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Thread: Vintage Martin T75 restoration

  1. #1471
    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Walsh View Post
    I’ll try and get a video later but I have no idea how to post one here. I think I have to host it someplace else and I should kinda be in a hockey helmet when online.

    But “DONT TAKE THE SLIDING TABLE APART” unless you absolutely have to. The only reason I would after doing it is if something where broken.

    As I understand it after having it apart is the combination of the half mood end caps and the little steel “things Bolger two per side” that capture the bearings and races and acts as stops.

    So say the sliding table is 8’ and the races top and bottom equal length but say 36” and fully independent of each other top to bottom. Those races can move around the full 8’ length of the top and bottom table and pretty much they land where they land and only stop when they need to based on the half moon stops and little silver brackets.

    Let’s see if I have a picture of the half moon stops and metal brackets?

    Attachment 429857

    There you go. Those two things “half moon plate and metal brackets are all that capture the top and bottom race. The races just travel around I. The upper and bottom guide way falling wherever they feel like falling. I’m not aware of any limit rod or bars other than these stops.

    Taking the table apart is easy. Getting it back together is a royal pita and requires a few guys or gantry some ingenuity and probably a second set of hands.
    Thank you Patrick
    Do I understand you to say that the race moves wherever it wants and top to bottom one may not necessarily need to be aligned vertically with each other to function correctly?

    So when you reassembled your slider there was not a specific place that you set the top and bottom race?

    Any Idea what makes the race stop traveling when it comes in contact with the slide? I am thinking it may be friction. If that is the case one could possibly "tunk" it to move to a spot on the slide to give full range of motion?
    What is the silver disk on the end cap? I do not have that on either end.

  2. #1472
    Sometimes the bearings get out of time on the 75 setup from short strokes, partial strokes, etc. Every so often a firm stroke of the beam back and forth will get them where they need to be, to allow the full stroke.

  3. #1473
    That happens on my Paoloni as well, limiting the stroke length. Fix is as Darcy describes.

    My friend's T75 has a maximum stroke a bit over 96", just enough to split a full sheet of ply w/o clearing the blade at the end. You may need to experiment with the beam and support table locations to achieve that. Not ideal for sheet processing, for sure.

    Patrick, I see that you have a clamp mounted at the forward end of the carriage, without which the extension table could be attached a few inches farther ahead on the carriage allowing a longer effective stroke. Perhaps you could fabricate an extension for mounting the clamp?panel saw jigs 003.jpg
    Last edited by Kevin Jenness; 04-09-2020 at 2:04 PM.

  4. #1474
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Ouray Colorado
    Posts
    942
    Quote Originally Posted by Darcy Warner View Post
    Sometimes the bearings get out of time on the 75 setup from short strokes, partial strokes, etc. Every so often a firm stroke of the beam back and forth will get them where they need to be, to allow the full stroke.
    Thats what I remember from my 75. We cut a lot of 8’ sheets on that and seems like I could get 100”. Hard to remember.

  5. #1475
    This is exactly what I was trying to explain.

    Just give it a good shove but carefully.

    You will know when you can’t shove anymore.

    And yes this does make for more or less travel at one side of the stroke vrs the other..


    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Calhoon View Post
    Thats what I remember from my 75. We cut a lot of 8’ sheets on that and seems like I could get 100”. Hard to remember.

  6. #1476
    Kevin.

    I actually measured last night with no clamps on.

    I did not however take into account stroke I just measured the table with fence mounted then got by the ass end of the blade.

    I bet with a wee adjusting “my support arm is with Brian in Jersey” so I can experiment that I can get the 97-100.

    But not past the leading edge of the blade sadly.. and not with clamps.

    As you suggested I’m gonna machine up extensions for my air claps at either end at some point..

  7. #1477
    Okay... I want to be sure I am tracking with everyone's' suggestions. The shove you're talking about would be when the stops are engaged (against the retainer ) and the table will no longer move freely in the direction you are pushing? At that point give the shove.... In my case the retainers both top and bottom are offset toward the operator side of the saw by about 20 inches.

  8. #1478
    I dont know what these retainers you are talking about are.

    Im gonna pm you my cell phone number. Call me and I’ll FaceTime you back or text you a video.

    Sound good?




    Quote Originally Posted by Fredrick Dornan View Post
    Okay... I want to be sure I am tracking with everyone's' suggestions. The shove you're talking about would be when the stops are engaged (against the retainer ) and the table will no longer move freely in the direction you are pushing? At that point give the shove.... In my case the retainers both top and bottom are offset toward the operator side of the saw by about 20 inches.

  9. #1479
    Whew ,the shove trick worked. I am really relieved that it was not more involved than that. Thank you all for prescribing the fix. I now have 110.5 inches of front to back travel to the center of the arbor Can anyone tell me what the 2 items pictured are forthumbnail (1).jpg on the T75 saw?

  10. #1480
    One on the left is for those oil hoses we talked about.

    It bolts to the underside of the saw from the inside and the hose go through the hole. Just keeps the away from spinning stuff.

    That other piece is a mystery so clearly I’m issuing a part lol..

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