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Thread: Vintage Martin T75 restoration

  1. Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Walsh View Post
    I’ll try and get a video later but I have no idea how to post one here. I think I have to host it someplace else and I should kinda be in a hockey helmet when online.

    But “DONT TAKE THE SLIDING TABLE APART” unless you absolutely have to. The only reason I would after doing it is if something where broken.

    As I understand it after having it apart is the combination of the half mood end caps and the little steel “things Bolger two per side” that capture the bearings and races and acts as stops.

    So say the sliding table is 8’ and the races top and bottom equal length but say 36” and fully independent of each other top to bottom. Those races can move around the full 8’ length of the top and bottom table and pretty much they land where they land and only stop when they need to based on the half moon stops and little silver brackets.

    Let’s see if I have a picture of the half moon stops and metal brackets?

    Attachment 429857

    There you go. Those two things “half moon plate and metal brackets are all that capture the top and bottom race. The races just travel around I. The upper and bottom guide way falling wherever they feel like falling. I’m not aware of any limit rod or bars other than these stops.

    Taking the table apart is easy. Getting it back together is a royal pita and requires a few guys or gantry some ingenuity and probably a second set of hands.
    Thank you Patrick
    Do I understand you to say that the race moves wherever it wants and top to bottom one may not necessarily need to be aligned vertically with each other to function correctly?

    So when you reassembled your slider there was not a specific place that you set the top and bottom race?

    Any Idea what makes the race stop traveling when it comes in contact with the slide? I am thinking it may be friction. If that is the case one could possibly "tunk" it to move to a spot on the slide to give full range of motion?
    What is the silver disk on the end cap? I do not have that on either end.

  2. #1472
    Sometimes the bearings get out of time on the 75 setup from short strokes, partial strokes, etc. Every so often a firm stroke of the beam back and forth will get them where they need to be, to allow the full stroke.

  3. #1473
    That happens on my Paoloni as well, limiting the stroke length. Fix is as Darcy describes.

    My friend's T75 has a maximum stroke a bit over 96", just enough to split a full sheet of ply w/o clearing the blade at the end. You may need to experiment with the beam and support table locations to achieve that. Not ideal for sheet processing, for sure.

    Patrick, I see that you have a clamp mounted at the forward end of the carriage, without which the extension table could be attached a few inches farther ahead on the carriage allowing a longer effective stroke. Perhaps you could fabricate an extension for mounting the clamp?panel saw jigs 003.jpg
    Last edited by Kevin Jenness; 04-09-2020 at 2:04 PM.

  4. #1474
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Ouray Colorado
    Posts
    1,391
    Quote Originally Posted by Darcy Warner View Post
    Sometimes the bearings get out of time on the 75 setup from short strokes, partial strokes, etc. Every so often a firm stroke of the beam back and forth will get them where they need to be, to allow the full stroke.
    Thats what I remember from my 75. We cut a lot of 8’ sheets on that and seems like I could get 100”. Hard to remember.

  5. #1475
    This is exactly what I was trying to explain.

    Just give it a good shove but carefully.

    You will know when you can’t shove anymore.

    And yes this does make for more or less travel at one side of the stroke vrs the other..


    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Calhoon View Post
    Thats what I remember from my 75. We cut a lot of 8’ sheets on that and seems like I could get 100”. Hard to remember.

  6. #1476
    Kevin.

    I actually measured last night with no clamps on.

    I did not however take into account stroke I just measured the table with fence mounted then got by the ass end of the blade.

    I bet with a wee adjusting “my support arm is with Brian in Jersey” so I can experiment that I can get the 97-100.

    But not past the leading edge of the blade sadly.. and not with clamps.

    As you suggested I’m gonna machine up extensions for my air claps at either end at some point..

  7. Okay... I want to be sure I am tracking with everyone's' suggestions. The shove you're talking about would be when the stops are engaged (against the retainer ) and the table will no longer move freely in the direction you are pushing? At that point give the shove.... In my case the retainers both top and bottom are offset toward the operator side of the saw by about 20 inches.

  8. #1478
    I dont know what these retainers you are talking about are.

    Im gonna pm you my cell phone number. Call me and I’ll FaceTime you back or text you a video.

    Sound good?




