Vintage Martin T75 restoration

[peter gagliardi]

You could make a wood or metal frame, and cover it with a sheet of richlite for an outfeed setup.

[Patrick Walsh]

Never gonna go direct on floor. First I gotta get it down there. Second I’ll never get under it again without screwing my paint.

But the real reason is the floor over there is whacked. And I get the slightest amount of water like every ten years..

I was also thinking 8020

Figure they also have folding legs and adjustable feet and everything. I’d just need to make a bracket for the 8020 to mount to a aigner bracket on my machine.

If you want something permanent then it’s probably best to mount the machine to the floor, level it and make an outfeed from extruded aluminum sections from 8020.

A pallet will move with the seasons (change height) and will never be level.

Then the outfeed stand gets bolted to the floor and leveled.

I can weld aluminum and yet still prefer bolt together sections in some cases.

[Patrick Walsh]

Peter,

How does that material differ from phenolic?

You could make a wood or metal frame, and cover it with a sheet of richlite for an outfeed setup.

[Jim Becker]

Richlite is kewel stuff, Patrick...some guitar builders are now using it for fretboards. It's heavy and dense and makes a hefty work surface.

https://richlite.com/

[Patrick Walsh]

Good day today.

Kinda a head banging annoying day at times.

Got the strut in. It was a royal pita compressing it to be the exact length of the bolt up top and the foot it sits in down low. I didn’t want to over compress it and then when I pull the shim out it snap that cast iron foot off.

Honestly I couldn’t even compress it to much to account for extra slop mounting. When I did the spring became so compressed that the shim would no longer fit in the slot. I ended up using the press and shim. Then adding a ratchet strap to get it exactly where I needed it. I got a couple scratches on the strut banging the shim in and a million times trying to get it compressed the exact 22.25 I needed. Sounds easy but the portion of spring not in the strut and under the shim would release tension making getting a exact 22.25” a nightmare.

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But it’s in. Now I really do have to wait for the hand wheel to be finished to put in the motor or I’ll never get the hand wheel together.

Then the dust port things. Oh man this sucked! I almost lost my poop at one point. I can’t remember who, joe,Peter,mark mentioning this being a real puzzle. Everything about this machine is about sequence. There kinda is in many cases only one sequence and if you botch it you gotta back track.

Back

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Front
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[Patrick Walsh]

I almost stopped here for the day.

Everything else I need to do namely finish the arbor and put the pulley on it. I can’t do without a missing shim washer. I finally measured properly so I can order that tomorrow. With the arbor done I’ll be able to put on the sliding table. Till then I’m kinda dead in the water.

Not being one to really sit on my rear end pretty much ever I decided to see what I could do about evening out the tops of the cast iron tables I had kinda screwed up this summer when I found rust on them and in a panic took a wire wheel to them then just threw some more wax at them.

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Not as perfect as I would like but not bad considering the age of the machine and the stupidity of whomever left cans and or blades sitting on them for what must had been a long time.

[Patrick Walsh]

Again I couldn’t stop and I figured let’s see what we have. I had checked the tables when I purchased the machine. I don’t really remember what I found but I don’t remember finding any problem or I would not had purchased the machine.

Well today that was not the case. They are not terrible but they are not good either. I’m just gonna be thankful this is not a jointer or shaper.

Sliding table edge. Not bad but not great.

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Users right where the joint in the two cast pieces is
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Hump in the table dead middle. Kinda weird but what do I know.

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Hump blade side

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Hump opposite of or right of blade.

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[Patrick Walsh]

On the diagonal one direction.

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On the diagonal the other, yikes!

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I’m not gonna loose my mind over this. I figure Mark will chime in and share his thoughts. The best thing is front to back at the blade things are not to bad. However with that hump I’ll probably have to set my sliding table to it as a-posed to the edge front to back at the blade.

Then I moved onto the rip fence. I had found a major issue yesterday with it. I decided after checking the table I’d best check into the fence and come up with a plan.

Well the extrusion is clearly a mess. You can see it is tapered top top to bottom. Then the laminate I put on it has come loose in the middle creating a bulge kinda like the cast tables.

Front

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Back

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Not sure if this strip is from the factory or someone’s attempt to fix this problem. Whatever the case it’s creating the issue if anything.

