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Thread: Vintage Martin T75 restoration

  1. #841
    We will we but I scored and sanded a good amount of bondo today. Pretty much skimmed the whole machine and sanded it back with a block. It’s pretty flat and the big stuff should be all but done tomorrow. It will still need a few go throughs spot patching and sanding radius inside and out side corners then the polyester and another sand.

    Point is when I opened the can of filler this morning there was a half gallon. I say I have a 1/4 gallon left and I don’t see needing another. So maybe the castings where not that bad. Or maybe I just am not willing to pile the bondo on only to have it all crack out at some point.

    Man that evercoat stuff powders out so nice but boy does it make a freaking dust mess.

    Quote Originally Posted by Darcy Warner View Post
    Last big bandsaws I stripped, took almost 2 gallons of filler each so I could get it all smoothed out. Never going to get them flat, smooth is what I was after.

  2. #842
    You know Brian your voice has been ringing in my head as I sandblast and clean up fromit. Early in the process when I mentioned blasting you mentioned the issue.

    Honestly there is only two places to trap media. They are the shrouds on the far left and right interior of the saw closest to the orrperator side. They are pop riveted on. Honest,y they were full of saw dust that could only be evacuated through threaded holes that happen to go into this cavity. Being pop riveted they are not fully sealed at the seams so when I blow compressed air in a threaded hole dust comes out the seams of these shrouds and honestly I could never get it to stop.

    My solution is going to be industrial caulking at the seams. Otherwise any media I missed prior to pain is now buried in a pile of epoxy primer and a mountain of body filler.

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe View Post
    Castings are never perfect, I'm sure the base product is very excellent from Martin all things considered.

    Just a heads up, but make sure this machine is completely free of sand blasting material. We had an air gun we used to blast our blind holes, then we would also chase down any oil lines or whatever else that could potentially hold some grit.

    It's a worthy concern especially in any areas which will hold lubricants, as lubricants embedded with grit become abrasives

  3. #843
    I’m sorry to hear of your headache.

    I really hope I don’t follow in your footsteps.

    I can’t believe the 50k views. Hoestly I do t actually work o just sit around and check this thread 500 times a day

    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick McCarthy View Post
    Patrick, Brian again makes a very good point.

    We glass bead blasted the 69 Camaro and I spent days - literally DAYS - with a bottle brush, a tooth brush, an air hose, vacuum, air hose again, vacuum, brush, air hose the same crevices and crannies . . . . and spun the rotisserie so many times I lost count . . . and we still find some granules . . . . . NEVER AGAIN will I bead blast a car. Next one I will suck it up and pay to have it dipped.

    With over 50,000 views, it seems I am not alone in my admiration of your work. Best, Patrick

  4. #844
    Got a few uninspiring bondo pictures.

    I’m far from the finish line with filler and sanding but making good progress. I’m hand sanding lol this with a block with 100 grit paper.

    Once I’m happy with the general form and shape, you know everything flat, all radius round and no major dings or voids I’ll prime the whole thing again with epoxy and then shoot it with polyester. Im gonna count on the polyester to take care of the small radius on the inside and outside corners. Such as the round detail around the base. I’m doing a little work to that now, well I’ve done nothing as of yet but I will. I will not however try and get it perfect with knife in filler. I’m gonna say a hail marry the spray filler does the trick. From the parts I sprayed to date I fully expect it will work out great.

    This is like coat number two. I think I’m like three coats in now and a spot fill. I generally have been sanding much of what I put on off.

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    Nice morning light in this one. Early early morning is by far my favorite time of day.

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    These pictures make it look like I’m doing a terrible job. It’s a process though and I assure you I can tell this is gonna come out every bit as nice as I expect it to.

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    And that’s how I left her for the night. I hope by the time to work bell rings in the morning I can be done with the body filler and ready for polyester. If so I’ll be in good shape to shoot the epoxy and polyester coat Friday. That will put me in good shape to sand it all out Saturday and maybe even paint it?

