Vintage Martin T75 restoration

[Patrick Walsh]

In light of my last comment the above cleaned up parts resulted ain a fully and perfectly function outrigger arm afte put back together.

I decided to put it back together not only to see if all the issues had been addressed and see if the travel was any more smooth but also because I have no idea when I will next have time to work on the project and did not want to forget how to put the thing back together.

The other thing I noticed and made me feels silly was just how rough Martins casting and or pieces were. As I sanded off the flaking finish what was revailed was many many machine, tool and or casting marks. All this will go away after I prime bondo and re prime.

Regardless I felt silly to care so much as to go to this extent when even Martin did not.

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That’s it for now. Next I’ll probably tackle the outrigger table itself followed by any parts that comprise the outrigger table. That should be another chunck or found time. The above work took me three hours.

[Patrick Walsh]

When you say the bearings for you t-17 are you talking simular one as to in the tables of the t75 in the linier races?

Those bearings are probably only gonna run $10-15.00 a piece. They are low speed average tolerance units. My T17 needed new bearings for the slider, and I think it was less than $50.00 for all of them.

[peter gagliardi]

No, The T75 uses balls only, captured in steel races- they should be waaaaaay less $$. The T17 uses bearings similar in size to that double bearing assembly supporting the male portion of the arm. If I remember correctly, there were 8 of them- 2 on each end, up and down on an eccentric stud, that captured the inverted, and normal V’s on the arms- both sets were set at 90 degrees to each othe, and 45 degrees from vertical.

[Patrick Walsh]

Thank you Peter.

How’s things going. We everything working out for you about there in heaven. Last you mentioned being very busy.

Oh, also,as for the bearing is the t-75msliding table. I assume they are just loose balls in races. If so I would assume the size of these balls is integral to the race and the wear marks in the slider rails itself. I would also think if you got the size of these balls wrong they could be either to loose or tomtight within the races resulting in a few issues. The first issue I though was if to loose I would have slop. If to tight a hard time sliding. Also if any bigger than what is there today or I gues to small I could have a hard time aligning or setting the height of the sliding extrusion relative to the cast iron table of the machine.

I’m most concerned with relationship to the cast iron table as I don’t see how one adjust the sliding table in relationship to the cast table. I have not investigated very far to date but with a just a quick few glances it sure looks like the sliding table might lack much if any ajustment relative to the cast table.

No, The T75 uses balls only, captured in steel races- they should be waaaaaay less $$. The T17 uses bearings similar in size to that double bearing assembly supporting the male portion of the arm. If I remember correctly, there were 8 of them- 2 on each end, up and down on an eccentric stud, that captured the inverted, and normal V’s on the arms- both sets were set at 90 degrees to each othe, and 45 degrees from vertical.

[peter gagliardi]

Things are good here, plenty busy, though this is the first weekend in months I did not work at the shop. Wife and 2 kids out of town, and I had my 2 oldest boys, so we did a couple other things that they enjoyed.
I turned down quoting a $75-85k cabinet and built in job last week- no manpower.
I really didn’t feel as bad as I thought I would......

[Darcy Warner]

It moves up and down. Look at the sharp edge it sits on, look at that bracket. The adjustment is there. It sounds as if it is already set perfect as I believe that was about factory specs.

[Patrick Walsh]

Darcy,

Took me a minute to figure out what you were making reference to.

You are talking about the cast table the sliding table sits on that bolts to the table.

From what I have found there are the two upper brackets that girth the underside of the sliding table or cast extrusion. Beyond that on the lower end I find a bracket at either side of the table with I think two smaller bolts in each. I dint know I guess the extrusion can be moved around within all these points?

Right now the table is not setup very good. It sits proud of the cast table my way more than it should at least 1/16th. Add to that is you defense one end of the sliding table to the cast table sliding table at the same edge of the cast table as the sliding table moves by it the sliding table goes from being 1/16th above to being nearly flush on the other end of the cast table.

I’m sure I’ll figure it out but any imsot3 prior I’m sure will help along the process. The fact is the whole thing is coming off and being completely taken apart to address the bearings. I’m not excited to reset it up. However if it goes anything as easy as the t-73 I just setup I’m not even slightly worried.

It moves up and down. Look at the sharp edge it sits on, look at that bracket. The adjustment is there. It sounds as if it is already set perfect as I believe that was about factory specs.

[Darcy Warner]

That entire beam comes off by removing two bolts that clamp it to the holders on the main casting. I believe those brackets have a big nut you loosen and you can move those two brackets up and down. Not sure if I have a manual or not still.

The beam is freaking heavy. All two guys can lift in place.

[Patrick Walsh]

Darcy,

I’m familur with the two upper brackets with large bolt. I have also noticed the lower brackets with two much smaller bolts each.

I was thinking the sliding table would be very very heavy. I recently took the table and carnage off the t-73. It was heavy but not crazy heavy.

That entire beam comes off by removing two bolts that clamp it to the holders on the main casting. I believe those brackets have a big nut you loosen and you can move those two brackets up and down. Not sure if I have a manual or not still.

