what's the difference

[Jim Colombo]

I'm thinking of building a work bench out of 2x4's so I went to my local big box store and was confused by the different woods.

There was "hemlock-fir select stud", "kd df select stud", "Top choice #2 kd doug-fir stud", #2 fir/larch stud", "Prem kd doug- fir", tc std and btr kd doug-fir" and "#2 pre kd doug-fir".

The only things I'm sure of is the KD means kiln dried and df means douglas fir. Other than that I'm at a loss to figure out what wood to use.

Can someone tell me the differences in these woods and which would be best for a workbench project?

Thanks,
Jim

[John Jenkins4]

I'd just go with the cleanest, straightest grain.

[John TenEyck]

Keep in mind that kiln dried framing lumber is not the same as KD trim or hardwood lumber used for furniture, etc. Kiln dried framing lumber is something like 19% moisture, which means it's still going to shrink a lot as it dries down to reach equilibrium with your shop. If you end up buying any of these I suggest you sticker it in your shop for several months before using it.

John

[Frederick Skelly]

I used KD 2x4s for my benchtop. I don't recall the label - I just bought the more expensive ones thinking they might be "better quality". I chose carefully - went into HD on a Friday night and went through most of a "bundle". Told them why and they were ok with me cherry picking. (I bought a few extra in case several potato-chipped on me.) I brought them home and let them sit only a week or two. Then I face-glued them. The top is still fine, though probably due for another flattening because it's been 3-4 years.

[Bill McNiel]

Stay away from Hem/Fir!

[Jaromir Svoboda]

Take a look at 2x12 lumber. It is better quality with few knots. I build few bench tops this way.

[Jacob Reverb]

I'd just go with the cleanest, straightest grain.

+1

I wouldn't worry too much about kiln dried vs non-kiln dried for a shop, your lumber is prolly gonna stabilize at somewhere around 10-15% and then just move with the seasons regardless of what you do or don't do...

[Robert Hazelwood]

The best species you can find as construction lumber for woodworking projects are southern yellow pine and douglas fir. Both are significantly better than the mystery "whitewood" (some variety of fir, spruce, hemlock, larch, etc.) and usually are cut from higher quality logs. As someone else said, you will find better lumber (straighter grain, tighter growth rings, fewer knots) in the larger sizes, like long 2x12s, because they will be cut from larger and straighter trees.

I built my bench from a handful of 16' Doug Fir 2x12s, and ripped them down to width with a circular saw and edge guide. After ripping, I stacked and stickered the boards for several weeks to let the moisture content get down to equilibrium- they are always pretty wet (~19%) when you get them from the store, despite being 'kiln-dried'.

[Tim Bueler]

There was "hemlock-fir select stud", "kd df select stud", "Top choice #2 kd doug-fir stud", #2 fir/larch stud", "Prem kd doug- fir", tc std and btr kd doug-fir" and "#2 pre kd doug-fir".

The only things I'm sure of is the KD means kiln dried and df means douglas fir. Other than that I'm at a loss to figure out what wood to use.

Can someone tell me the differences in these woods and which would be best for a workbench project?

Thanks,
Jim

Hem-Fir is Hemlock and/or white firs like Grand for example. Tends to be VERY soft. Similarly SPF, Spruce/Pine/Fir. DF Select Stud is what we used to call #3. Basically extremely poor quality and tends to have a lot of heart center which means it tends to crack/split/warp. DF-Larch is Douglas Fir and/or Western Larch (a.k.a Tamarack) is denser and stronger than the "white" woods.

Like someone else said, pick up some 2 x 12 and rip it to fit. It'll be much better quality. Rip and glue face to face you'll end up with a nice vertical grain top. It would be best if you have a way to clamp it flat and leave it while it dries a bit. Framing lumber does tend to twist as it dries.

[Jim Colombo]

Thanks for all the info. For those of you who built the benches, did you have plans or not? I would appreciate pictures and any advice.

Jim

[Robert Hazelwood]

I built a split top roubo and just had a general idea of the construction, but it's pretty simple. I altered width, length, thickness of various parts to suit my needs. The only real plans I used were instructions for the Benchcrafted tail vise.

Benchcrafted does sell detailed plans for the entire bench, I believe.

I made a blog that details most of the construction: https://roberthazelwoodwoodworking.w...roubo-build-1/

[David Bassett]

Thanks for all the info. For those of you who built the benches, did you have plans or not? I would appreciate pictures and any advice.

Jim

If you want plans, or just ideas of the design options, you have a lot of resources available.

Variations published all over the web.

Lee Valley sells plans too. (Veritas bench plans & Fine Woodworking plans, at a quick glance.)

Popular Woodworking has covered many options. They publish two Christopher Schwarz books on workbenches. They also sell magazine & article reprints that cover some of those benches and many others. I remember Megan Fitzpatrick & Robert Lang writing about benches. (Search their site.)

Mike Siemsen's "The Naked Woodworker" video, (that's naked as in without tools, not without clothes), targets a beginner building a Nicholson / English Style bench.

Lastly, Chris Schwarz recently published "Ingenious Mechnicks", at Lost Art Press, where he explores the history of workbenches. (Back to Roman, at least.) If you're obsessive you may find ideas there too.

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks for all the info. For those of you who built the benches, did you have plans or not? I would appreciate pictures and any advice.

Jim

You can search the archives here and get many pics of folks' benches. Some of the guys have been amazing - Tom Bussey recently posted quite a bench and IIRC, Ken Hatch made a mighty nice one. But there are many others.

I went to a store and took a few pics of various Sjobergs, then copied them using my construction lumber. Made the legs from thick and sturdy DF fence posts. Made the base heavy and solid.

[David Kumm]

In central WI SYP is much more clear and better quality than DF ( also less splintering ). I bought good stuff and then had it put into a kiln for a short charge to bring it under 10%. While it may not be necessary, it sure makes life easier when working with glue ups of top and even the legs. All the parts of a bench are heavy and wrestling wood that moves even a little is work compared to paying a little extra for good and dry stock. Dave

[David Bassett]

If you want plans, ....

I remembered seeing one more, of a very different style. Will Myers has written about and promoted the Moravian Workbench for a long while. (Local PBS just reran a Woodright's Shop show where he explained to Roy how strong & reliable the knockdown joints really are.)

Moravian Wookbench Plans & Article by Will Myers, republished on his blog.

Also, Ken Hatch has several project builds of this style bench posted here.