Hang garage cabinets on drywall and cabinet depth

[Rick Pinzon]

How wide are they?

My cabinets are a little over 34" in height (864mm) and 56.5" above the floor. (The pic may look like they're short as the ceiling height is 10-1/2')

The 32mm system is a European method of which there are many variations, but they make the layout and installation of hardware such as shelf pins, and Euro style cup hinges quick and easy if one has tooling.

Attachment 394861

[Rick Pinzon]

thank you. Understood

The inside-the-wall blocking I’ve seen is 2x6 running stud to stud, with the 6” dimension up-down. Screws go horizontally through the stud into the end of each block. They go straight in on one end, and are toenailed at the other.

[Rick Pinzon]

metal or wood studs?

I hung my cabinets using a French cleat and ran a 12" wide piece of 3/4" plywood across the wall.

[Rick Pinzon]

That is a pretty cool idea

I've used Danback before with success. Put a level line 1/2" below the top of the cabinets. Cut out the drywall behind the cabinets and install blocking (or Danback) then cover it with 1/2" plywood (assuming you have 1/2" drywall.) If you do the layout right, all of the cutting and plywood will be behind the cabinets and you won't see it. Of course, when you change the layout of your shop - and who doesn't? - you'll want to take the 1/2" ply down, put in drywall and tape it.

https://www.clarkdietrich.com/produc...e-wood-backing

[Tom M King]

Nothing to do with the question, but it makes me remember a kitchen I rebuilt in an early 20th Century house. It had a new kitchen put in it in the early 1950's. There was an 8' long upper cabinet over a peninsula. with thin glass doors on both sides. It separated the kitchen from the breakfast table area. The family had all their fancy China in it that had been handed down for generations.

After taking everything out of it, we proceeded to drop it from the ceiling with a couple of wrecking bars. It came right down easily, and landed squarely on the peninsula below. There were two 10 penny nails holding the whole thing to the ceiling, nailed straight up into one second story floor joist. No other fasteners of any kind.

It was a good thing the house was framed with Pine lumber that was some good, back then.

[Roger Feeley]

I used to have closed cabinets in my old shop and I found that I tended to put things in there and forget them. Out of sight, out of mind. I had a similar but different problem with horizontal surfaces.

So in my new shop, I have no closed cabinets except for one that holds my screws, bolts, nails and such and another for the sockets and taps and dies. Everything else is on open shelves in bins and clearly labeled boxes. I can stand in the middle of the shop and see virtually everything. I'm not criticizing anyone other than me. for some reason, I just can't be trusted with closed cabinets.

I also tend to trash up horizontal surfaces. In my old shop, I had the aforementioned closed cabinets (old kitchen cabinets) with counter on top. I never used that thing as a work surface. I was just a big trashy shelf. Same story for a couple of tables I had. In the new shop, I have a workbench and that's it. I have the beds of various power tools like the table saw and router table that get kind of trashy but I have to clean them off to use them. Again, I'm just trying to deal with my own shortcomings.

In my shop, the concrete walls are framed with a false wall covered in OSB. Loads of shelves and if I want to hang something, I just drive a screw. It was well worth the time and effort. Attaching the shelves to the OSB instead of using floor standing makes it much easier to clean.

I have no wiring behind the OSB. I chose to run it all on the surface so I could see it and easily move it around.

[Rick Pinzon]

I understand your view and I sure many people have that out of sight out of mind problem. I will probably fall into that trap but for now I will build the carcasses and then worry about doors later so it will give me a chance to see everything.

I used to have closed cabinets in my old shop and I found that I tended to put things in there and forget them. Out of sight, out of mind. I had a similar but different problem with horizontal surfaces.

So in my new shop, I have no closed cabinets except for one that holds my screws, bolts, nails and such and another for the sockets and taps and dies. Everything else is on open shelves in bins and clearly labeled boxes. I can stand in the middle of the shop and see virtually everything. I'm not criticizing anyone other than me. for some reason, I just can't be trusted with closed cabinets.

I also tend to trash up horizontal surfaces. In my old shop, I had the aforementioned closed cabinets (old kitchen cabinets) with counter on top. I never used that thing as a work surface. I was just a big trashy shelf. Same story for a couple of tables I had. In the new shop, I have a workbench and that's it. I have the beds of various power tools like the table saw and router table that get kind of trashy but I have to clean them off to use them. Again, I'm just trying to deal with my own shortcomings.

In my shop, the concrete walls are framed with a false wall covered in OSB. Loads of shelves and if I want to hang something, I just drive a screw. It was well worth the time and effort. Attaching the shelves to the OSB instead of using floor standing makes it much easier to clean.

I have no wiring behind the OSB. I chose to run it all on the surface so I could see it and easily move it around.

[Tom Bender]

Hanging from your metal stud wall sounds questionable. A couple of stronger methods, you could use more than one.

1. Run a 2x4 horizontally just under the cabinets. Add a leg or two to the floor, also tight to the wall.

2. Run vertical studs against the wall at each end of the cabinets, floor to ceiling.

3. Add hangers from the ceiling at the front of the cabinets.