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  5. #845
    This one is for mark.

    So here is my thought. I’m considering not using bondo to fill the void “as per the factory” between the backer plate of the handwheel.

    Reason I’m comsidering this for ease of assembly. If I remeber correctlynthe disassembly and also your t17 thread if I bondo this on I’ll have to make a through key on one of the hmdwheel shafts to get everything back together.

    Am I thinking right that if I do it the way I’m suggesting it will all just go back together easy peasy 123?

    I know some will say don’t do that that’s hack kinda thing to do. And Honestly if it was someone else doing this and they asked or didn’t ask ask me for that matter I’d be the first to think “what a hack move you can’t do that” but I. Thinking practical reasons here and I’m also thinking I can get that line or break perfectly even so it looks intentional. I’m actually thinking it should had been intentionally not sealed together from thee factory.

    So what do you say?

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  6. #846
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Inkerman, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    1,389
    Hi Patrick, So i didn't sandblast my base; i sanded it, filled it, sanded, primed, sanded, primed sanded, top coated sanded and top coated a couple more times.

    As far as i figured; the top was probable turned upside down then the insides attached, then flipped and dropped in the base, then the backer- plate tilt-wheel assemble installed as a unit, then it was filled and painted.
    The backer plate/ tilt-wheel assemble;Take the backer plate, push the tilt-wheel shaft through it insert the key, then bolt it to the base.

    So if you assemble the backer-plate only to the base, then put the top on, then put the tilt-wheel shaft through you cannot get access to get the key in.

    As i wanted to paint the base prior to assemble, I attached the backer plate, filled and painted the base. So i cut the keyway through to the end of the shaft, that way i could place the key inside and slide the shaft in over the key.

    If you are not going to fill and blend the backer plate, then you can paint the base, drop the top on, then slide in the complete backer plate and tilt-wheel assemble with no problem.

    I have to agree with you the factory way to assemble this is pretty weird, not something that i would have expected, but i cant see any other way that it could go together.

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  7. #847
    Mark thanks for confirming this for me.

    It’s settled for me. I’m not gonna paint the backer plate onto the machine. Or rather bondo it on. As much as it looks the part I just see it as a design flaw. Mynthiught is in the event something goes wrong with the machine the backer plate has to be removed and this the paint job compromised. I suppose no need to take the backer plate off unless you are pulling the whole machine apart.

    Non the less I see no need to bondo it together as the shadow line created at the seam looks very intentional to my eye. Does it look as good as filling it on no but it still looks good none the less..

    Again thank you for your response as your insight has been helpful and greatly appreciated.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Hennebury View Post
    Hi Patrick, So i didn't sandblast my base; i sanded it, filled it, sanded, primed, sanded, primed sanded, top coated sanded and top coated a couple more times.

    As far as i figured; the top was probable turned upside down then the insides attached, then flipped and dropped in the base, then the backer- plate tilt-wheel assemble installed as a unit, then it was filled and painted.
    The backer plate/ tilt-wheel assemble;Take the backer plate, push the tilt-wheel shaft through it insert the key, then bolt it to the base.

    So if you assemble the backer-plate only to the base, then put the top on, then put the tilt-wheel shaft through you cannot get access to get the key in.

    As i wanted to paint the base prior to assemble, I attached the backer plate, filled and painted the base. So i cut the keyway through to the end of the shaft, that way i could place the key inside and slide the shaft in over the key.

    If you are not going to fill and blend the backer plate, then you can paint the base, drop the top on, then slide in the complete backer plate and tilt-wheel assemble with no problem.

    I have to agree with you the factory way to assemble this is pretty weird, not something that i would have expected, but i cant see any other way that it could go together.

