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Thread: Vintage Martin T75 restoration

  1. #256
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Ouray Colorado
    Posts
    671
    Patrick,
    did you get the T73 sorted out? Martin should be able to give you a PDF manual.
    i don’t know if the T73 has the oil pump for the movements or the nipples with the push oiler. You need to be consistent about the oiling. And if the saw is not hooked up to good DC you might have to do some cleaning inside occasionally.
    the DC servo motors will not take much abuse, if things get dirty or no oil they will fail eventually.

    I got some holes in the lower dust shroud of our tilting T26 shaper which eventually caused the DC lifting motor to fail. I was able to raise and lower the shaft with a drill and driver till the new motor arrived. We had a Felder shaper that had a electronic failure on the shaft lifting and was able to run the shaft motor with a 24 volt drill battery.

  2. #257
    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Calhoon View Post
    Patrick,
    did you get the T73 sorted out? Martin should be able to give you a PDF manual.
    i don’t know if the T73 has the oil pump for the movements or the nipples with the push oiler. You need to be consistent about the oiling. And if the saw is not hooked up to good DC you might have to do some cleaning inside occasionally.
    the DC servo motors will not take much abuse, if things get dirty or no oil they will fail eventually.

    I got some holes in the lower dust shroud of our tilting T26 shaper which eventually caused the DC lifting motor to fail. I was able to raise and lower the shaft with a drill and driver till the new motor arrived. We had a Felder shaper that had a electronic failure on the shaft lifting and was able to run the shaft motor with a 24 volt drill battery.
    Truth on the DC. Even the old ones are finicky with dust. Caused me to crawl inside two 75s and pull the whole rise and fall casting to clean out packed in dust. They could have done something about that.

  3. #258
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Beantown
    Posts
    1,195
    Guys I did get it sorted.

    I ended up pouring some of the Martin provided oil used for the nipples in the trunion on either side and also all over the worm gear. It took a couple applications over 24hrs to get it moving. Once moving I worked the motor back and forth fir a good five minutes till it was smooth as butter again.

    I think the problem was we got the machine in the spring and it sat on the first floor of our building on a cement floor. I had no idea it was damp down there but the whole machine got a light coat of surface rust all over everything.

    I actually wonder half of my day today going through the whole machine with a brass wire brush, maroon scotch brite pad, and WD40. When I was done I then took degreaser to everything and lubed only the areas that want lube with the Martin oil.

    I also got all the random stickers and notes emoloyees had scribbled all over the machine over the years completely off.

    The stop for the fence was also Brocken, well missing a screw. I sourced that and it is also now working great. Now I just need to tap new holes for the stand off black that attaches to the fence at the blade side. I though we had lost this block but it turns out we have it. Only isssue is the holes in the fence extrusion are comepetly stripped. It seems they are m6, my plan was to upsize them to m7 but my local hardware store only had m8 and that’s way to big.

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  4. #259
    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Walsh View Post
    I also got all the random stickers and notes emoloyees had scribbled all over the machine over the years completely off.
    That spins me into a rage I can't even quantify.

    I busted my ass to buy that tool, don't treat it like a middle school locker.

  5. #260
    Quote Originally Posted by Martin Wasner View Post
    That spins me into a rage I can't even quantify.

    I busted my ass to buy that tool, don't treat it like a middle school locker.
    My kids plastered the side of a couple machines with stickers, wrote I love dad on my RAS tables, I find it makes me happy every time I walk by and see it.

  6. #261
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Beantown
    Posts
    1,195
    Oh yeah me to Martin.

    It’s just me and one other guy that build. Well and the boss who does freaking everything under the sun and a finisher who does a little of everything if he want to lol. Typical premadona finisher.

    Anyway the other guy that builds litterlay wants to deface every machine that comes into the shop right away as it just kills himmy boss and myself take pride in not only our machines but the hard work required to have them. First thing he wants to do is put a sticker on this one or that.

    After I purchased my jointer he actually had the balls after he noticed I blow it down everyday at the end of the day and rub supergleit on it nearly daily for the first couple months to threaten with a dunk and doughnuts ice coffee down on it with the intent of leaving a permanent ring.

    I nearly flipped the you know what put and threw him out the fourth story window.

    It’s taken a while to break these two monkeys like over a year but for the most part they are getting the drift. Still much room for improvement but they are not writing on the machinery. I guess a piece of plywood did bounce off the base of the new planer the other week when every cut out of like four sheets moved like a mile and was unusable. Well so I’m told, if I had my way bothe idiots would be fired at this point. The boss is to scared to be without them. I keep telling him there’s plenty of people will to make $30hr to make boxes along with cover in stuff that causes cancer.

    As you can see you hit a nerve.

    Quote Originally Posted by Martin Wasner View Post
    That spins me into a rage I can't even quantify.

    I busted my ass to buy that tool, don't treat it like a middle school locker.

  7. #262
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Beantown
    Posts
    1,195
    On a more positive note I made a bit more headway on my machine today. As mentioned prior the outrigger table was to be my next victim. Well maybe Iím its victim as it kinda just stunk to be honest.

    I forget to take a before picture so Iíll look to see what I have of the saw tight eh outrigger on the machine before I got to it.

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  8. #263
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Beantown
    Posts
    1,195
    I started by soaking everything in WD40 at like 5:30 am this morning before work. I sprayed it a couple more times through the day and just let it sit till I was done working for the day.

