Vintage Martin T75 restoration

[Brian Holcombe]

The bolts on my my machine were just painted over (not rusty) so I soaked them in acetone and then brushed them with a nylon bristle brush, everything that was undamaged by a wrench came back to life quickly.

If you wire wheel them it takes the oxide coating off and they will rust pretty quickly. I wouldn't do that unless they're really rusty.

[peter gagliardi]

I think you will find, some pieces of bare #12 or #14 copper wire between the strips of steel to be just about the perfect sized spacer.
Also, the underside of the main table should have the casting date formed into, and cast in it.

As a side note, we adjusted the play out of our sliding table today, nice and tight now, for the full length of travel. Just another tweek or two until it is dead on for square. Much easier than I thought.

White was ruined when Jet started using it.

[John Sincerbeaux]

Speaking of paint I’m kinda getting there. At least close enough I’m starting to think color. To date I have been pretty settled on a classic vintage green machinery color. Now seeing the amount of prep work going into all this it has me thinking twice as to exactly what color I really want to paint the machine. I figure after all this work and being I can have whatever color I want I might as well do something exceptional and not just whatever.

I himmed and hawed a bit about going a different color but in the end I feel the machine has a very retro look and bestnto not moderise it with some techno color. Again I’m pretty sold on leaving the machine as it was from the factory and bringing back to life the original brass and chrome plated fishes here and there and maybe adding a few more thatnthe factory did not.

I’m attaching a link to a Harley Davidson I just fell in love with while searching colors. I really really love this green and they have combined it with both polished and mat brass, chrome and nickel. I love that red with it also but that imop would just look silly to incorporate into my project. The pea green though I’m just pretty in love with.

Do others have thoughts on this exact green color and my intention to re plate and maybe play up some of the brass chrome and nickel plated pieces in a subtle way.

http://www.l-l-choppers.com/ll-photo...mitri/?lang=en

Hello Patrick,
I have been following this thread for a while. As for paint, I would spare no expense on the prep, and materials to do your machine right. You have come this far, kill the paint job.
As far as color, I usually like staying original on old classic machines. To me, the benchmark for tablesaw restores would be Jack Forsburg’s Wadkin PK. Gun Metal/graphite, red accents and lots of polished metal. Like you, I love green. My Northfield HD 16 jointer is my fav green. However, not a huge fan of the original Martin green.
Since you like motorcycles with custom paint...... thought you might like my BigDog Mastiff with custom candy red paint and LOTS of chrome��B8D75BA5-E262-41F7-85D7-C6C524F78E53.jpg

[Patrick Walsh]

Well Brian,

A day late and a dollar short.

I have been taking a wire brush to all the hardware for weeks now. The black coating on the Allen screws just melts off. Sadly most of the hardware is of was covered in way more rust than I will allow on the finished machine. Actually zero rust will be allowed in this machine when done. This is way to much work to play with that kind of fire.

I actually made some calls today to electro platers. I got a education to say the least. I did not know what I did not know. It seems not all metal can be plated. A starting point is knowing first what the exact alloy is. I guess the risk is melting the part. So we will see, the next step is to spend half a day carting my pieces to anplater to find out what can me can not be done. The other concern and one I figured out on my own is when playing nuts and bolts the thread size changing and thus having to be tended to in some way.

I suggested not playing the threaded portions of things and that is doable however offers not corosive protection for much of the length of the fasteners. Many of the bolts I wantnplated actually thread into cast pieces that don’t even have nuts. Taping all this stuff to fit my plated hardware sounds like a nightmare.

I’m not sure exactly what I’m going to do at this point. Hopefully I can figure a way tomplate the pieces I want played for bling factor. If I have to replace hardware with new hardware to insure it does not rust I guess so be it but I’d rather not.

I’m reading up on oil bluing options as well but I’m fearful that may present simular problems as the plating. It would be nice is I could handle this part myself also. Imuspedt getting setup to plate with brass and nickel is not very realistic.

is

The bolts on my my machine were just painted over (not rusty) so I soaked them in acetone and then brushed them with a nylon bristle brush, everything that was undamaged by a wrench came back to life quickly.