    1-SAM_4185.JPG1-SAM_4203.JPG1-SAM_5792.JPG

  8. #848
    Man o man you all are gonn laugh at the pictures tonight. It looks like I did nothing. But that is far from true. I spent 1-q.5 hours this morning then another four hours this evening. The crazy thing is I started innthis morning with a 1/4 gallon of bondo and little much more is gone. The work at this point is very fine and just me getting all excited and anal retentive. Probably a big waste of time considering polyester spray filler will be shot all over it I hope tomorrow evening.

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  9. #849
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Central WI
    Posts
    5,666
    Patrick, are you taking the badges off? Is the Martin plate attached with screws and the other badge with drive screws? Dave

  10. #850
    Dave.

    There are actually three I left on the machine.

    The martin one. It looks like it should have screws as there are holes in the machine base behind it. There however are no screws.

    I pried at it a little bit before deciding it was not worth breaking as I can't figure how I would replace it and that would really bum me out.

    The second is the machine info underneath the martin badge and it is also on with adhesive so you know I was not screwing with that.

    Then on the back is a sticker to indicate blade speed and pull my configuration. Being a sticker I also decided do nothing but be very careful of it.

    It's not ideal to leave them on but it's better than loosing them. I'm 100% confident my body work leading up to them can be seamless and nobody will evet know I didn't remove them and paint behind them.


    Quote Originally Posted by David Kumm View Post
    Patrick, are you taking the badges off? Is the Martin plate attached with screws and the other badge with drive screws? Dave

  11. #851
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Inkerman, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    1,389
    Patrick, you can usually remove the glued on ones with a heat gun and or paint thinner, without damaging them. Paint thinner usually works pretty well. That's how i got mine off, if i recall.

    The best way for drive screws is to tap them out from the back, when you can. Its really hard to get them out without damaging the badge otherwise.
    The Robinson that i am working on had drive screws, which i tapped out from the back, a few places i had to mark, measure and drill holes from the inside to tap out the drive screws.

  12. #852
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Ouray Colorado
    Posts
    1,392
    If I remember correctly the badge on the T23 was held by screws or small pins. Maybe a little adhesive behind. It was easy to remove. I was disappointed to find the badge was plastic. I repainted the lettering with a metallic paint.

    i will look tomorrow to see if it was screws. They are hard to see.

  13. #853
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Inkerman, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    1,389
    Patrick, this is the one that was on mine, it has two pins and was glued on. I also was plastic. I decide not to put it back after i painted.

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  14. #854
    All that is good to know but what I’m most interested in is “the Robinson” .....

    In all seriousness I can’t believe I did not think to try and tap the badge off from the inside holes. I miss the very obvious things often.

    So do you think paint thinner would get the scales off the handwheels. I have decided I’d like to take them off but I need to get them off in one piece as to have them reproduced..

    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Hennebury View Post
    Patrick, you can usually remove the glued on ones with a heat gun and or paint thinner, without damaging them. Paint thinner usually works pretty well. That's how i got mine off, if i recall.

    The best way for drive screws is to tap them out from the back, when you can. Its really hard to get them out without damaging the badge otherwise.
    The Robinson that i am working on had drive screws, which i tapped out from the back, a few places i had to mark, measure and drill holes from the inside to tap out the drive screws.

  15. #855
    Thank you both joe and mark.

    I’m kinda kicking myself right now..

    Oh well..

    I got the base primed and shot with polyester this evening. That’s it for me for this week with the holiday. It’s gonna practically kill me to not be able to work on the machine this weekend. The booth is free and I could easily have the base in finsh paint Sunday

    In the booth and ready for another coat of epoxy primer.

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    And polyester. Everyone mind themself on my prep work. I knew I’d have some fairly significant misses on my body filler but decided that it was time to shoot the polyester. From the little expeerience I have with from doing the other parts I knew enough that it would be like magic to some of the tight nooks and crannnies and save me painstaking delicate filling.

    Yup you’ll find a couple sags on account of I decide to intentionally to way to heavy to fill something only to sand like 99.9% of it off.

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