Which bandsaw blades

[Dean S Walker]

I know, I have been searching through the forums looking at bandsaw blade likes and dislikes and I am all messed up now. I looked on timberwolf site and others and I have been using timberwolfs 1/2 3tpi for green. I noticed they have a 3 and 5 blade packages but I do not know how their other blades perform. There are so many blades out there I am turning to you guys to help here. What I am looking for. I just bought a laguna 18bx after selling my little 14 cast critter. I gave all the blades to the new owner so I am starting over in blade supply. I want a good solid resaw blade. wide, narrow, carbide what are your suggestions. I did have a woodslicer on my little 14 but my only complaint was it did not stay sharp very long. I will consider the carbide but would also like to know how or where to send it to get it sharpened. Maybe this isn't possible please let me know. Next is a good green wood blade and then a curvy capable blade. Maybe more but what do you folks think is a good set up for all the things bandsaw do. I would like to get a specific set of blades like 3 or four types but I do not want to have 12 different blades if you can get my meaning. I do not have a jointer or a tablesaw and just a lunch box planer, so I use bandsaws often. I have a lathe the rest is hand tools. Most flat work I do is smallish items so a good resaw finish equals saved time with the planes. Thanks folks

[Paul Williams]

Prior to upgrading my 12 inch sears bandsaw to the Laguna 14 BX I shied away from wide blades. I found the 1/4 or 3/8, 4 to 6 tooth the best all-round blades for my smaller saw. I stayed with the smaller blades for a year after buying the Laguna. Then I had a larger piece and switched out to the Laguna 1/2 inch 3 tooth blade. I haven put a smaller blade on since. Yes it doesn't corner as sharp, but the finish cut is smooth and it really works well in most situations.
Just my experience and somewhat limited so take it for what it is worth.

[Roger Chandler]

If you want really good blades for cutting blanks from logs, you can’t hardly beat the “Woodturners Blades” from Highland Woodworking. They are especially made for green wood/log cutting and out perform Timberwolf blades hands down! I’ve used many brands, but the Woodturners Blades are the best I’ve used, and are very reasonably priced, and last 3 or 4 times longer than any other blade for cutting blanks.

They are 3 tpi, .032 thickness for strength, rather than the standard .025, and they have hardened teeth, a wider tooth set for clearing the kerf, are 3’8” wide for great maneuverability in cutting circles, can even resaw boards from logs. They wil make them custom length for your particular saw at no extra cost, and Highland Woodworking has first rate customer service! On their web page put in the length you need and they will show you the price.

[Van Huskey]

For the resaw blade I suggest either a 3/4" Resaw King or 3/4" Lenox Trimaster. The RK can be sharpened by sending it to Laguna and Daily Saw in Fullerton CA can handle the Trimaster, there is a saw shop in CT that also sharpens them but the name escapes me right now. The RK will give a better finish off the saw the Tri-master will be a little faster and have a finish similar to the Woodslicer (which you can get the same blade stock from a couple of suppliers for significantly less if you decide not to buy a carbide blade). These options excel at veneer cutting if most of your resawing is not veneer there are better (faster) options.

For green wood, the conventional wisdom is the Highland Woodturners blade, I do have to snicker about the hardened tooth hype since they are Rc 64 which is the hardness of a standard quality carbon blade. The thinking outside the box blade is the Lenox bi-metal Diemaster 2 in 3/8" x 4tpi. I know several production turners that use them. They will outlast the Highland blade at least 5 to 1 and cost about twice as much, but if you are that guy that breaks blades regularly it is not for you. The Diemaster will benefit from a higher speed saw but the 18BX should be OK. The 3/8" Diemaster can also handle the vast majority of your contour cutting in 3/4" and thicker stock. To supplement this for thinner stock and tighter curves a 1/4" x 6tpi will work for most of the tighter work or thinner stock most will encounter. That covers you down to 5/8" radius curves. Tighter than that you will need to address the saw guides as well as the blade.

[Wally Wenzel]

go bandsaw blades.com and tell the man what you want and he will tell you what you need, about three days later you will have a goodblade. Wally

[Reed Gray]

Not sure what the teeth are on Laguna blades. Best blades I have used are Lennox Diemaster Bimetal blades. The teeth are M42HSS, which is the same material they use on the pallet cutting bandsaw blades. They cost a bit more, but if you hit a nail, they are not ruined. The 3 tpi blades can be resharpened several times. I have a local saw shop do mine. Really fine teeth don't resharpen because it is difficult to bet a sharpener that small. Carbide blades are for cutting fine veneers. The 3 tpi blades are for rough cutting, like for bowl blank slabs. On my 16HD, I have a 1 1/4 inch blade with teeth at about 3/4 inch apart, and bimetal.

robo hippy

[Van Huskey]

Not sure what the teeth are on Laguna blades.

robo hippy

The Laguna Resaw King has C4 carbide tips in a 2-3 variable pitch configuration, they have relatively large shear faces without a lot of clearance which produces very clean cuts. The Lenox Trimaster uses a triple chip geometry so it doesn't polish the wood quite as much but the edges last longer which is an advantage in abrasive woods.

