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Thread: Vintage Martin T75 restoration

  1. #406
    It’s funny Darcy..

    I get email updates when I have responses to my posts. I noticed you responded and I thought “oh boy he is gonna tell me I told you so” lol...

    Regardless of how I feel it was pretty much mandatory imop that I do what I’m doing. The sliding table needed fixing. I have now found a number of other problems that need addressing. Sure I could have used the saw but sooner than later something would have forced me to repair it. This way I’ll get many many years of reliable service without any worry.

    With that said I think I could take a month off from work and instead spend 50hrs a week on this project and maybe just barely finsh it. If things keep going as they are at work I just might get the opportunity, yikes!

    As for the motor I tried to undo those five bolts first and slip the motor out. It did not want to come and I did not want to force it. It seemed hung up on something. I thought maybe it was the shaft of the motor bolted to the piece the belt runs on. I tried to loosen that also but could not gain enough purchase on the wheel to loosen it either.

    So are you saying I should be able to just take off the five bolts and the motor should slide right out without removing that back plate that the large round shaft carries.


    to
    Quote Originally Posted by Darcy Warner View Post
    I think I warned you that it would be way more work than you ever thought.

    It's a flanged mount motor, loosen belt tension, back out 4 bolts, maybe 5 and slide it out. Pulled several out to fix saw dust pack in the lift screw.
    Last edited by Patrick Walsh; 02-09-2019 at 5:46 PM.

  2. #407
    One of those sections should stay with the rest of the tilt and lift assembly. There is probably a collar or something on the end of the big pivot as well.
    They are heavy an awkward to take out. I used blocks and a board slid under the motor from endbell to pulley.

  3. #408
    Thatmmuch I figured out. It was just that when I cut the two pieces loose I could not wiggle the motor off. I imagined a spindle with a cog indexing something or a spindle with indexing pin or something that if not aligned properly I might break something.

    I’ll give it another go in the morning..

    Thanks for the help..

    My next concern Once the motor is out is going to be how to get the top seratied from the trunion and not having thatnshsft with the spring expose in my face and break me or a cast part.

    Quote Originally Posted by Darcy Warner View Post
    One of those sections should stay with the rest of the tilt and lift assembly. There is probably a collar or something on the end of the big pivot as well.
    They are heavy an awkward to take out. I used blocks and a board slid under the motor from endbell to pulley.

  4. #409
    A couple good pictures of the castings.

    I’ll be honest when I started this project I never imagined I would take the parts down this far.

    I was thinking about this today as I looked over the sea of cast iron parts and thought this project is much like any other project. Once you get started on something there is really only one right way to do something and you either do it the right way or you don’t and make a mess.

    3328B931-8DF2-4901-B55E-66A468E5F89D.jpg

    93143DFC-50F2-4372-BA5F-7F35655E209E.jpg

  5. #410
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Williamstown,ma
    Posts
    996
    When I took my T17 apart- same exact trunnion/raise/lower/tilt setup, I did not need or use any special tools. I did have to scratch my head a bit, to figure out the order, but got it apart.
    The front handwheel certainly has an order, and or a certain part or two that needed lining up as I remember.
    I took the whole top/trunnion/motor assembly up off the base as a unit.

  6. #411
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Williamstown,ma
    Posts
    996
    Pretty sure, if I remember right, that while doing it that way, the spring and tube stayed in the base, while lifting the rest out.
    That was about 8 years ago, so I might be wrong.

  7. #412
    Wow,

    Peter i had no idea you also took your whole saw apart. Can I ask why, did you also restore the whole thing.

    I need to make way out to you come spring. I’m always in such a rush trying to relax when I head your way. Most of the time it’s a day tip to take the dog for a nice walk in the woods. That normally means about 4-5 hours of driving for 2-3 hours of dog walking.

    How things going for you, still chomping at the bit trying to juggle to much work.



    Quote Originally Posted by peter gagliardi View Post
    Pretty sure, if I remember right, that while doing it that way, the spring and tube stayed in the base, while lifting the rest out.
    That was about 8 years ago, so I might be wrong.

  8. #413
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Williamstown,ma
    Posts
    996
    Not all the way apart.
    Just a functional and cosmetic restoration.
    Clean, lube, and paint. Only slider bearings needed replacing.

    Still normal busy, no complaints.

    Here pretty much every day, for now.

    When weather breaks, we have 4200 lineal feet of various Fypon moldings to install on a roof perimeter on the site that we have been working on, along with about 700’ of copper dripedge. Then back to interior while the roofer pounds on the shingles.

  9. #414
    Got a little bit done the last couple days.

    I stared with just a few small pieces for a couple reasons. First I wanted to make sure I had no adhesion issues. I shouldn’t as I’m following strict manufactures instructions like a freak.

    And second I’m using a new to me gun and working with materials i have never used before.