If you wire wheel them it takes the oxide coating off and they will rust pretty quickly. I wouldn't do that unless they're really rusty.

[Patrick Walsh]

Peter,

You finsh getting the saw adjusted today?

I was able to glue up my extensions. I’ll post pictures later.

I agree jet ruined white like Laguna ruined black.

Im just gonna stick with the factory green. I just need to find and save a piece that was not exposed to UV damage and have it color matched.

I think you will find, some pieces of bare #12 or #14 copper wire between the strips of steel to be just about the perfect sized spacer.
Also, the underside of the main table should have the casting date formed into, and cast in it.


As a side note, we adjusted the play out of our sliding table today, nice and tight now, for the full length of travel. Just another tweek or two until it is dead on for square. Much easier than I thought.

White was ruined when Jet started using it.

[Patrick Walsh]

John,

I’m gonna go all out on the paint. Materials gun prep you name it. I suspect the pile of parts I have almost ready for prime right know will take a month or a half day here and there and hour her and a hour there. So you know like 40-50hrs just sanding and filling sanding without even shooting the polyester. Once the polyester is sprayed I bet I still have a good day or more just sanding.

I agree jacks saw is perfect. I even love the colors. I assumed the color combo was not original though. To be hie st his succces choosing color is in part my point in not just going same old same old green. However I am a purist myself and green it’s gonna be. I have to decide not on industrial polyurithane finish coat or the traditional base coats followed by clear and cut polish till perfection.

If I go the auto body route with clear coats I’m gonna be in for it cutting the clear and buffing six zillions tiny parts. I like the idea of the ocd nature of that and the finished product. I’m just not sure how well it might hold up vrs the industrial polyurithane finish.

FYI I’m not much a motorcycle guy “they make way to much noise for me” but from a creativity and craftsmanship standpoint every once in a while a bike will catch my eye and take my attention enough I find myself almost wanting to build one.

I feel the same about sodden stringed instruments though “ie a viola or a violin” and the sound produced is much ,ore my speed. I would love to build both someday to be honest. A bike and a violin...

I hope I can live up to this auto paint finish thing. I used to be able to lay down a very nice coat of satin impervious with a hvlp gun and pressure pot back in the day. I guess we will see....

By the way sweet bike. You really have all the toys don’t you. You must work hard!

Hello Patrick,
I have been following this thread for a while. As for paint, I would spare no expense on the prep, and materials to do your machine right. You have come this far, kill the paint job.
As far as color, I usually like staying original on old classic machines. To me, the benchmark for tablesaw restores would be Jack Forsburg’s Wadkin PK. Gun Metal/graphite, red accents and lots of polished metal. Like you, I love green. My Northfield HD 16 jointer is my fav green. However, not a huge fan of the original Martin green.
Since you like motorcycles with custom paint...... thought you might like my BigDog Mastiff with custom candy red paint and LOTS of chrome��B8D75BA5-E262-41F7-85D7-C6C524F78E53.jpg

[Patrick Walsh]

I got in a good half day today. I woke up feeling very sick, slightly nauseous a head ache and back ache.

Works been slow, 40hrs the boss finding us busy work as the six months of back logged work we have can not be started as the various details just can’t seem to be worked out. You gotta love building custom cabinets for a living. So many cooks in the kitchen. You have the home owner, then the architect, then the decorator then the builder, then the cabinet maker. It’s really a crappy way to make a living imop if you a business man.

Anyway I called it day at noon. I just couldn’t bring myself to go home and sit on the couch. I can do that Saturday and Sunday morning for like 45 min while I drink my coffee and then I go nuts.

I stopped at the home center and got myself tow more gallons of rust remover and a pile of wore brushes and blue tape in preparation of masking everything off for primer. Wishful thinking on the masking I know.

I had a few pieces large enough I needed to soak them in a five gallon bucket hence the tow gallons of rust remover to add to the two I already have.

I went though all the parts I have had prepped to date and soaked and wire brushed the ones with rust remaining. I’m all caught up at this point on prep for all these parts. I also went through all the hardware that was soaking and gave it all a wire brush and removed it all from their baths. Man my wrist hurts for sitting there with a wire brush and million nuts and bolts. It’s done though and now I just have to figure out how I’m going to give them a protective corrosion coating as I scrubbed what was on them all off with all the rust.

