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Thread: Leigh Jig Problem Solved...

  1. #1

    Leigh Jig Problem Solved...

    Seems no matter what adjustment I made on the D4R Pro, I could not get rid of a small gap on the right side of all my Half Blind Dove Tails. After dozens of test cuts and few calls to Leigh, I finally found the culprit. The gap always occurred on the side of the joint, that relates to the side that sits closest to the left HB Pin Scale, when the Pin Board is mounted up. What I realized was that, as the router base travels up the fingers during the cut, the left side of the base was riding up onto the HB Scale, which it should do. Problem is, there's a raised rim around the outer edge of the scale that the Scale decal sits inside of. Well, that raised rim is high enough to cause the router base to lift as it travels over it, which causes a shallower cut on that side of the joint, which causes the gap. I hope those with the jig will understand my explanation.
    My fix was to file down the rim on all of the Scales. Now, I'm happy to report that the gap is gone. Thing is, I don't know if this is just a problem with my particular jig or if others have had the same issue and just regarded it as no big deal. Please let me know if you've seen anything like this on your D4R Pro cut dovetails.image1-3.jpg
    image2.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Madison, Wisconsin
    Posts
    489
    A picture of where you filed down would help. thanks, bob

  3. #3
    Bob, its the rim around the Scale that is raised about 1-2 mm, which doesn't sound like much, however depending on how finger assembly is positioned, it can add to the 1 or 2mm, causing the router base to lift. If you take a close look at the bad DT, you can clearly see a gradual increase in the gap, which relates to the lifting of the router base.
    IMG_1024.jpg

  4. #4
    havent used it for a bit, had to put stick on sandpaper in and sort of remember I found two issues that needed improvement, one when you tighten down it moves. Talked to them at the time and I likely planned to improve it. I think I skipped their scale and set mine up with a digital caliper. Did good work but think a drawer still took half an hour, a multipin machine a few minutes but not the nicer look.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Madison, Wisconsin
    Posts
    489
    thanks Derek!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Traverse City, MI
    Posts
    28
    Piggybacking on this older post, I would like to add my troubleshooting experience with a 4R. My results were a bit off with gaps where there should not have been gaps. After a call to Leigh and some time spent fiddling, I found the router base plates were not centered closely enough and further calibration helped some. The other issue was that the clear windows in the scales are a little less than clear than optimal and I have always had a tough time finding the line on the arm. I spray painted that area of each arm white and filled in the line with a fine India ink pen. The difference is amazing and so are the results. That's all I have.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    1,600
    What did Leigh have to say on the matter?

    seems to me this is a design flaw at worst, or a manuf. defect at best.

  8. #8
    Leigh did work with me over the phone. The "flaw" in my jig was fixable with a little filing, however it must be said that the rest of the jig is very well made. I think whether or not it changes the manufacturing process depends on how many users make the same complaint. It did take me quite some time to discover the problem, so it was by no means obvious. On the other hand, other users may not be at all bothered by the original resulting gaps in the joint.

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