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Thread: Kickback when ripping at 45 Degrees on table saw.

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Belden, Mississippi
    Posts
    2,742
    Have you called SawStop?
    On the other hand, I still have five fingers.

  2. #32
    This happens because the front of the blade is trying to drag the off cut with it. Think about how during a 90 degree cut the front of the blade is pushing the piece downwards. Tilt the blade and now it's pulling the end of your off cut down and to the right. This in turn wedges the piece in tighter, which increases friction, thus pulling the piece in the direction of the blades rotation. You ever seen a pitching machine, same principle. I use a flat push block that I use as a follower to push the good piece and the off cut about an inch or two past the front of the blade. At this point the downward arc of the blade is less pronounced. I then back my push block out and clear my saw.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Kamiah, ID
    Posts
    280
    We moved a couple years ago. Whatever happened, the first time I tried a 45* bevel cut on my PM-66 I was having difficulties. Since it worked perfectly before we moved the saw somehow got damaged in the move. I was coming up with burn marks on one side or the other of the cut and the accompanying fling of the offcut. Even though I was calibrated for parallel, etc., at 90* it didn't translate to staying parallel at 45*. What I ended up doing was shimming the back of the table so it was coplaner with the saw blade at full tilt. Haven't had any problems since.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Orange County, CA
    Posts
    274
    Did not contact SawStop. The alignment process is well defined, but pretty convoluted with several warnings. I discovered shortly after attempting the process that the miter slot was tight at the front for about the first 1.5 inches. I have asked 8-10 PCS owners if they checked the 45 degree alignment. None have or noted any problems.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Houston, Texas area
    Posts
    1,308
    Both under table and overhead dust collection can suck lighter offcuts into the blade. Reducing suction in this situation may help.
    Mark McFarlane

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    North Dana, Masachusetts
    Posts
    486
    Here's a photo of my saw cutting a bevel with a dado blade. Note there is no scrap stick to kick back.IMG_3166.jpg

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    McKean, PA
    Posts
    15,595
    Blog Entries
    1
    Bill how high is you blade raised above the surface of the pieces you are ripping? The higher you set the blade above the work piece the more down force the teeth exert on the cut and the less horizontal force is exerted on the cut off piece.

    Is your riving knife the proper thickness for the blade you are using? Is it properly aligned with the blade?
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    New York City
    Posts
    176
    Quote Originally Posted by Lee Schierer View Post
    Bill how high is you blade raised above the surface of the pieces you are ripping? The higher you set the blade above the work piece the more down force the teeth exert on the cut and the less horizontal force is exerted on the cut off piece.

    Is your riving knife the proper thickness for the blade you are using? Is it properly aligned with the blade?
    Blade height is usually as low as I can go, the riving knife is the stock one that came with the saw and I use a full kerf blade, don't know if it's aligned, but I have no issues with 90 Degree cuts.

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