Hi all,
I am looking for a decent, cost effective hand plane that will mainly be used for panel glue ups that are to large to fit in my 15" planer.
Does anyone have an recommendations?
Thanks!
[OP]
Member
Hi all,
I am looking for a decent, cost effective hand plane that will mainly be used for panel glue ups that are to large to fit in my 15" planer.
Does anyone have an recommendations?
Thanks!
Contributor
Electric or not electric?
If not electric, try the Neanderthal forum. Most who use them have multiple set up for different purposes (taking heavy shavings versus finer for example). A budget would also be helpful. For less than $50 you could get a Stanley No. 5 in good shape, or you could spend hundreds on a new manufacturer model. Also think about how you intend to sharpen it.
[OP]
Member
Thanks Nicholas!
I am looking for non electric with a budget of around 50-100$. I know people have entire sets for different applications. I am just looking for one to start off to plane panel glue ups that are to big for my planer. I just set up my first shop this year. Eventually I would love to have a full set.
Contributor
Nick
This question may yield a vast multitude of opinions. I recommend a #4 bench plane or a #5 low-angle jack olane. The low angle jack is more versatile because you can change out the blades. A longer plane is better for joining but less versatile.
Hand planes require knowledgeable preparation and some skill to use. It is a vicious cycle of not knowing whether difficulties are due to your lack of skill or due to the plane itself. A plane that will work right out of the box will exclude the second cause of difficulties. A new, top quality plane would cost you about $250. Look at Lee Valley Veritas or Lie-Nielsen. That may seem like a lot of money for a lump of iron, but it will save you hours of learning time. You might be able to buy a re-furbished #4 or #5 from somebody here on SMC that will be set up ready to use and cost much much less.
Newman are you listening?
Doug
Hand plane guys tend to get really attached to certain tools for certain tasks just as us tailed or hybrid guys do. My knee-jerk reaction was a low angle jack but, it sounds like you are after a specialized tool so to speak. For what you describe I would reach for a No5 (or a Millers Falls No14) if I didn't have a LAJ. Opinions and recommendations will be many and varied but, a No5 (or No14) is a good all around tool that will never lose its place in your shop. Stanley prices vary but, the last couple of MF planes I bought in user-ready condition were about $30.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Member
It will be difficult to find a plane for that price unless you go to a flea market. If you're lucky you can pick one up on Ebay. Just be very careful to inspect the photos meticulously.
That said, a #4 is the first plane anyone should own but is not good for flattening a panel.
For this you want at least a #5. IMO a # is even better.
Woodcraft sells a line of planes are are pretty decent called Wood River. I own several of them and have not been disappointed, other than some of the irons required a lot of work to flatten.
Member
#5 Jack Plane would be great for that. You should be able to find Stanley #5 on ebay or Craig List.Originally Posted by Nick Mazzino
Contributor
old smoothie.jpg
Larger panels need a longer plane....Stanley No. 7c ( You CAN get by with either a #5-1/5 bevel down, or a No. 6 bevel down. )
see-throughs.jpg
Besides..you can even use the No. 7 as a jointer, to get a good glue joint..
jointer.jpg
As sometimes, a 14" long plane just won't do...
Contributor
My suggestion for a single plane would be a #5 or a #6.
One place to begin would be the research:
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....al-wisdom-FAQs
There is a lot of information about many things on the page. Some of it covers rehabilitating and using planes.
If you know someone who uses planes it might be good to ask them if they would give you a quick tutorial.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
Member
I am aware that you asked about planes, but if you are talking about removing xs glue, then a scraper is a better choice (and cheaper -grin).
If you are talking about leveling wood then the above advice is spot on.
Mike
From the workshop under the staircase, Clinton Township, MI
Semper Audere!
Contributor
1. You'll also need a way to sharpen the hand plane and need to factor that into your total cost. There are many ways to sharpen, ranging from sandpaper to diamond plates ($100 each) and many choices in between. Depending on your manual dexterity, you might also need a honing guide. You can search the archives here for "sharpening" to better understand the options, but if you are just buying an old plane with a regular steel blade, "scary sharp" (sandpaper) is a perfectly good and cheap beginning.
2. There are many sources for old hand planes that have been tuned-up. A buddy of mine bought an old #6 that had been precision ground (flattened) by Mr. Tom Bussey, a member here. I now own that tool and I can tell you that Tom does good work. Here's a link to a thread about him. Link. (No affiliation with Tom.)
Fred
"All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."
“If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”
Member
+1 on starting with a #4. That is the baseline against which you can make more informed decisions about future planes (e.g. shorter, longer, bevel up, etc.).
As for the wide board planning... you can get there with the #4 and it will be in your price range. Use a pencil to scribble on high spots you find with your straightedge and plane them away, rinse and repeat.
Taking the $100 limit off the table, a bevel up #5 is a great tool for that application AND a whole lot more.
IMHO, you will be in great shape to make things flat and smooth with those two planes.
Contributor
If the panels are large they may be a little flexible, if they are thin they will be. You will need a flat surface to hold them, not so easy. Because of this a shorter plane will follow the surface better. Because the panels are wide you need a wide plane for two reasons:
1) You can plane more faster.
2) You can camber the edges of the blade so you don't leave grooves and still have some width left, (so buy two blades).
A 4 1/2 is your best bet. It will do the job and cost less. Bevel down is the place to start. Bevel up can be very problematic with many wood grains.
Yes you will need to sharpen the blades so your budget is blown. You will need to be good at it also!
Think long term, get two blades: one to camber. Lie Nielson, Clifton and Lee Valley are premium offerings. Older Bailey, Stanley etc. can be very good but will need to be carefully checked and getting a second blade is a little more difficult but very possible.
Warning:
Hand planeing is addictive, the results can be superb.
You can do a lot with very little! You can do a little more with a lot!
Member
I totally agree with the hand scraper, get the panels as close as possible and a hand scraper is all that that is needed.
Chris
Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening
Member
I got started on a hand plane kick many years ago and ended up with 604, 605, and 607 Bedrocks.
They have Hock irons and breakers. They are a real solid set of planes.
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