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Thread: Vintage Martin T75 restoration

  1. #796
    Patrick. Did you try evaporust? If not, you could stack a couple paper towels over one of the stains, saturate them with evaporust, cover them with saran wrap & tape the perimeter of the wrap to seal it. Let it sit over night, and see what you get the next day. If you get any improvement, you could make a vat large enough to soak the entire top. A plywood frame with 6 mil plastic liner works great. Heed the temperature warnings on the evaporust. It matters! Use a space heater if necessary. Good luck with it.

  2. #797
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Ouray Colorado
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    1,392
    Clean it best you can and use it. I think sending out for planing is asking for trouble. My new used Hofmann shaper with planed table had a lot of stains and spots. I worked them out with scotchbrite and WD. Had a lot of shinny spots but after about 40 hrs of use and constant waxing the table looks good. To my eyes anyway.

  3. #798
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Woodstock, VA
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    1,006
    Just image the horror of sending out that top only to have it get buggered up! Or dropped from a forklift. Or???? It's not like you can replace it.
    Anyways, you're gonna need at least one aspect of the machine like that otherwise nobody will believe it's an old machine!! 😁

  4. #799
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Goleta / Santa Barbara
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    962
    Patrick, i admire your effort, your attention to detail, BUT as to the top i agree with Joe. Use it and don’t risk sending it out.

    When that baby is put together, ain’t no one gonna be looking at the spots on the table top.

    Just my humble opinion; your mileage may vary, Yada, yada, yada.

  5. #800
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
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    Princeton, NJ
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    That table is fine, I agree with Joe also. Wax it and use it.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  6. #801
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Inkerman, Ontario, Canada
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    1,389
    Machines show up at my place in pretty rough shape sometimes.


    01-1-actual (5).jpg02-SAM_4564.jpg03-SAM_4562.jpg04-SAM_4568.jpg05-SAM_4569.jpg06-SAM_4571.jpg

  7. #802
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Inkerman, Ontario, Canada
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    I sandblast them, then wire brush, lap them with a Japanese water stone soaked in paint thinner, to remove any nicks, then coat with boiled linseed oil and turps. It does a pretty good job all things considered.
    I don't like sending stuff out to get machined if i don't have too, way too stressful, worrying about it getting messed up, and stuff gets messed up more times than not.
    I certainly wouldn't send that top out.

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  8. #803
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,685
    While I can appreciate the "anal discomfort' that those stains are providing, I agree with the others that it's probably best to use as-is. There is risk with having the top planed including changing the relationship between the table top and the slider top, height wise, and having to deal with that accordingly.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #804
    Holly hell Mark that is just amazing.

    I was pretty much resigned to waxing the table and moving forward before I said boo about it. That was mostly due to complete defeat the result of nearly if not more than a full eight hour day scrubbing carefully to conclude that the stains are etched into the tables lower than the ribs and to remove the stains I’d have to be willing to either have the table planed, ground or use Marks process of sand blast and wet stone. Honestly I’m not the the type to ever succumb to defeat “I just try harder/work harder/keep going” but you know I realize I could screw up a perfectly good machine and after all these hours and you know about 8-9K spent at this point.

    So stains it is...

    UNLESS MARK CAN WALK ME THROUGH THE SANDBLAST WET STONE THING AND I CAN 100% not bleep up..

    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Hennebury View Post
    I sandblast them, then wire brush, lap them with a Japanese water stone soaked in paint thinner, to remove any nicks, then coat with boiled linseed oil and turps. It does a pretty good job all things considered.
    I don't like sending stuff out to get machined if i don't have too, way too stressful, worrying about it getting messed up, and stuff gets messed up more times than not.
    I certainly wouldn't send that top out.

    08-SAM_5059.jpg07-SAM_5060.jpg09-SAM_5232.jpg10-SAM_5240.jpg11-SAM_5238.jpg12-SAM_5235.jpg1-SAM_5237.JPG

  10. #805
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Northern Oregon
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    1,820
    I say leave it as is with the stains, but keep the top lightly covered in sawdust at all times
    "Whether you think you can, or you think you can’t - you’re right."
    - Henry Ford

  11. #806
    So today I left the cast top to rest. I think I’m ready to recruit help to flip it over in preparation of a sandblasting festive this weekend.

