To fill or not to fill

[David Utterback]

Making a natural edge cherry tabletop with several splits from checking and using bubinga butterflies to stabilize. In the past, I have used various fillers for similar defects and thinking I might use tinted epoxy in this case. I have also thought about leaving the checks as they are.

I am almost certain that this topic has been previously discussed but I only get a handful of hits using the forum search function. Have others left splits unfilled? The top will be located in an entry way so a level surface is not necessary.

Thanks
David

[Jamie Buxton]

Lift a technique from turners: fill the cracks with crushed semiprecious minerals. Turquoise (blue) or malachite (green) look great with cherry.
Use epoxy, not super-glue.

[Jim Becker]

I like "unfilled" where it doesn't affect the purpose of the surface. For a dining table, it might be a problem. For a hall table...not so much. There is character in those "defects" and I personally like to embrace them.

[Jacob Reverb]

I like "unfilled" where it doesn't affect the purpose of the surface. For a dining table, it might be a problem. For a hall table...not so much. There is character in those "defects" and I personally like to embrace them.

I'm with Jim here. Just as you sometimes make a groove next to a butt joint to call attention to it, sometimes things look better when you don't try to "hide" them. Cracks, voids, imperfections and discontinuities are part of the wood. Trying to hide them (or spackle over them) with a material that's obvious just calls attention to itself and makes the viewer think, "I guess the cabinetmaker tried to hide this, but failed."

It's one of the biggest reasons I hate almost every use of "plastic wood." I'd rather see the nail head than plastic wood.

If I wanted "perfect" (and devoid of character) I would use plastic or metal or something other than wood. When I use wood, I try to preserve its character, warts and all, generally.

[John K Jordan]

Whether to fill a crack is a highly personal thing. I'm personally in the camp that doesn't fill. If a turning, for example, has cracks I either leave it or throw it in the burn pile. I especially dislike contrasting fills such as black,brass, or turquoise - I think they make the piece look cheap. In addition, filling with a non-flexible substance such as epoxy can be a problem with time - it might look great at first but might break loose from the wood or stand proud or recessed as the wood moves with moisture.

The only significant fill I've used on woodturnings in years has been in a large void from a bark inclusion on ERC that extended 1/2 way across the piece. I was concerned about the structural integrity. I carefully cut various strips and slivers of the bark and glued them into place to close the void somewhat. When done, it looked much like the natural bark inclusion would have if it hadn't come out.

JKJ

[David Utterback]

Thank you very much for the input.