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With just a square.

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[Patrick Walsh]

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Without the extrusion. And thank god the fence proper is perfect!

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Because of the way the extrusion attaches to the cast iron fence I can’t just purchase a new aluminum extrusion. As a result I’m left wondering what I will do about this. If I had a guy I could have plane it or whatever that would be my solution but I don’t. I seem to remember Mark running into a similar issue with his fence and bringing to to be repaired only to end up doing it himself in his jointer.

So that’s a day. Now football and ordering those shim washers from McMaster car.

Oh and my pile of AIGNER mounting rails. None of them long enough and none of the holes match what’s already on the machine.

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I still feel like I’m lightyears from being done. Honestly the hand wheel has yet to make it to the plater. I’m actually waiting to hear back from a friend about a guy with a machine that can melt out the rivets used to hold on the scales. Not a chance in hell they can be drilled out. I tried and it didn’t go so well. I bet the hand wheel is not back from the plater for at lead 6-8 yet

[Patrick Walsh]

Jim

I looked it up and found out it’s resin injected paper. What I wonder is how it is better than phenolic for my task?

Richlite is kewel stuff, Patrick...some guitar builders are now using it for fretboards. It's heavy and dense and makes a hefty work surface.

https://richlite.com/

[Brian Holcombe]

Is that straightedge straight? IMO, unless I check a straight edge against a granite standard I don't considering it calibrated.

I am not suggesting the machine goes directly on the floor. I'm suggesting it needs to be mounted in a semi-permanent fashion with bolt-on levelers. As example, McMaster offers precision bolt-on levelers for heavy machinery, they're rated for 20,000lbs ea and lift the machine 7/8" to 2"+. This allows you to level the machine (important for independent outfeed tables) and level and outfeed and not need them to be connected.

[Patrick Walsh]

Well you know I did check it against my jointer I feed and outfeed tables. They say the same thing they did with the Felder techs straightedge form years back. How do I remember, well they have a few dips in places you can’t forget.

I also checked the table with my a high quality level. Are they scientific provably not but with the table being out .005-.0010 OD say the straight edge is at least telling a story I don’t want to read.

So what I want to really hear are opinions on this out of flat table specific to a slider and what I should or should not do about it.

I’ll look at McMaster Carr but if you can without to much trouble link me to these feet.

Yet again this guy don’t in Connecticut I looked at buying some machines from had these very very slick leveling feet on his machines. I think he made them? Hopefully he purchased them at Mccmaster Carr

Leveling feet sound nice I had not thought about them idk why. My mind was stuck on 4x4 and plywood. I was going to make something much nicer mind you. What is under the saw is what was under it when I purchased it.

QUOTE=Brian Holcombe;2970411]Is that straightedge straight? IMO, unless I check a straight edge against a granite standard I don't considering it calibrated.

I am not suggesting the machine goes directly on the floor. I'm suggesting it needs to be mounted in a semi-permanent fashion with bolt-on levelers. As example, McMaster offers precision bolt-on levelers for heavy machinery, they're rated for 20,000lbs ea and lift the machine 7/8" to 2"+. This allows you to level the machine (important for independent outfeed tables) and level and outfeed and not need them to be connected.[/QUOTE]

[Patrick Walsh]

Found them..

Expensive but isn’t everything when you do it right.

I like the round ones better than the wedge style but I think I’ll go wedge?


http://www.motionusa.com.s3-website-...ll_Catalog.pdf

[Brian Holcombe]

The wedge style look awesome, even a bit neater than the ones I found at McMaster. There I found some the adjust with a set of spanner wrenches.

I’m not familiar with the table attachment points but is the table still registering as out if flat when it is loosely attached? If there is a way to check, then check and see if perhaps the mounting can be shimmed.

As example. The rack on the Wadkin had a nice bow to it and was contributing to the tables out of flatness. It wasn’t the entirety of it, by any means, but it had affect.

[Jim Becker]

There may be a cost differential between it and the phenolic, but I don't know.
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On the tables, I wonder if them being off the machine for so long "released some tension" or something if they checked out fine previously. Very strange. Are you using the same reference tools this time as last time?