[Dean S Walker]

Thank you gents I'll give the "Woodturners blades" a try. I do not do a lot of veneering at least not much thinner than 1/8 inch or so So we have the diemaster and the trimaster and the RK and I seen a carbide tooth that highlander carries. I think I should mention I do saw a good bit of ply and occasional MDF. This is generally hard on blades will the carbides be a better option.

[Chris Parks]

Van, where is that BS blade guide you wrote some years ago? It deserves another airing for those who have joined since.

[Van Huskey]

Thank you gents I'll give the "Woodturners blades" a try. I do not do a lot of veneering at least not much thinner than 1/8 inch or so So we have the diemaster and the trimaster and the RK and I seen a carbide tooth that highlander carries. I think I should mention I do saw a good bit of ply and occasional MDF. This is generally hard on blades will the carbides be a better option.

The Trimaster is the choice for use in engineered woods especially MDF, the triple chip grind is perfect for that application.

[Van Huskey]

Van, where is that BS blade guide you wrote some years ago? It deserves another airing for those who have joined since.

Here is a direct link but it is in the Sticky Thread post at the top of the General Woodworking and Power Tools sub-forum.

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....andsaw-blades!

[Chris Parks]

Here is a direct link but it is in the Sticky Thread post at the top of the General Woodworking and Power Tools sub-forum.

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....andsaw-blades!

Thanks, I don't see the stickies because I always use new posts to monitor the forums.

[Dean S Walker]

Well I feel like a dope. All that searching around and never looked at that sticky. Great info Van. Eight years has gone by sense that was written has your opinion changed at all?
I'm thinking the diemaster for green wood. It appears that they do not make a 3 TPI seams to start at 4. will this slow the feed by much? I'm all about longer lasting.
the Trimaster seams the be the ply/MDF blade of choice but I am somewhat confused, can these be sharpened? Reed has a place to do his can we use your guy or is there other options? Reed, what does he charge to sharpen? comparable to RK?
I also want to get a band for finer cut dry wood I have a desk project on the list and I will cut long slow curves in the legs. I do want to do some smaller work but I am thinking a 1/4 band for that probably 6 TPI. at least that is what I used on my old saw and it worked fine. is the diemaster a good choice here as-well.

All this said I have a laguna 18bx I think it will tension these bands we are talking about I guess the question is; what width would be reasonable on this saw. I think it is rated to 1-1/4 but 1 inch s what I had in mind for the carbide bands? The RK seams like the best value because of the resharpening is this still the case?

Also does anyone have a particular place they to purchase from?

[Reed Gray]

I think my 150 inch resaw blades are about $9 each. The carbide tipped blade I got from Lennox was not resharpenable due to the teeth being tiny. There are several options for self sharpening bandsaw blades, but I never had any luck with them, it ended up being more of a minor touch up job rather than resharpening and making sure the teeth had the proper set. I don't do much plywood or MDF, but I would think the 1/2 inch by 3 tpi Diemaster would have no problems. Worst for me in dulling all my tools is black walnut. Best guess is that it is acidic... If you have a local place that makes blades, talk to them. They may be able to recommend a sharpening service.

robo hippy

[David C. Roseman]

If you want really good blades for cutting blanks from logs, you can’t hardly beat the “Woodturners Blades” from Highland Woodworking. They are especially made for green wood/log cutting and out perform Timberwolf blades hands down! I’ve used many brands, but the Woodturners Blades are the best I’ve used, and are very reasonably priced, and last 3 or 4 times longer than any other blade for cutting blanks.

They are 3 tpi, .032 thickness for strength, rather than the standard .025, and they have hardened teeth, a wider tooth set for clearing the kerf, are 3’8” wide for great maneuverability in cutting circles, can even resaw boards from logs. They wil make them custom length for your particular saw at no extra cost, and Highland Woodworking has first rate customer service! On their web page put in the length you need and they will show you the price.

Roger, thanks for posting this. I had totally forgotten about that Woodturner's 3/8" 3TPI blade. Just ordered a couple to try with large green bowl blanks on a 17" saw. I like the thickness and tooth count.

FWIW, I too gave up on Timberwolfs a few years ago after using them for years for flat work. Disappointed in particular with them on green black walnut half-rounds, which are hard on blades. I've been very happy with blades ordered from Ellis Saw in Verona, WI for the 14" saw, and for general use on both, but their 3/8" blades are only available in .025. Ellis supplies mostly to the trade, with very good pricing but a minimum order requirement. Their website has good information on blade construction, terminology and applications. (www.ellissaw.com)