    So far so good although I think I was misdirected when told to put down a etch primer then the required sealer primer writhing 16hrs of the etch and then to fill. To be honest this is what I wanted to do and when I spoke with the rep and or customer service tech at the chemical company i was told it was my best plan of attack.

    I’m fully aware that for eons people have been filling bare metal them prime then paint. My intention and the thought in the chemical companies or paint manufactures part was the self etch is zink based and offered rust protections.

    So what’s the issue, well it’s a isssue I thought up not long after I came up with this whole plan. When I sand my body fill I cut right back through to bare metal in spots. Now I don’t think going over the actual sealer primer with self etch again and the. The primer sealer is a good idea. At this point it’s obvious I’ll be priming again as I expected after my body work. But it’s just seeming stupid to not just do my body work with my fill first then spraynthe self etch then the primer sealer then my polyester then my finish paint.

    Anyway all went pretty well. I suspect this is going to come out pretty nice. The primed pieces are whatnthe parts look like after the self etch and then the eurithane primer sealer. The one piece for the dust collection is me texting the body filler over the primer to see that it sticks. I am having zero adehesion problems with the body filler over the primer so that’s good. I’m pretty sure I’m gonna switch to body fuller first regardless though at this point.

    Sadly I’m in the field installing the rest of the week so I won’t get much done again till the weekend. Hopefully I can get everything prepped for primer “body filler” by weekends end so next week I can get all these parts primed and ready for finish paint. With that behind me I’ll resume with tearing down the machine.

    On a separate but related note I got all the bits and pieces arranged and off to the plater. I’m gonna opt for everything nickel palted. I made this decision with wearability in mind. I also figure the machine will be less busy this way. I was torn and still am as I’d like a hint of brass here and there as I really like it on the rip fence scale. I don’t hink I’ll rgret the de ion I have made though. Nickel plate is pretty sweet looking in of itself.


    Etch primer and the only shot from the booth as I had no mask and just wanted out of there lol.. ok I had a rag tied around my face and yes I’m not very smart.

    D79B129E-C680-40BC-82BB-98B29B41E646.jpg

    With etch and eurithane prime
    04E3170B-9B69-43AD-9FF8-E65F97B30A94.jpg

    338A01C3-87EA-4031-B109-B239A2C00C56.jpg

    Then after work I did a little body full over primer adhesion experiment on the dust collection port. No problems with adhesion but burning through the etch did not make me happy. I knew it would happen so I don’t know what I was thinking putting the body fill on after primer. Well I do know what I was thinking but anyway. The etch will kill a certain amount of left behind rust. Body fill can make left behind rust worse. I figured I’d be treating in whatever rust might be left behind with the etch prime. I don’t think It’s gonna mater either way I go at this point.

    That’s it wish I had more time to spend on this. Nasty chemicals this auto body stuff. No joke, prepsall is maybe the worst I have ever experienced chemical wise.

    994C9F0D-A2A0-4EA5-B566-2708FC777A36.jpg
    Last edited by Patrick Walsh; 02-12-2019 at 9:05 PM.

  10. #415
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,688
    Wow...those parts look great!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  11. #416
    It’s a optical illusion I promise.

    For no filler, no sanding and just me stripping the, to bare metal I agree they look pretty good.

    But if I took a picture of them like you would to show off the finish on a say a table top you’d be horrified.

    Patients on my part though and I think I can get a car quality finish just in a semi gloss vrs a high gloss.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Wow...those parts look great!

  12. #417
    Patrick which paint product system are you using? My restoration friends now all use different manufacturers. Id like to read up a bit on it all again.

  13. #418
    Warren,

    This is the etch..

    6206D51C-268E-4676-B712-9C6C2B45ABBF.jpg

    Then the prime is this,

    https://www.axalta.com/content/dam/N...om-Mix-Eng.pdf

    This will be my finish or top coat..

    https://www.axalta.com/content/dam/N...-Gloss-Eng.pdf

    To be honest warren in the eleventh hour I remembered that my uncle who restores $250-500K cars for fun mentioned his painter using sikkens on all his cars at that sikkens pretty much makes the best auto body paint on the market since it all became waterborn.

    So I went looking for sikkens autobody paint local to me and ran into a brick wall. This was the next top,recommended product to me that at I could get off the shelf and local to me.
    Last edited by Patrick Walsh; 02-12-2019 at 10:20 PM.

  14. #419
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    3,222
    I’ll take your word for it, but have to agree with Jim. Those parts look amazing. That is going to be one very nice looking machine. And I’m with you on the nickel plating; it will look great. You sure you don’t want to air brush some flames on that thing...HA!

  15. #420
    thanks Patrick

    will take a look. Yeah Sikkens is great stuff, so is Glasurit and and and So many good paints. I spent 18 hours with a top guy years ago who water sanded and polished a VW done in Sikkens two years after it was painted. He knew the painter so knew there were two solid clear coats to work with. Came out like a show car though he said it wasnt prepped to be a show car and would have been better.

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