    Quote Originally Posted by Fredrick Dornan View Post
    Okay... I want to be sure I am tracking with everyone's' suggestions. The shove you're talking about would be when the stops are engaged (against the retainer ) and the table will no longer move freely in the direction you are pushing? At that point give the shove.... In my case the retainers both top and bottom are offset toward the operator side of the saw by about 20 inches.

  9. Whew ,the shove trick worked. I am really relieved that it was not more involved than that. Thank you all for prescribing the fix. I now have 110.5 inches of front to back travel to the center of the arbor Can anyone tell me what the 2 items pictured are forthumbnail (1).jpg on the T75 saw?

  10. #1480
    One on the left is for those oil hoses we talked about.

    It bolts to the underside of the saw from the inside and the hose go through the hole. Just keeps the away from spinning stuff.

    That other piece is a mystery so clearly I’m issuing a part lol..

  11. #1481
    Well I never updated this. The saw has been up and running for at least a few weeks now.

    I’ve been using pretty much all day daily since. It’s just a dream, like really pure perfection. I was skeptical half nervous I’d end up with some kind of nightmare problem relating to calibration and or holding calibration and wish I had just purchased a new saw. Well I can unanimously say I wouldn’t trade this machine for the brand new T60C I would had purchased at some point even given the opportunity.

    I’m still not done but I’m kinda broke. I have to get my Martin jointer into my shop and anyway I go about it it’s a couple thousand of I do it myself or about four thousand if I pay a rigger. Then I found another t23 tenon table and I’m saving for that hopefully come fall.

    So the list as of now to finish.

    1. Hand wheel scales. I had them out at a shop but aftern more than six months and them not getting to them I’m took them back. I have since found someone to do the work but for now it has to wait as the $$ and I refuse to knuckle and dime another craftsman.

    2. A manual Oiler for the oil ports that’s lube all the working parts of the saw. You would not believe me if I told you how expensive this was.

    3. Finally a custom fabricated stainless steel outfeed table pretty much exactly as the newest T75’s come with.

    But for now the saw is making a living for me and doing big things as I have been working for a shop that builds pipe organs and have been fortunate enough they allow me to work from home. I say fortunate as I really just much prefer being left to myself to build things. I get more done ad the quality of my work is not even comparable to when I have distractions.

    40B5000E-8853-41E8-82E9-AAB4D703AEDF.jpg

    C59E7C20-3480-4111-AC2F-74F543A4ACF4.jpg

    3B0B583F-5473-43F9-9F10-D03ED3F29045.jpg

    E8BBBB47-94AF-4BA7-B130-5988B42B7CA2.jpg

    DDFB377D-D403-4A16-BCCA-1920CDA158CB.jpg

    I departed from my strict adherence to the original vintage restoration and installed some air clamps I made a number of years back. I was reluctant and scared drilling out the table with all that fresh paint and no way to fix it if I misplaced a hole or slipped a drill. I did snap a bit and have to excavate it.

    2D3D88C4-A710-4EE7-B592-A6EDFA3A692D.jpg

    DDFB377D-D403-4A16-BCCA-1920CDA158CB.jpg

    I’ll update one last time when the three items above are completed. Till then it’s just the sweet hum of her blade winding down to a stop and me molesting her with my eyes from across the shop as I work away.

    Fyi something is off in the color of these pictures. Or the quality. Weird as on my computer and or instagram they don’t look like poop like these do. Best I can do. I posted earlier and deleted the response as these pictures make my work look like shit..
    Last edited by Patrick Walsh; 06-26-2020 at 10:01 PM.

  12. #1482
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Central WI
    Posts
    5,666
    Patrick, machine jewelry. If you run across a tenon table for a T21, let me know. I think it may be the same as the T23 but not sure. Dave

  13. #1483
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Inkerman, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    1,389
    Beautiful job Patrick...... keep leading the way.

  14. #1484
    Patrick, that really is stunning. Congratulations on resurrecting the saw to such a high level. It's great that you are so happy with the functional result.

    How do you manage working around that stumbling block? Is there some reason not to jackhammer it out?

  15. #1485
    Will do, but if I ever find one myself we are gonna have to have a Walkoff for it..

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8720XS-pquc

    Quote Originally Posted by David Kumm View Post
    Patrick, machine jewelry. If you run across a tenon table for a T21, let me know. I think it may be the same as the T23 but not sure. Dave

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