    As much as I’d like a perfect top like Marks above on that Maka I just don’t think I’m that talented. Well that’s not true but I’m smart enough to know I’m not gonna aquire that kinda perfection my first time and this is not the machine to experiment on. If I was made of $$ “and I’m not even close” or I wouldn’t be doing this, actually I would be more sad maybe lol. Anyway I’d at least try and bribe mark with money to come to the east coast and flatten the table in my shop. I’m also logical enough to understand that will never happen.

    So with the table behind me I moved onto the rip fence. Sandblasting outside has been out of the question the last couple days due to rain.

    I put the rip fence together yesterday but was missing the tow large Allene head screw that hold the tow pieces together. Well not missing but wanting to replace them. Sadly I went the hardware store today and they had the right pitch and thread but the length was off. So for now the old screws will have to do. I’ll order up a few next time I’m bored on the coach “that’s never”...

    I got it all put together this morning and I was just not happy. The aluminum fence extrusion just looked like junk. I had given it zero attention.

    I stared by lapping the top flat. I also lightly touched up the bottom paying very careful attention to keepin it square to the back and factory ground side. Yet again using one Martin to fix another Martin.

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    Still unhappy I took the fence down to the sandblaster and cleaned up the inside. It had a sandcast texture already so I figured no harm in a sandblast texture. Now it’s nice and even, well at least till I use it.

    The fence also has seven tapped holes in the top of it. I’m not sure if that’s original or what but they had no screws in them. I figured they could be used to hold the odd fence assembly and or sacrificial fence on so I went and got screws and washers for them. Pretty much just fence bling go ahead poke fun..

    The uluminum extrusion had a thin wood layer topped with Formica laminated to it. It was really a mess so I contact cemented a fresh piece of metal brushed aluminum laminate over it. I went back and forth with the aluminum or black. Honestly it doesn’t matter as I’ll be making a delrin sacrificial fence that bolts directly onto this fence. Mostly my efforts was just to bring everything up to the same speed.

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    I still have to replace those bearings also. And touch up that bit around the Allen set screw on the side.

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  12. #807
    The lapping photo..

    C734A366-6FCC-440D-ADA0-5A7612A56DAF.jpg

    Also got the electrical box mostly out back together. I suppose I’ll replace the large 600v four wire. I also need to get new screws to hold the face to the back. I can’t decide paint them green or go black. I think to much black will not look good.

    AA0A378C-13A2-425B-967D-779CBFA5DD14.jpg

    And for any of you practicing yogis out there my baby’s in savasana.

    For the non yogis..

    https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shavasana

    She did lots of work now deserves s nice long rest. She will work hard yet again in good time.

  13. #808
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Edmonton, Canada
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    2,479
    This is my daily dose of woodworking forum watch after we put kids to beds. I don't see myself ever spending this amount of time, but I appreciate all the work.
    I just keep thinking this is insane (in a good way!).

  14. #809
    Yeah this is normally the kind of thread I’d look to vicariously get my kicks through also.

    It is a insane amount of work. Guys around the old mill building I work it that themselfs work night and day 24/7 and have for the last 20-30 years have been saying to me “you crazy Pateick, where do,you get your energy, I work 16/7hr day but you work 24/7 literally how do you do it”.

    You know at this point I’m doing 40 hrs building cabinets and another 40 working on this machine. I was thinking about this driving home tonight not even the slightest bit tired thinking I sure hope the boss has 20-30hrs of a week of overtime for me when I’m done with this as I loath and can’t u defat and how people can jsut go home at 3:30 and call it day without loosing their minds.

    But even with that said a change of pace will be nice. Or you know a t21 sliding table could show up and I could keep this party going before o loose momentum..

    Quote Originally Posted by mreza Salav View Post
    This is my daily dose of woodworking forum watch after we put kids to beds. I don't see myself ever spending this amount of time, but I appreciate all the work.
    I just keep thinking this is insane (in a good way!).

  15. #810
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
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    Princeton, NJ
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    Nice work on that aluminum! The fence is shaping up very nicely. I wouldn't bother with a local hardware store, buy from McMaster, it'll arrive in two days and you'll have spares. You can spec out everything exactly.

    Just a nitpick but that's not an extrusion as far as I can see. Given how smooth it is on the interior and that type of supporting sections I think it may be a forging. Martin really does spare no expense.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

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