Kickback when ripping at 45 Degrees on table saw.

[Bill Dindner]

I have been woodworking for a long time now, and I can figure out whats going on with this issue.

I am using a Sawstop PCS and get excellent results, but when I am ripping stock at 45 degrees, if the off-cut is small, it almost always gets thrown back pretty hard. I always try and stand to the right of the fence if I can, but is there something that I am doing to cause this?

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Bill, are the anti-kickback pawls pushing the piece against the blade? Or perhaps the guard?

Since it's a left tilt saw it shouldn't have that issue...........Regards, Rod.

[Bill Dindner]

Hi Bill, are the anti-kickback pawls pushing the piece against the blade? Or perhaps the guard?

Since it's a left tilt saw it shouldn't have that issue...........Regards, Rod.

I don't use a guard, just a riving knife.

Can't figure out whats going on, did not have this issue on my previous table saw

[Martin Wasner]

I have been woodworking for a long time now, and I can figure out whats going on with this issue.

I am using a Sawstop PCS and get excellent results, but when I am ripping stock at 45 degrees, if the off-cut is small, it almost always gets thrown back pretty hard. I always try and stand to the right of the fence if I can, but is there something that I am doing to cause this?

Sometimes it happens. Sometimes it doesn't.

We bevel cut all of our faceframes to paneled ends. We make that cut quite a bit.

Sometimes it happens. Sometimes it doesn't.

I can't tell you who done what to which to cause or prevent it. I'm off to the left of the saw as much as possible when doing things like that. If it comes winging out, then it doesn't matter. If I were to guess, it's just tension being released and a little bit of vacuum being create by the blade pulling it in.

[Peter Christensen]

I don't use a guard, just a riving knife.

Can't figure out whats going on, did not have this issue on my previous table saw

Try with the guard on and see if it still happens.

[Warren Lake]

there is more tension release on a 45 degree than a 90 cut. Machining a 45 compared to ripping it has less tension release

[Charlie Velasquez]

I have been woodworking for a long time now, and I can figure out whats going on with this issue.

I am using a Sawstop PCS and get excellent results, but when I am ripping stock at 45 degrees, if the off-cut is small, it almost always gets thrown back pretty hard. I always try and stand to the right of the fence if I can, but is there something that I am doing to cause this?

Use a stand-off fence. The cut-off will fall harmlessly under the fence.
Edit: this assumes you are just beveling the edge to 45* or whatever

[Lee Schierer]

If you are trapping the cut off between the blade and the fence you will almost always get the piece flying back at you when you finish the cut. Try making your cut so the cut off piece is free to fall away from the blade by putting your work piece against the fence.

[Ben Rivel]

Is it possible the rear of the fence is just a hair closer to the blade than the front and its only showing up with a very light cut off and its kicking back? Have you use a tool like this: LINK to ensure the fence is perfectly flat and parallel to the miter rail?

[Bill Dindner]

Use a stand-off fence. The cut-off will fall harmlessly under the fence.
Edit: this assumes you are just beveling the edge to 45* or whatever

Not sure what a stand off fence is, sometimes I am beveling, sometimes taking more off depends on the cut.

If you are trapping the cut off between the blade and the fence you will almost always get the piece flying back at you when you finish the cut. Try making your cut so the cut off piece is free to fall away from the blade by putting your work piece against the fence.

The Sawstop PCS is a left tilt saw, not really an issue with this design, that would be a problem on a right tilt saw, or if I moved the fence to the right side.

Is it possible the rear of the fence is just a hair closer to the blade than the front and its only showing up with a very light cut off and its kicking back? Have you use a tool like this: LINK to ensure the fence is perfectly flat and parallel to the miter rail?

I own that specific item, the fence is pretty much perfectly parallel to the miter slot, but even if it wasn't, why would that make the off cut kick back exclusively while ripping with a bevel cut?

[Martin Wasner]

If you are trapping the cut off between the blade and the fence you will almost always get the piece flying back at you when you finish the cut. Try by making your cut so the cut off piece is free to fall away from the blade by putting your work piece against the fence.

Aren't all of those saws left tilt? I was just assuming the drop was on the left of the blade and out in the open.

[Andrew Hughes]

Is the cut good or does it have a burning at the beginning or end of the cut. The top might need to be shimmed in the front or back.

[Bill Dindner]

Use a stand-off fence. The cut-off will fall harmlessly under the fence.
Edit: this assumes you are just beveling the edge to 45* or whatever

If you are trapping the cut off between the blade and the fence you will almost always get the piece flying back at you when you finish the cut. Try making your cut so the cut off piece is free to fall away from the blade by putting your work piece against the fence.

Is it possible the rear of the fence is just a hair closer to the blade than the front and its only showing up with a very light cut off and its kicking back? Have you use a tool like this: LINK to ensure the fence is perfectly flat and parallel to the miter rail?

Aren't all of those saws left tilt? I was just assuming the drop was on the left of the blade and out in the open.

You are correct, I don't the he realized the type of saw.

Is the cut good or does it have a burning at the beginning or end of the cut. The top might need to be shimmed in the front or back.

the off cuts look pretty good, the "top" of what needs to be shimmed?

[Simon MacGowen]

I am using a Sawstop PCS and get excellent results, but when I am ripping stock at 45 degrees, if the off-cut is small, it almost always gets thrown back pretty

Check that your sawtable is not tilted to the right on an uneven floor. Vibration will cause the small off-cuts to "inch" towards the blade/fence if the sawtable is lower on the right hand side.

Use the blade guard with the anti-kickback pawl (which may catch the off-cuts)...not just the riving knife, whenever possible.

Simon

[Bill Dindner]

Use a stand-off fence. The cut-off will fall harmlessly under the fence.
Edit: this assumes you are just beveling the edge to 45* or whatever

If you are trapping the cut off between the blade and the fence you will almost always get the piece flying back at you when you finish the cut. Try making your cut so the cut off piece is free to fall away from the blade by putting your work piece against the fence.

Is it possible the rear of the fence is just a hair closer to the blade than the front and its only showing up with a very light cut off and its kicking back? Have you use a tool like this: LINK to ensure the fence is perfectly flat and parallel to the miter rail?

Aren't all of those saws left tilt? I was just assuming the drop was on the left of the blade and out in the open.

Is the cut good or does it have a burning at the beginning or end of the cut. The top might need to be shimmed in the front or back.

Check that your sawtable is not tilted to the right on an uneven floor. Vibration will cause the small off-cuts to "inch" towards the blade/fence if the sawtable is lower on the right hand side.

Use the blade guard with the anti-kickback pawl (which may catch the off-cuts)...not just the riving knife, whenever possible.

Simon

I guess the anti kick back pawl will do something if the cutoff is a bit bigger than the bevel, but I don't think they will make contact on a simple bevel.