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Thread: Need some advice for staircase remodeling

  1. #46
    Thanks Richard. My stairs are done by framers. I can clearly see 3 rows of nails on each tread and riser. The white stringers on the side are just decorative mouldings. I think I am now clear w/ the installation method.

    Does finish mean putty nail holes, sanding, stain, and polyurethane? I often hear "finish in place". Why is that better than finish before installing? Then just do the wood filler afterwards. I prefer doing as much work as possible in the garage. Especially the all the dusty and stinky work.

  2. #47
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    I always liked to finish the parts before install if the finish was my responsibility, which wasn't very often. It wasn't a profitable part of mt business.
    Richard

  3. #48
    Thank you everyone for your input and encouragement. I will update this thread when my treads arrive in a 3-4 weeks. I will likely have move questions when work starts.

  4. #49
    Alright, my treads and flooring just arrived few days ago and I am pretty excited to get started. Next, I will be staining and finishing them before cutting and installing.

    A quick question on installing treads. My staircase currently has a skirt attached to the drywall (on both sides). I realize that given I am putting the new oak tread on top of the existing plywood tread, the skirt will appear shorter. Furthermore, the skirt will be butting against the new treads instead of sitting on top of them. Ideally, I should remove that skirt but in my case, it is quite tricky as it curves 180 degrees and I rather not mess with it.

    Question: Do I cut the tread to fit tightly again both skirts or need to give some room for expansion? Given it is just 42" wide, I figure there shouldn't be much expansion.

    Thanks much
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  5. #50
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    Cut the treads to fit as tightly as possible. The treads will not expand length wise. You really should use a tool like this or a similar cheaper version; https://www.amazon.com/DNB-Tools-PL2...a-437118750718

    I don't think I would worry to much about the revel of the stringer, If it ends up looking to short, put some base cap molding on top of it.
    Last edited by Richard Wolf; 12-19-2018 at 7:08 AM.
    Richard

  6. #51
    Thanks Richard. I made a similar stairs tool w/ a long piece of plywood and 2 trapezoidal pieces on both ends

    Now, regarding the depth of the treads, some are 11 3/4 and some are 12" thus I ordered 12 1/4 treads to be on the safe side.
    Is it a bad idea to cut treads with a circular saw and a straight edge? Do I need a table saw? I don't have one but can rent it if the circular isn't a reliable way to cut.

  7. #52
    I might consider a track saw as a second option if I didn't have the option of a table saw, but I would do what it took to make sure I had a table saw for a job like this.

    Setting up your treads at some sort of cut station, measuring and marking, clamping on the straight edge with an offset for the circular saw base plate...eh, it can be done, but it's inefficient, slower, more room for error, aggravating to deal with that much clamping when there are other options.

    Just my opinion, but I do this for a living and have a low tolerance for inefficiency and usually do what it takes to have the right tools for the job available.

  8. #53
    Quote Originally Posted by Richard Wolf View Post
    I think you really need to think about the first step/last step situation and how that will play out.
    That first step is 3/8" higher than the others if I don't remove the plywood tread. While that is within the code, it bothers me a bit. Given it wasn't much work to pry out the plywood tread, I am gonna split that 3/8 over the 2 two risers. Without that first plywood tread, I get back 1" to work with. That means I need to raise the stringer by 13/16 (1 - 3/8/2). Is this the right way to raise it? Basically just sister the stringer and glue the new tread to that 2x4

    Thanks much

    Photo Dec 25, 11 26 26 PM.jpg

  9. #54
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    Well a table saw is choice #1, but a circular and straight edge will work. If you go that route, here are some tips; new blade, tape the cut line, the circular saw is cutting on the up rotation, the tape will stop chipping. Set the blade angle at 1* for a slight backcut. This will insure a tight joint between the tread and the riser. While speed is of the most importance to stair professionals, it is your worse enemy. Think about everything you are doing and take your time. When I'm working, my mind is always one and two things ahead of what I'm doing, and it is important to be thinking about how things will effect things down the road. You should not be worried about speed. Someone should always be here to answer any questions that come up. Good luck.

