Interesting discussion, not least because understanding that little sharp edge IS woodwork. I have cambered a smoother blade at the edges only to help avoid tracks. If the chip breaker is set correctly to provide the correct back pressure on the chip then logically where the blade is cambered it is too close which causes what I call ‘dusting’ as it scrapes more than cuts. You can get the whole blade to dust with the CB set too close, this lifts the CB off the blade.
So logically the CB should always be cambered to match. Sharpening becomes fidly at the edges but doable. I’ve never cambered the CB as I only have one for each plane and have lived with dusting at the edges.
Bottom line, you need at least two blades for many of your planes and two chip breakers! I have used a back bevel for difficult wood but recovering the edge after is lots of work, easier to buy another blade. Mostly I regret the difficult wood.
I have seen furniture with heavily cambered plane marks that was probably wire wool rubbed before the finish and thought nothing of it. True finish planeing with camber I’ve never seen.
I recently bought a high (60^) bed smoother to avoid back bevelling. It’s wood and needed some fettling but pleasantly surprised by the results.
Wonder if cambering ones low angle jack plane is the answer to relieve it of it’s paper weight status. Anyone turned it into a cambered scrub plane?
You can do a lot with very little! You can do a little more with a lot!