The beam is freaking heavy. All two guys can lift in place.

[Darcy Warner]

Darcy,

I’m familur with the two upper brackets with large bolt. I have also noticed the lower brackets with two much smaller bolts each.

I was thinking the sliding table would be very very heavy. I recently took the table and carnage off the t-73. It was heavy but not crazy heavy.

I would have to see how yours look when you slide the beam forward and back. The two big nuts loosen the bracket to crank beam in an out for dado work.

That should be driven by a chain and a handle at the rear of the machine.

The other two bolts clamp the beam in place, also how you loosen it to slide whole assembly forwards and back.

[Patrick Walsh]

I’ll take pictures tomorrow.

But to mo be the beam for dado work there are two kipp levers. One on underside of either side of the beam. Then that hand crank that comes off the base.

Pretty slick. I’ll be interested in how accurately and repeatable the beam can actually move for dado work without throwing everything out of wack.

The saw really is very very cool.

Did you ever or would you be able to get me the color code for the green you used on the planer I asked about.

I would have to see how yours look when you slide the beam forward and back. The two big nuts loosen the bracket to crank beam in an out for dado work.

That should be driven by a chain and a handle at the rear of the machine.

The other two bolts clamp the beam in place, also how you loosen it to slide whole assembly forwards and back.

[Darcy Warner]

I’ll take pictures tomorrow.

But to mo be the beam for dado work there are two kipp levers. One on underside of either side of the beam. Then that hand crank that comes off the base.

Pretty slick. I’ll be interested in how accurately and repeatable the beam can actually move for dado work without throwing everything out of wack.

The saw really is very very cool.

Did you ever or would you be able to get me the color code for the green you used on the planer I asked about.

Shoot, I will take a picture of the lid.

Both of mine were perfect for the in an out for dado.
I thought there was a lever to unlock those and not have to deal with that nut.

I will look for a manual as well, although they are almost a joke. Hand typed translations with white out, pictures cut out and glued in. Lol

[Patrick Walsh]

We might be loosing each other a bit?

My machine does have two kipp levers that you loosen on the underside of the the machines base that you loosen to move the table in and out for dado. There is no need to loosen the large bolts on the two upper brackets that hold the carnage to the base. The only reason to loosen those is to move the sliding table carrage for and aft.

I have a manual but I’d love to see what you have. Who knows maybe mine is not complet or original?

Also anyone who, might have a manual for a 2002 T-73 would be very very helpful.

[joe milana]

Patrick, maybe this will help some. To lower the beam, loosen the two bolts below the black arrow 1/4 turn to loosen the bracket they hold. As you loosen the third bolt directly below them, the beam will drop (and move away from the blade) due to the angle the beam is mounted. Use a one way or straight edge until the sliding table is ~level with the cast iron table. Once at the desired position, tighten the bolt indicated by the red arrow to take op the slack. If you need to raise the table, loosen the bolt indicated by the red arrow first, then tighten the third bolt below. Repeat on other end of the saw. Repeat until desired result is obtained.
The bolt (one on both ends of saw) indicated by the yellow arrow is the stop to set the table parallel to the blade. Loosen the jamb nut on each bolt. Crank the table out a bit, then back in until it stops. Gently back off, then tighten each stop bolt until it makes contact, then tighten the jamb nut on each end. It is important that each bolt makes contact evenly to facilitate repeatability when the carriage is moved in & out. Once this is established, you can loosen the bolt indicated by the blue arrow & bump the carriage in or out. Then tighten the blue bolt & check everything. Repeat entire process until you get it "close enough". It's a challenge to do & describe, good luck with it!
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[Patrick Walsh]

Wow Joe that was very nice of you.

Sounds fairly simple, hopefully I dont eat those words.

So where’s the pictures of your saw, you gotta share now!

Patrick, maybe this will help some. To lower the beam, loosen the two bolts below the black arrow 1/4 turn to loosen the bracket they hold. As you loosen the third bolt directly below them, the beam will drop (and move away from the blade) due to the angle the beam is mounted. Use a one way or straight edge until the sliding table is ~level with the cast iron table. Once at the desired position, tighten the bolt indicated by the red arrow to take op the slack. If you need to raise the table, loosen the bolt indicated by the red arrow first, then tighten the third bolt below. Repeat on other end of the saw. Repeat until desired result is obtained.
The bolt (one on both ends of saw) indicated by the yellow arrow is the stop to set the table parallel to the blade. Loosen the jamb nut on each bolt. Crank the table out a bit, then back in until it stops. Gently back off, then tighten each stop bolt until it makes contact, then tighten the jamb nut on each end. It is important that each bolt makes contact evenly to facilitate repeatability when the carriage is moved in & out. Once this is established, you can loosen the bolt indicated by the blue arrow & bump the carriage in or out. Then tighten the blue bolt & check everything. Repeat entire process until you get it "close enough". It's a challenge to do & describe, good luck with it!
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