    I started by taking a brass wire wheel on a drill to it. Once that was done I took a DA to the painted surfaces that done mate to something they were machines to a tolerance for. Those areas I just left alone. I have also decided that aluminum surface previously machined as raw aluminum such at the sliding table it self will stay just as it is today. With regard to the outrigger fence my concern is I sand away any amount of metal then it does not mate perfectly up with the sliding table again. I also have seen a few restorations where you can see someone tools ros to the aluminum extrusion and no matter how hard you shoot for a even pattern it always looks like. And paint job that flashed to me. So for now at least the decision is all the uminum facing up that say a piece of sheet stock would sit on keeps 30myears of patina.

    I also took all nuts bolts and metal small bits and pieces and soaked them in laquer thinner all day. Actually that stuff is mostly all still in laquer thinner at this point as my carpel tunnel told me to go home after only a few hours of sanding and polishing today.

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    Rudimentary sand I think to 220. In this picture I had gone right from wire wheel to 220.

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    This next picture shows it sanded to 320. Again I got tired. I polished a small area with Braso and a scotch brite and it obscured the u ever scratch patter I so after can’t stand when people start sanding metal.

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    I’m not sure yet but I may sand this through like 800 the. Take it to the upright buffer. That should be interesting and fun lol but I think I can handle it. In such a case I bet I could make this look almost like chrome. I’m not sure I really want the I pimped my saw tin chrome 22’s either look though. If I can get a even mate finish with a buffing compound and a scotch brite that’s probably the way I’ll go. I’m already thinking how I keep it from just turning to rust again without spraying it with some kind of film finish. I really don’t want to do that either. I suppose a bunch of wax should do it also?
    Last edited by Patrick Walsh; 12-18-2018 at 9:57 PM.

  9. #264
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Beantown
    Posts
    1,195
    I just could quite thinking how much work I have to do and that I had better get and keep at it or this thing is never gonna be finished. In all honestly I’m hapoy if it takes all winter as I can’t get it into my personal shop till spring. Still that’s a tall order for me as I have so much going on.

    Anyway I was so happy this stupid little knurled handle was still with the machine. I could barely resist making it shine.

    If you look close in the picture above you can see the condition it was in this morning. I had my reservations as to how well I. Could clean the knurling.

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    I stripped it and sanded it to 320 real quick and then took it to the buffing wheel with some compound. I really didn’t like what I came up with. From what I’m finding Martin did not care much at all about its casting welds and or anything really unless it had a tolerance to be concerned with. Even pieces conceded with a tolerance will be perfect where they need to be then a hot mess like right next to it. Some of this hot mess or most of it seems to be obscured by body filler of some sort and heavy paint.

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    Not very happy I went back to the sandpaper starting at 80 this time and working back up to 800. I cut through most of the pitting and or just crappy mental work. I then took the piece back to the buffer. I then cleaned the knurling with a brass brush and WD40 again as the buffer wheel and compound make a little mess no matter how careful you are.

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    That’s it for today. Hopefully I can wrap up the outrigger table before the weekend. I did find the cool little round knobs “I dont have a picture” used to tighten the fence to the ourtrigger table are bent and as a result stuck in the outrigger table. I’m not sure exactly what I’m gonna do. I think these stupid little knobs may just be one of my favorite parts of the machine. I’m inclined to cut them instead of force the bent threaded portion of the knobs out resulting in destroying the threads. Well this is my plan if I can first find someone to make a half dozen new ones knurled and all for me. I’d then probably have them nickel plated.

    If anyone out there is capable or interested pm me and we can figure it out.
    Last edited by Patrick Walsh; 12-18-2018 at 10:11 PM.

  10. #265
    Quote Originally Posted by Darcy Warner View Post
    My kids plastered the side of a couple machines with stickers, wrote I love dad on my RAS tables, I find it makes me happy every time I walk by and see it.
    But your little monsters aren't people you're paying to treat the equipment/tools/building like their mortgage depends on it.

    I'd probably feel the same way you do if my spawn were to do the same thing.

  11. #266
    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Walsh View Post
    If I can get a even mate finish with a buffing compound and a scotch brite that’s probably the way I’ll go. I’m already thinking how I keep it from just turning to rust again without spraying it with some kind of film finish. I really don’t want to do that either. I suppose a bunch of wax should do it also?
    Wax is kinda hit or miss for me in that department. LPS-3 Is my go to for preventing corrosion for surfaces that aren't touching wood directly.

  12. #267
    Quote Originally Posted by Martin Wasner View Post
    But your little monsters aren't people you're paying to treat the equipment/tools/building like their mortgage depends on it.

    I'd probably feel the same way you do if my spawn were to do the same thing.
    They sorta do, without me they are homeless. Lol

  13. #268
    WD-40 is basically worthless.

    Kroil, PB Blaster, Mac's from napa are much better.

    Buy a gallon of evaporust for the small parts.

  14. #269
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Beantown
    Posts
    1,195
    Darcy,

    TBH I was a bit apprehensive to put PB Blaster on the trunion or really use it at all as I was not sure it might etch the surface of important working parts machined to a tollerance.

    I'll give the evaporust a try asap for the small stuff.

    What is the procedure for cleaning cast tables other than a bar keepers or something and a orbital with scotch brite.

    I'd like to bring the tables back to new but not at the expense of leaving hideous swirl marks everywhere and loosingvthe factory grind.

  15. #270
    My go to is a fine wire wheel on an angle grinder, then red scotch pad on a da. Final hit it with chrome polish is a fine liquid rubbing compound, applying with a wool bonnet on a big Milwaukee polisher.

    Start with a junk chisel or razor blade if it's real thick.

    Alcohol worked well for me for a lubricant once with a scotch pad.

    I think vinegar works well for stains? I haven't tried that.

    No sand paper. Ruins the grind.

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