:39 PM.

  14. #434
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    The outrigger arm and itís parts.

    Before..
    Sorry no close up picture

    F38754EB-2E3D-4D5D-8677-FB21801423A4.jpg

    Then prepped..

    D34F05C8-049B-431E-AEC5-494C591210E7.jpg

    And primed..

    But again in need of body filler.

    FDDE3739-8601-4A45-BF69-B0ABB8D83B86.jpg

    Then the miter portion of the outrigger table.

    Stripped,

    4FFEFC5A-27FE-47F2-9562-F70472429DE7.jpg

    And primed and filler.

    AC34CE2E-4BEE-47D6-B9DE-1AE6A2BF3AB3.jpg

    These are the parts that the sliding tAble rail mount to and allow for adjustment in relationship to the blade. These parts were in rough shape.

    Before,

    DD0552B3-CCD6-497C-973E-DC4D853C9F3A.jpg

    E715CE2F-5A87-4A0D-8C96-491250974313.jpg

    72F79B8B-761C-412C-BD59-403D2CDA8EE2.jpg

  15. #435
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    Then prepped

    23915ADB-CD33-411E-8F19-3D315EEDDB2F.jpg

    And primed but again in need of much filler,

    4D312127-8288-4410-97D3-1E6E0CDBEC73.jpg

    I’ll be in the field again most of this week so I won’t get a chance to spend a bit of time everyday doing the body work on this stuff. I suppose next weekend I can fill and sand my brains out.

    I’ll order a gun capable of spraying polyester this week. I’m gonna go with a SATAjet unit specific to spraying polyester with a 2.5 tip. I also get the polyester so I’m good to go again after all the bondo work. I know I know many are thinking why on God’s good earth did you not do your body work first. I’ll be honest, I really don’t know other than inexperience and being guided by the paint manufacturer to do it this way. It’s a million steps but hopefully it will pay off in the end.
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