Setting Up a Wooden Moving Fillister Plane

[John Crawford]

Hi Everyone: I'm working on making a small flotilla of boxes for Christmas presents, and I have gotten the bug to try out a moving fillister plane for cutting my rabbets. I have a garden-variety Ohio Tool Company type plane; it is well used, but I think will make a perfectly decent user (I do have the fence and all the bits not pictured).

I'm just turning my attention to the iron and nicker, and wondered if you experts could answer a few questions:

(1) The iron needs to be re-shaped a bit. Of course I want the cutting edge (A) to be even with the sole of the plane. I know the right edge of the iron (B) needs to be a bit proud of the face. Does this right edge of the iron need to be fully parallel to the right cheek of the plane? In other words, the ideal setup is not for just the corner of the iron to be proud of the right cheek, but rather for the entire right edge of the iron to be proud of and parallel to the cheek. Is that correct?

(2) What do you think about this nicker profile? I haven't touched it yet, but the back is curved, and the cutting edge was (once) semi circular. Should I re-shape this to make it more knife-like, or is a circular profile fine?

(3) Finally, when installed, the face of the nicker ("C" in the last photo) is a bit proud of the right cheek of the plane. I assume that this is desirable, and that it should be proud in the same amount as the iron, such that together they form an even reference face for cutting?

Thanks for your help!


iron.jpg
nicker back.jpg
nicker front.jpg
nicker installed.jpg

[Warren Mickley]

If you are planing cross grain and using the nicker, the nicker needs to be out farther than the iron. It can be quite noticeable and work fine.

If you are planing with the grain, the iron needs to be out farther than the side of the plane. The side edge, which you label B. is usually sharpened at 80 or 85 degrees, so this edge can scrape a little to keep the side wall of the rabbet clean.

[Jim Koepke]

Having the edge of the blade to proud of the side of the plane can cause problems as much as having it shy of the edge.

One of the things that works for me is to set the side of the plane on the bench and press on the opposite side of the blade to set it flush with the side. It is simple and easy and seems to work.

A rounded edge on the nicker works well since it will help sever fibers on a push or pull stroke. The nicker should also be close to flush with the side for a neat cut. The blades and the side of the plane all work together for a clean job. If one is doing more than the others, it will show in the end result.

jtk

[John Crawford]

Thanks for all your suggestions. I'll use these as starting points for how to shape the iron.

How do you feel about Bill Anderson's suggestions (linked below) to have the nicker and iron both proud and both in the same plane? It sounds like this is a bit different than both of you use the plane? (Not looking to start a debate here, and of course I'll fiddle with all the methods once I'm up and running.)

https://youtu.be/yKiJ46JhWSM?t=118

[Jim Koepke]

Having the nicker and the blade proud by the same amount is good. It is the amount of the proudness needed that may be the subject of debate. Most likely it isn't actually a critical amount until the blades are so proud they cause other problems.

The best way to figure this out is to put the plane to wood. If the plane produces the results you want, then there is nothing to debate.

With a moving fillister or a fenced plane the plane is less likely to wander deeper into the cut. With an unfenced rabbet plane the amount of proudness or lack of proudness can make problems or just make the plane harder to push.

jtk

[Stewie Simpson]

John; if you wanting that moving fillister plane to work at its optimum, then you will need to check the fit of the wedge, as well as the irons bed for seasonal movement. A poorly fetted-in wooden bodied plane will generally exhibit chatter at the irons cutting edge.

The following photo shows the 3 critical contacts points on a rabbet and moving fillister plane where the back of the iron needs to be in contact with the bed. Those non critical areas (marked X) need to be lightly worked back to a lower level so they remain clear of those critical areas. Once the bed is fettled- in correctly, the next important stage is to fine tune the fit of the wedge within its abutment(s). The process of flattening the wooden sole of the plane has not been included within this post.

Stewie;

[John Crawford]

Stewie: Thanks for your detailed post and the photos. My wedge is in decent shape, fortunately. The bed looks ok; I'll keep my fingers crossed since I'm not set up with floats.

It looks like you are using something to give you feedback on the fit of the iron. Are you putting chalk on your iron to see how it beds? Or do you put chalk on the bed that transfers to the iron? Is it blue tape on the iron, or is that chalk?

Thanks again for the timely advice. I just got the iron to a nice profile today. I'll work on fitting this weekend....

[Stewie Simpson]

John; the primary surface on the bevel side of the iron is 1st worked on a diamond stone to a close flat surface

That surface is then covered with a blue masking tape prior to chalked.



The iron is then reinstalled within the plane, and with short strokes, the iron is lightly worked across the exposed lower bed.



Those high areas of the bed that come in direct contact with the chalked surface will leave a chalk transfer mark.

Note; chalking should also be relied upon to achieve a very close fit of the wedge within its abutments.

[John Crawford]

Great photos, and thanks for the explanation. I'll let you all know how it turns out....

[Stewie Simpson]

[Joe Bailey]

Good Stuff, Stewie -- and much appreciated

[Stewie Simpson]

Thanks Joe.