Oh and I also glued the tracks for the sliding table back to the extrusion they are housed within. The part is still in clamps and it’s all I can do to wait to take it out of clamps. It’s gonna be like freaking Christmas morning tomorrow rushing to the shop for the big revail..

Some of the nuts and bolts.

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All tucked in for safe keeping. I have piles more but they are pretty boring little bits and pieces.

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The extrusion the bearings travel on. Let’s pray they are glued in just so! If not I have no idea how one world ever reverse this glue? I suspect it could be done though...

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These are pretty slick. They are the internal piece to the mounts the sliding table mounts to. They allow the sliding table to move back and forth in relationship to the blade for a dado stack. They were a real mess as there are grease fittings on either side of the bolt for oil. Before I got to scrubbing these pieces were a nasty combination of oil and rust.

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Not anymore!

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This is a good example of how clean I have stripped all the parts. I’m pretty sure that jsut cast iron at this point the way it came out the cast 30-40 years ago..

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[peter gagliardi]

Peter,

You finsh getting the saw adjusted today?

Patrick,
No, actually, my Crazy Horse Dolly stuff came in, and i took a few hours to put it together and use it.
Impressively stupid simple, but what a time and backsaver!
Busted up about a dozen sheets, never lifted more than about 1/3 of a sheet!
Really a great addition to a shop.

[Warren Lake]

likely be the one from Gibbard

qq.JPG

[Brian Holcombe]

If you replace it with stainless just be mindful of the grade. Stainless is rarely spec’s because typical stainless fasteners are rated at about 70,000 psi tensile strength. If you spend for Burmax 88 you can get 110,000 psi which is more inline with the high strength steel fasteners typically found in machinery on the low end, really need Burmax 109 to be a true high strength fastener, they’re probably $6-8/bolt.

[Patrick Walsh]

You lost me,

Point of reference?

likely be the one from Gibbard

qq.JPG

[Patrick Walsh]

Is stainless really what I would want to go with?

And might I ask how on gods good earth do you know all this crap?

I understand grades of stainless from exterior siding and finish nails but that’s about where it ends..

What if I was replacing them all with the black coated stuff.

If you replace it with stainless just be mindful of the grade. Stainless is rarely spec’s because typical stainless fasteners are rated at about 70,000 psi tensile strength. If you spend for Burmax 88 you can get 110,000 psi which is more inline with the high strength steel fasteners typically found in machinery on the low end, really need Burmax 109 to be a true high strength fastener, they’re probably $6-8/bolt.

[Warren Lake]

yeah not the first time ive heard that

Think someone mentioned the Wadkin. That should be a photo of the original paint when it was still at Gibbard. I had a whole file on that auction but its in another computer and likely need a can opener to open that one.

I have a bit of car restoration history but have stayed out of the restore thing as its not fresh and things change and likely see some stuff a bit different. Just wanted to stick the original colour of that saw up for you.

[Patrick Walsh]

Warren,

Before I knew what in heck you were talking about I did take a good look at that saw and think “what a sweet green that is”...

A few of us here really have something wrong with us considering how smitten we can be by and or about a machine..

I like it... nice to know I’m not the only one with this disorder...

Guys at work just shake their heads, all they can say is that sure is a lot of work. As if they are saying something is wrong with me. Well they are half right..


Also I have no history with auto paint. I’m learning as I go with this one. I understand enough to know that if I follow the data sheet and stay with one product line I should be golden. We will see..

yeah not the first time ive heard that

Think someone mentioned the Wadkin. That should be a photo of the original paint when it was still at Gibbard. I had a whole file on that auction but its in another computer and likely need a can opener to open that one.

I have a bit of car restoration history but have stayed out of the restore thing as its not fresh and things change and likely see some stuff a bit different. Just wanted to stick the original colour of that saw up for you.

[Tom M King]

While you're doing it right, might as well look at an Iwata LPH80. It has always seemed strange to me that woodworkers will have high end tools, and cheap spray guns. The only reason I can think of is that they have never used a good one. You won't see pro car painters using HF guns.