Unifence Rail - Info Needed

[Andrew Stern]

Hello... New to group and need some info about a Unifence. Bought a Unisaw to restore that came with a LONG rail and Unifence that I can't use in the basement so I will be adding a right wing to the table and will use a Jetlock with 44 inch rails I was able to get which will give me something more than 24" right of the blade. The Jetlock is supported by front and back rails so I can move the fence past the table. If I can find a shorter rail for the Unifence (I think I have the early version) I might consider using the Unifence, but as I have no room to add an extension table, does anyone know what right-of-blade cuts I can make or if this is a practical idea. If anyone has a shorter Unifence front rail I would be interested in considering buying and using if it's possible and not cutting down the longer rail I have which might be able to be used someday if I can get more space. The basement shop is so small I have to step outside to change my mind.

[Jim Becker]

Why not just shorten the UniFence rail and use that excellent fence system? The high/low feature is worth its weight in gold. Sourcing a UniFence rail is an exercise in both finding one as well as finding the right one...there was more than one generation of them with slight differences.

[Charles Lent]

Another possibility is to offer to swap the long rail for a shorter one. Take and compare photos of the rail end profile to be certain that both are the same. I frequently see ads by people with one length rail that are looking for the other. You might get lucky and be able to swap with someone, making both of you happy.

The Unifence is one of the better fences ever made. It's far better than a Jet Lock fence. Peach Tree Woodworking www.ptreeusa.com sells an after market fence extrusion for the Unifence that has T slots and an HDPE piece where most work will rub against it. I have one and switch back and forth between the original fence extrusion and this one, depending on what I will be cutting. It attaches to the Unifence the same way as the original fence extrusion, so switching it out is quick and easy. I also bought a second 16" long Uni-T-Fence extrusion from Peach Tree to use as a stop when cutting many short pieces with the miter gauge. It's too bad that they don't offer the long and short Unifence rails as well.

Charley

[Andrew Stern]

I've come to understand the Unifence is what I should be considering using and cutting down the rail I have is something that I might do, but really don't want to. I hope somehow to be able to go with a more expansive table to the right "someday" and would regret cutting down or trading away something I might need later. For now I may have to consider using the Jetlock that I was able to get that has 44" inch rails and can extend past the table right wing if needed to give me a little more capacity right of the blade. Using an aux table isn't going to happen for me. Floor space is at a premium .... Will keep searching for a short rail and may consider modifying the Unifence to allow it to go past the table (albeit slightly), but the design chews up a lot of space right of the fence.

[Doug Garson]

Is there any reason why you could not cut your fence down now and make a connecter to put it back together in the future if you have room for a larger saw? Kinda like how tracksaw tracks are bolted together. Has anyone tried this? Seems like it would be relatively easy to do.

[Mike Circo]

I'll add on to the concept of using the Unifence and just cutting down the rail.

I've had a short-rail Unifence (goes to 30" to the right) for 20 years and never had a need for a longer rail. The very long rails may be more useful in a professional/production shop, for in my home shop, I cannot think of a time I wanted it wider. I once heard the concept that as long as you can cut to the center of a 4x8 sheet, that's all you need.

Also I second the vote for the Unifence being one of the best made. A good fence is 50% or more of a saw's accuracy and utility.

[Mike Kees]

Ok so I just have to say this...I am one of the guys who has butchered a Unifence rail;I know bad on me. I cut one that had been cut and re-welded together with a square tubing in it to line it up. So yes this can be done. I also bought a 32'' fence rail only on Flea bay to save my own 52'' rail. The short pieces are all saved and some have been repurposed in my shop,Makes a killer bandsaw fence too. Mike. p.s. If you cut it do it with a carbide blade in a miter saw.

[Andrew Stern]

Mike... I would agree with you as my experience has been much the same in that I have rarely been in need of cuts wider than 24" and could adapt to wide cuts with other options at hand. I just don't do that much with large sheet stock materials and would rather have the room for other equipment needs. Everyone's mileage may vary. Did you use the factory right wing? That's my preference. I haven't gotten into the process or am frankly not that familiar with the Unifence I have but it looks like the fence must be on the table for support (as there is no back rail). Is 30" to right doable without an auxiliary table?? How much rail overhang (if any) did you leave on the left side. ...Andy

[Mike Kees]

Andy I would have to go to my shop with a tape to be sure,but the way I remember is that the rail extends about four-five inches past the left extension wing in the factory set-up. All of my Unisaws have only had one wing on the left,so no I have not used them. You are right fence needs to ride on table for support. I think 30'' to right of blade will require a auxiliary table. The overhang on the left of the blade is so you can put the fence on the left side of blade and rip up to 12'' ( I believe ) . Occasionally I use it.

[Rick Potter]

If you decide to cut it, I got a nice clean and square cut on mine using my chop saw. Don't remember for sure, but it probably had an 80 tooth blade on it, and it didn't seem to bother the blade at all.