Vintage Martin T75 restoration

[Patrick Walsh]

Ahh,

So you are referring to the V-Blocks as the tracks the race and bearings travel in.

My bad.

When I took the machine apart I just pulled the top off exposing the bearings in their races “top and bottom” I just let them drop out on the floor and my helper picked them up as they dropped. When the table got to its end my help simply slid it the rest of the way off.

Now I have to consider how to get the bearings and races back in all the while sliding the female upper table over the male lover table.

Probably be pretty easy but like a few aspects of the saw I will not be surprised if it’s a very specific sequence.

Called about the Gomad. Seems like no wiggle room on the price. Gonna go look at it this week. If I do purchase it it’s gonna out I gotta electricity to it and the new saw.

Good news is I got my sawstop hooked back up to power and I think I can easily get just collection run to it without buying anything so I have a functioning shop just as I always have. Point being I don’t have to get the Martin running but I’d like to. On the other hand a fair price on the Gomad might be smart move. Slow and steady wins the race..

Well, I can't remember seeing your pics, and they are buried in this thread. But my saw has adjustment jackscrews along the bottom edge of the sliding carriage- the lower of the two bearing areas. The screws push up against a steel vee block that runs the length that is about 1 1/4" square with a vee milled down one face. The ball race is captured between it and the vee milled into the lower beam.
I do think I remember you have the "new and improved version" of this with replaceable wear strips, so your process will be different it seems.
You did get it off, so.... we know it goes back on.

[Patrick Walsh]

Another productive day. I have not been able to dedicate full days to the saw over the long weekend as I have been repairing some exterior fence that is cemented into a stone wall. I gotta get it done as we are expecting snow tomorrow.

When that was behind me I first got the bubinga and DF moved once and for all. Well till I need it to build with.

It’s all under table height and against the wall. Actually it fits perfect. I’ll move a pit of the lumber above table height to give me a bit more clearance.

Bellow shows what I have for room for the slider. It feels like plenty of room. That wall to the left is coming down regardless.

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Looking back. That red cement pad is where my old boiler was. I’m gonna have to take a cutoff saw and score and snap the pieces back the. Maybe patch the floor a bit. I’ll save that work till spring.

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All my open space. Feels like a football Felix by comparison.

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And a good idea of what the whole shop looks like. Pretty decent for a basement shop.

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I talked to the guy with the Gomad today. I’ll go look at it this week. Then I was contacted via the forum with someone local willing to sell me a old T23. I’d love both but honestly I shouldn’t purchase either right now. And you know if I did purchase either I would bring them to my uncles shop and let them sit till next winter and tear into them. They would be a pretty slick pair of shapers considering the old stuff had really grown on me. I can continue with the plan to drag in my jointer and nest it with a new Martin planer. At that point a lathe an edge sander and a small drum sander like a Woodmaster and I’d be done for the most part.

Ok gotta eat. I’ll get back with a few practical questions on odds and ends repairs and or projects related I could use some advise on.

Oh I used a bottle jack to move the arbor close to 0%. Tomorrow I’ll put in the strut and the motor.

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[Patrick Walsh]

Ok practical question..

This washer or shield goes to the arbor. I feel like the ID is a bit chewed up. It’s defiantly loos on the spindle or arbor.

Can these be sourced from someplace like Mccmaster Carr. Or are they specific to the machine made the manufacturer..

Front

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Back

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The I would like to make a extension table to hang off the backside of the cast table from the pre drilled holes.

I don’t want to make a large out-feed table. I do want this table to be the full width of the wider section of the cast table and a good 18-24” long. I have seen a couple Martin saws where they mount a small box here that acts as a bit of extra support. I want enough that a 4x8’ sheet doesn’t fall to the ground. The unit would be mounted on aigner type mounting rail and it would have 2-3 gib screws to make it complainer with the cast table. Felder sells extension tables like this made of aluminum.

I’d be open to aluminum if I could source a extruded piece in the size I want so long as it is heavy duty like Felders. I once visited a shop looking to purchase a few machines. This gentleman was unreal about his machinery and setup. Honestly I’m not sure he even used his tools to be honest as I sure did not look like it. Anyway he had a number of home made router tables to go with his three Martin shapers. They had tops made of some really fancy pants plastic that looked like corian but I was told it was not.mi can’t remember what he said it was. I do remember he saying it was very expensive. He also used it to make fences for his saws. I’m thinking Delrin but I feel like maybe it was something else.

Regardless I’ll need the material if not extruded aluminum to be very thick as to stay flat.

I know someone will have a great idea for me that is not wood of any form. Wood is not gonna do it for me as it moves gets damaged and is just not what I’m after. I am free something permanent and something that would come with a high end machine not something you would make.

[Brian Holcombe]

I think that depends on wether or not you're going to mount it to the floor and level it out. If yes, then it would be possible to have an independent outfeed, perhaps made out of something neat like an aluminum heavy plate mounted to a welded steel support.

If rather you are going to leave it on a pallet type arrangement so that it can be more readily moved around I would be tempted to simply put an aigner rail and aigner table(s).

On the arbor shield, I have a tumbler for that sort of thing but if you can sandblast or glass bead it, do that. If not, put a crosshatch pattern on it. Doesn't look like it's ready for replacement to me.

[Patrick Walsh]

Saw will stay on a base. It’s actually on my short list to get to making it.

Just today I got my sawstop powered up Nd hooked to dust collection. So game on again..

I want the table to be largish. After working on the huge table of the t73 I’m not keen on wrestling sheet stock back onto the saw after rip cuts. Even the t73 with its toolbox/support table allowed for a 4x8’ sheet to wanna hit the ground..