    Yes that sistering looks fine.
    Richard

  10. #55
    Quote Originally Posted by Richard Wolf View Post
    Cut the treads to fit as tightly as possible. The treads will not expand length wise. You really should use a tool like this or a similar cheaper version; https://www.amazon.com/DNB-Tools-PL2...a-437118750718

    I don't think I would worry to much about the revel of the stringer, If it ends up looking to short, put some base cap molding on top of it.
    That is a nice looking tool Richard. I'm about to put in about 14 treads and can really see the benefit but doubt I would use it again. Would this be the one to get if I had some hope of reselling it after I am done?

  11. #56
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    I think there is a small market for reselling stair tools. I could sell you mine for $50 plus shipping, It's in very good shape, and has not been abused. Being retired, I have no use for it any more.
    Richard

  12. #57
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    Just about ready to install 13 retrofit stair treads on top of the rough 1.5" treads at my son's new house. Plan on using my Grizz track saw after scribing the cuts with my home made tread gage. A SCMS with a laser would be nice, but I don't have one.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    NOW you tell me...

  13. #58
    Quote Originally Posted by Richard Wolf View Post
    Well a table saw is choice #1, but a circular and straight edge will work. If you go that route, here are some tips; new blade, tape the cut line, the circular saw is cutting on the up rotation, the tape will stop chipping. Set the blade angle at 1* for a slight backcut. This will insure a tight joint between the tread and the riser. While speed is of the most importance to stair professionals, it is your worse enemy. Think about everything you are doing and take your time. When I'm working, my mind is always one and two things ahead of what I'm doing, and it is important to be thinking about how things will effect things down the road. You should not be worried about speed. Someone should always be here to answer any questions that come up. Good luck.

    Yes that sistering looks fine.

    Thanks Richard. Given the circular saw is cutting on the upswing, I thought people flip the piece face down then cut. Is that not recommended given the stair template tool becomes confusing when tracing on the bottom face? That said, I feel inclined to use my router w/ the pattern bit (just like how I would cut the curved treads) or w/ my straight jig.

    On another topic, what is the best way to make tread templates? A number of pieces have curved sides, curved front/back or both. Typically how close the tread must be to the side moulding for a professional look? Is 1/8" adequate? I was thinking of using butcher paper or cardboard to make the template, then trace it to a 1/4" plywood, cut and sand to get the best fit. And use the plywood as a template for a cut w/ the router.

    I've been scribing along the walls w/ this hacked-jig, but it's fairly time-consuming and for treads w/ 2 adjacent curved sides (such as the bottom-most step), I haven't been able to get a good fit yet. Pictures or the curves attached.
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  14. #59
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    When ever I have had to scribe two adjacent sides, I do both ends independently and than join both pieces with a middle piece and hot glue. You will have to be very close with the fit. 1/8" seems like a big space that will be noticeable even when caulked.

    I would rather not cut treads from the bottom, it does get confusing, and I always feel like I'm not cutting on the important side. Do what ever you have to so you are cutting on top, new blade, tape on the cut line.
    Richard

  15. #60
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    If I ever had to cut treads to go inside stringers, I always used a 10 point hand saw, but I can sharpen one. You can't cut one a hair long, and force it in, or it will open up the last one. I don't have a picture of treads, but here is one of the way I put up siding that is already stored here. Every piece needs to fit perfectly, but still be able to move it ever so slightly, so it doesn't push anything out of place.

    I mark siding with a preacher, but threads have to be done with a stair gauge. The couple of times I ever used one, it was a homemade one, but for fifty bucks, I'd buy Richards.

    edited to add: I mark with a very sharp no.4 pencil, and since the line is outside the gauge, just barely take the line.
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