Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: Purple heart and maple butcher block finish??

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Cleveland, Ohio
    Posts
    92

    Purple heart and maple butcher block finish??

    I am new to woodworking and am starting on my first "big" project, at least big for me.

    It is going to be a butcher block coffee table made of Purple heart and either maple or ash.

    As I am not very familiar with different kinds of finishing methods, I am looking for some advice on what you guys like or think would look good.
    I have been using Odies oil on a few projects and like the look.

    I do not want to use the stain and keep the natural color of the wood and grain.
    I am considering using Odies oil and then doing a high gloss laquer.

    Does anyone have any recommendations or ideas? What laquers have you used that you like? Should I use something under the laquer first?

    Thanks all!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
    Posts
    12,298
    Nearly any finish should work for purple heart and maple. I personally like an oil finish such as "danish" oil, but most of my wood pieces are woodturnings.

    Keep in mind that the purple color might look great at first but will probably turn to brown eventually, some quicker than others.

    This might be useful:
    https://www.wood-database.com/wood-a...-exotic-woods/

    JKJ

    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Mazzino View Post
    I am new to woodworking and am starting on my first "big" project, at least big for me.

    It is going to be a butcher block coffee table made of Purple heart and either maple or ash.

    As I am not very familiar with different kinds of finishing methods, I am looking for some advice on what you guys like or think would look good.
    I have been using Odies oil on a few projects and like the look.

    I do not want to use the stain and keep the natural color of the wood and grain.
    I am considering using Odies oil and then doing a high gloss laquer.

    Does anyone have any recommendations or ideas? What laquers have you used that you like? Should I use something under the laquer first?

    Thanks all!

  3. #3
    Nick, I'm going off topic here, because you said you are new to the hobby...... If you are going to glue purpleheart, you should do some practice runs on scrap to find a technique that works for you. When I glued-up PH, I needed to clean the oils off using a solvent before applying glue. I can't recall what I had to use but it was something stronger than paint thinner that I didn't like using. (One of the guys can probably remind both of us.) Also, FYI in case it matters to you - sunlight can turn PH brown over time. It doesn't nescessarily stay purple.

    Sorry to go off track - wanted to make you aware in case you weren't already.

    Fred
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."

    “If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,688
    Solvent based lacquer requires special care for personal safety...both for your body and for the area you spray unless you are doing it outdoors. If you don't have a formal spray booth, I suggest you consider a finish safer to use. Water borne products today provide a lot of the qualities that solvent-based finishes have, with low-to-no VOC, no explosion risk and easy cleanup. Brands like General Finishes and Target Coatings are most talked about here. Most water borne finishes do not have the same "warmth" that solvent based or oil based products do, so it's common to use oil and de-waxed shellac as a first step before applying the top coats.

    I'm not familiar with "Odies oil"...I just use BLO, de-waxed shellac (typically Zinsser Seal Coat) and Target Coatings EM6000 or EM8000cv.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #5
    I like the look of Osmo Top Oil. Nice product. It does not have the "plastic" look of poly or lacquer. I understand that durability is an issue with a coffee table, but I'd rather sand and recoat every couple of years than put a filmy looking product on top of the wood.

    I'll also echo the PH comments. It'll go brown on you eventually. Don't expect that it'll stay purple. IMHO, it's not a "nice" brown either.

    Cheers

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,648
    You can preserve the purple color for a very long time if you use a film finish that contains a dual UV system. One part of the system protects the finish itself from yellowing while the other part protects the underlying wood. General Finishes High Performance Poly is one product that contains a dual UV system, but there are others.

    John

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •