Vintage Martin T75 restoration

[Joe Calhoon]

What do you all think of Kolle? I don’t hear much about them but some of the equipment they made looks really well built to me.

I have been passively looking at their tenoners, which look to be built like a brick outhouse, maybe their sliders are an option for Patrick?

Brian,
Kolle is not bad I owned one of their slot mortiser that I regret selling.
the tenoners are nice but my favorite small manual German tenoner is the Panhans 269 from the late 80s - mid 90s. The table angles both ways to 60 degrees and they had the LAS fence. I think the Kolle only went to 45 each way and the Martin T27 -28 tenoners only 45 degrees one way. Similar to my T23 shaper. It can go the other way but a pain to set and no scale. Some slightly heavier manual tenoners more for window work were the Funk, Okoma and Haberkorn.
All these machines will usually have a 40mm shaft.

[Patrick Walsh]

Jim,

I tend to agree,

Weird that all living parts don’t show much of any wear as the paint is pretty representative of its age.

Now I just gotta get the seller to pay attention to my offer and go get this thing.

Based on your description, that sounds really promising and it also sounds like it was taken care of and/or not "over used". I can't help with valuation 'cause I don't have a clue about that.

[Jim Becker]

Yea, paint and aesthetics are easy to deal with if the "parts that do the work" are, um...working smoothly and correctly.

[peter gagliardi]

No wear is a very good thing. The noise you hear, and the loose part, without better photos sound like a minor fix. Once the rise and fall and tilt gearing, chains, and ways are clean, the saw will move effortlessly. There are lube points for every moving part on these machines. Get yourself a ball oiler. The arbor and motor assembly probably weigh as much as a whole sawstop, so....
1 1/4” arbor is a blessing in disguise. You will find shaper cutters that can be run on that.
PM sent

[Patrick Walsh]

Peter,

Sounds like I have found a winner.

Who knew me selling my bosses old saw would lead me down this rabbit hole. I had no intention of dealing with my want of a slider for my personal shop anytime soon.

Feels like this is the right choice. Now I just gotta strike a deal with the seller. Don’t think he liked my offer. For all,I know he is having reservations about selling. I have tried to purchase a number of used Martin machines. In ever case you get the feeling the seller deep down or “not so deep down” really does not want to sell.

I get it as a well built machine really is just such a joy to use. The difference between good enough and great really is just something.

My t54 jointer has such an effect on everyone who lays a hand on it. Even those whom don’t agree it necessary and would never buy one even if they could will admit how nice the machine is and how nothing they have ever used or seen in a machine even comes close to comparing.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Joe, greatly appreciate your insights!

[peter gagliardi]

Also, I think what Joe refers to as a double miter is essentially Martin’s version of Altendorf’s offering that they call the “duplex”. Essentially a 90 degree corner that can be set so 2 faces are at 45 degrees, or the odd angle and its compliment so you cut one side on the forward face, and one on the rear face. When done, you get 2 pieces that miter to a perfect 90 degree.

[Patrick Walsh]

Ah,

That would be slick.

The one and only downside to me choosing this machine vrs a newer machine would be the ability to cut angles with ease.

I was pretty excited and thus motivated to splurge on the digital readout for angle cutting with the crosscut fence of the modern machines. More than just the ability was the ease of setting it back to 90%.

I work on a machine at work that you would not dare move the crosscut fence from the 90% position as getting it back would be a major gamble and this task if you didn’t just get lucky.

To date I use the shorter miter fence that mounts further back on the sliding table. Again this fence is also a pain in the but to setup as it has no detents and just a scale. From what I have found the scale is pretty accurate but if you set it slightly off as everyone knows your not gonna get a square cut.

Not having to even think about that was very attractive. For $40K I think I’ll just have to learn to live without such a feature.

Peter,

How big of a blade can you fir on one of these old t75’s..

Seller made clear the 14” blade he runs won’t drop all the way under the table. Looks like you’d fit a 16” on it though..

Also, I think what Joe refers to as a double miter is essentially Martin’s version of Altendorf’s offering that they call the “duplex”. Essentially a 90 degree corner that can be set so 2 faces are at 45 degrees, or the odd angle and its compliment so you cut one side on the forward face, and one on the rear face. When done, you get 2 pieces that miter to a perfect 90 degree.

[peter gagliardi]

I do not know max size, but I have had a 16” on it, and it might take an 18” but I just do not remember. Going to the shop in a bit and can confirm.

[Joe Calhoon]

Not sure how the newer cross fence miters but the protractor one on the old one was easy enough to return to 90. The big marks for the degrees makes it accurate to 1/10th degree, maybe better if your eyes are good. T72 is accurate to 1/100 degree but dependent on electronics.

Here are pictures of some cuts made with the double miter. I am sure one of these could be adopted to the T75. Mine is made for the newer vintage Martins but I was able to make a new metal part to fit it on mine. They wanted a lot more for one to fit mine. After using this I realized a short stroke slider would be of no use in my shop.

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[Joe Calhoon]

I think the max size blade is 20”. Pretty sure mine would drop a 14 below the table.

[Darcy Warner]

I think the max size blade is 20”. Pretty sure mine would drop a 14 below the table.

The old t75 would run a 20" only a 12" would go below table.

There is only like 4 inches of height travel out of the blade.

A 12" blade on a t75 will do 95% of everything one needs.

[Patrick Walsh]

Thanks guys,

Just looking at the saw I assumed I could get a 16” blade on the machine. For whatever reason I fairly often want to cut more than 3.5-4”.

The miter-x looks like a great solution for me Joe. I guess just one more thing to spend money on lol....

[Joe Calhoon]

Probably right about not dropping the 14 below the table. We used 14s in the saw but it’s been 18 years since running it. We keep a 14” in the T72 and it will drop below the table. 14 is good for us because we are cutting door and window parts every day that are 2 1/4 to 3 inches thick. If you are just doing cabinet type work 12” is fine. Every so often the 20” saw goes in for thick projects. The 3 speeds is nice to have for the different size of blades and using shaper cutters.

[Martin Wasner]

I forgot about being able to change speeds. I'd think a 20" blade would have a ludicrous tip speed if the norm is a 12"