another interior door question

[Joe Calhoon]

Hi Joe, thanks for the clips from the book. I'd love to see more, what are the odds there are still copies of this available?

Do you have a sense of why they cut the kerfs in the stave material that is visible in your third picture?

Thanks again,

B

Brent,
These books are still in print. I buy them at the Holz Handwerk show in Germany. The ones with lots of pictures are good as German technical words are hard to translate.

The kerfs are sometimes used in exterior work to leave air pockets for better insulation. At the time this book was written I don’t think that is why and this book is more about interior work. I am thinking it is to allow cross grain movement with the thick veneer applied on top. I tried Google translate but no luck.

[Joe Calhoon]

More from the book. Interesting how they do the wide bottom rail tenons vs the UK method of 2 split tenons.

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[Joe Calhoon]

Interior doors are pretty forgiving for construction until you get large and 8’ tall on heated floors.
If it was me Greg, I would be digging the Oliver HC out of storage. That’s a lot of doors for router mortises or hand doweling. Dowels for 1 3/4 doors should be 5/8” or a double row of 3/8 as Warren showed. The double row of shorter smaller dowels is a CNC router method.
dowels are good for complicated joinery where alignment is critical.

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[John TenEyck]

For me it was easier to route copes on the ends of a wide board from which the muntins were then ripped. Of course, this only works with a mirror image bit, or if you have matching bits.



Once the coping is cut you just rip the board into the muntins and then run the sticking profile on both edges.





For those without a shaper this is a pretty easy way to make cope/stick joints.

John

[brent stanley]

Brent,
These books are still in print. I buy them at the Holz Handwerk show in Germany. The ones with lots of pictures are good as German technical words are hard to translate.

The kerfs are sometimes used in exterior work to leave air pockets for better insulation. At the time this book was written I don’t think that is why and this book is more about interior work. I am thinking it is to allow cross grain movement with the thick veneer applied on top. I tried Google translate but no luck.

Thank you for the additional pics Joe, very neat. I have a large reproduction door to do soon on a historically designated Victorian era home so I'm trying to soak everything up.

I was going to guess air pockets for insulation, but wasn't sure.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks for posting up those details, Joe. This thread has been very interesting to follow along with.

[Greg Brophey]

Well I tried my loose tenon jig first and found it too hard to wrestle with the long pieces. Way too slow for this. Was going to use dowels first but decided against it. I think my best option now is to just rout the mortises out by hand held router with guides. If I put a stationary guide on one side and an adjustable guide on the other side, I can just rout out and feel stable and secure in the slot cutting.

I don't have to worry about ordering dowels, buying anything. I can make the tenons. I have all the bits. Anyone have any special setup doing it this way for the adjustable guide so I can secure both sides of the door parts when routing slots? As long as I register the one face to the stationary part, they should all line up well I would think. I think my bits will accommodate 2" of depth. Deep enough?

edit to say has anyone ever used the DBB Lock Mortiser? For the price of a top quality good dowel jig and dowels, you can buy this and make some pretty nice loose mortises. I just never seen one in action, nor do I know if it can do mortises like this accurately from one face. But you can do allot of different large joinery with it for sure.

=====================
Just looked at videos and looks impressive to me. Not sure if it can do narrow door rails on end though.

see here: https://www.morticer.com/en/videos/

Never mind, it won't work

[mreza Salav]

I have tried that for my doors. Still very slow method and you need to take your time. By the time you have done a few doors you realize it.
Here is the jig I made many years ago: simple yet very accurate. I use 4"x1/2" spiral bits. Be careful not to break them DAMHIKI.

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[Jared Sankovich]

I would be ordering a DominoXL. With that many doors the cost per door would be relatively low, and the time savings would be huge.

[John TenEyck]

Mreza, your jig is exactly what I tried to describe earlier. It is pretty simple to make and very repeatable and efficient for routing mortises on the edge/end of door components.

Greg, you should make something like this. 2" deep mortises is plenty for typical interior doors.

John

[mreza Salav]

I would be ordering a DominoXL. With that many doors the cost per door would be relatively low, and the time savings would be huge.

Somebody made that suggestion to me when I was making my doors (31 of them out of Maple) and I didn't want to spend that much.
Half way through I wish I had bought. I made the same suggestion above. Now I have a DominoXL and it's way easier/faster.