See silver box and sheer size of cast table. I want/need another 2’ x the width of the table before it makes that jog. I can’t figurebout why Martin did not make the table a square or rectangle. I have seen Martin t75’s the same vintage with square tables.

I guess I got spoiled.

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I think that depends on wether or not you're going to mount it to the floor and level it out. If yes, then it would be possible to have an independent outfeed, perhaps made out of something neat like an aluminum heavy plate mounted to a welded steel support.

If rather you are going to leave it on a pallet type arrangement so that it can be more readily moved around I would be tempted to simply put an aigner rail and aigner table(s).

On the arbor shield, I have a tumbler for that sort of thing but if you can sandblast or glass bead it, do that. If not, put a crosshatch pattern on it. Doesn't look like it's ready for replacement to me.

[Brian Holcombe]

Two aigner tables would do it, look nice and require minimal effort. Probably would only need one for general purpose use and add another when necessary.

[Patrick Walsh]

Your not complicating this enough Brian,,

Two aigner tables would do it, look nice and require minimal effort. Probably would only need one for general purpose use and add another when necessary.

[Brian Holcombe]

Hah! Doing my best but the easiest solution is great here.

[Patrick Walsh]

I’m more thinking something like this.

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/53430153

https://labfurnitureandfumehoods.com...out-laboratory



With either a bracket/metal frame it’s mounted to that then hangs off a aigner bracket or just bolts on to the cast table. It could have fold down legs like the aigner or not.

I know the aigner tables are easy and I may go that route. Or I may not. My tables already have holes drilled in them “I will not be drilling more holes” either the holes line up with a aigner bracket or I have one made.

The ironic thing is I have like one of all sizes and styles of the aigner brackets as I ordered them for my jointer and never mounted them. I kept ordering till I got the one I liked.

Hah! Doing my best but the easiest solution is great here.

[Jeff Duncan]

An Aigner style bracket wouldn't be too hard to fabricate to use those exiting holes. Heck you could even fabricate the tables if you had the time and inclination. I wouldn't let them just hang off though if thats what your thinking, they'd never be strong enough cantilevered. So you'll need something with legs..... if you do copy the tables the adjustable legs are not complicated to copy as well. Or.... you could just buy a couple tables and be done with it

JeffD

[Patrick Walsh]

I was thinking let them hang off as that’s how my Felder planer is And the Martin t73. But you know those tables are maybe 1/3 the size I’m talking.

I think you are both right and I’ll need adjustable height legs. This is why I am asking to stimulate ideas and potential problems and or solutions.

I really need metal working equipment as being limited to wood is starting to be a real pita.

Jeff do you have a good aluminum fabricator local?

Funny I do have two of the aigner tables. One for my shaper one for the outfeed of my jointer.

An Aigner style bracket wouldn't be too hard to fabricate to use those exiting holes. Heck you could even fabricate the tables if you had the time and inclination. I wouldn't let them just hang off though if thats what your thinking, they'd never be strong enough cantilevered. So you'll need something with legs..... if you do copy the tables the adjustable legs are not complicated to copy as well. Or.... you could just buy a couple tables and be done with it

JeffD

[Jim Becker]

Patrick, keep in mind that if you use a "plastic" type material like you propose, you are still going to need sturdy structure under it to support from sagging. These materials also can have a lot of seasonal movement based on temperature, the extent is dependent on the specific formula of the material. So your support structure will also have to accommodate that movement relative to mounting the stuff. I really like Brian's suggestion for the Aigner tables for two reasons. Firstly, as you state, "too simple". More importantly, you can use them on other tools when you have the need for additional support. It's only a matter of having mounting rails on any of those other tools.

[Jeff Duncan]

No, I do have a good welder for steel stuff, but aluminum is something I've usually handled myself. The nice thing with aluminum is you can cut and shape it with woodworking tools and as long as it's non-structural you can glue it using industrial adhesives and the stuff is damned close to being welded. For an outfield table though, I'd want it welded properly. If you already have a pair of Aigner tables try them out for a while. If you like them simply buy a couple more. Or if your intent on building them, use them as a model to get all your parts made up and then have a local welder weld them up.... there's really not much actually welded on them. The one, (and probably only), benefit I see doing this is you can customize length and width making them significantly larger, which would be handy for outfeed tables.

JeffD

[Patrick Walsh]

Jim,

I have two of the tables now and the mounting rails on all my machines. They are awesome just more narrow than I want. You know I just want something more permanent/substantial. But equally well thought out Nd made as the aigner stuff.

I have to admit I have a issue as I’m sure many have figured out at this point. When I get an idea and or want something. I’ll normally go to whatever length needed to get what I want. You know baring being a bad person..

Patrick, keep in mind that if you use a "plastic" type material like you propose, you are still going to need sturdy structure under it to support from sagging. These materials also can have a lot of seasonal movement based on temperature, the extent is dependent on the specific formula of the material. So your support structure will also have to accommodate that movement relative to mounting the stuff. I really like Brian's suggestion for the Aigner tables for two reasons. Firstly, as you state, "too simple". More importantly, you can use them on other tools when you have the need for additional support. It's only a matter of having mounting rails on any of those other tools.

[Brian Holcombe]

If you want something permanent then it’s probably best to mount the machine to the floor, level it and make an outfeed from extruded aluminum sections from 8020.

A pallet will move with the seasons (change height) and will never be level.

Then the outfeed stand gets bolted to the floor and leveled.

I can weld aluminum and yet still prefer bolt together sections in some cases.