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Thread: Junk, junk,nothing but junk

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Junk, junk,nothing but junk

    I think I've had every on/off switch on every power tool I own, go bad. Two miter saws, a table saw, and a skil router. Okay, so it was a cheap router, so I invested in an expensive Bosch router, #1617 EVSPK, a couple hundred dollars or more IIRC. This morning THAT switch went south and I don't use it that often. I'm sure the contacts get burned, but usually they can't be disassembled for clean up. I replaced the table saw switch with a 20 amp wall switch but rigging something on a hand tool is a little more iffy.

    Looked up the part number on the web and noted a problem solution site by cause. The switch is the cause of no start problems 66 percent of the time! It's a six dollar part for gods sake! What are they thinking? The start switch on my Yamaha is giving owners problems too. Why can't we get quality switches? Rant off. Bob
    Life's too short to use old sandpaper.

  2. #2
    That Bosch switch is notorious for filling up with sawdust. I've taken mine apart several times, blown it out, and it will work again

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Glenn View Post
    Why can't we get quality switches?
    Quality switches are around, at least for the table saw. Figure 3 HP single phase. Google Grainger stock number 1H501. Of course the price doesn't include the accessory on/off control box. That's extra. So are the thermal overload heaters.
    If you want to have the possibility of more switch problems put in an Asian-made IEC type.

    For portable power tools, making the switch the weak link means lazy buyers will replace the tool before attempting a repair. Thus, they sell more tools.
    I've learned that if I like an electrically operated tool/machine and the replacement cost is significant then I try to have an extra switch in stock.

  4. #4
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    You can buy your $6 switch here. I would suggest buying two so you have a spare. That will insure it will never break again.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    I've never seen a switch I couldn't get apart to repair or attempt to repair. Some require drilling out rivets, some bending or cutting metal. I've fixed a lot of switches.

    Most of the time with woodworking equipment the switch gets sawdust inside. Occasionally if the current is too much the contacts are burned or corroded but that is uncommon. To fix the switches I clean everything, apply a light smear of dielectric grease to the contacts, lubricate sliding and rocking parts, then reassemble. If the switch had failed from fine sawdust I try to seal the outside. Sometimes I'll wrap with some kind of plastic, sometimes seal holes and crevices with silicone caulk. Some switches need to be put inside a rubber boot to keep the dust from getting in the front.

    Be careful when disassembling an unknown switch. There are often tiny parts which might fall out or fly out under spring pressure. These have to be put back exactly as they came out.

    JKJ

  6. #6
    What’s the best way to clean the burned/blackened contacts on the switch? I usually use fine sandpaper but was curious if there’s a spray or solution that cleans the copper without abrasive?
    Last edited by Dan Jansen; 10-14-2018 at 8:38 PM. Reason: Punctuation error

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Jansen View Post
    What’s the best way to clean the burned/blackened contacts on the switch? I usually use fine sandpaper but was curious if there’s a spray or solution that cleans the copper without abrasive?
    If the geometry give you access, then try a pencil eraser. Simple and clean. I've succeeded with that. I'd avoid any kind of spray. That just makes a mess. I know because I've done it......Or if you do, then make sure you blow everything out with compressed air.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Jansen View Post
    What’s the best way to clean the burned/blackened contacts on the switch? I usually use fine sandpaper but was curious if there’s a spray or solution that cleans the copper without abrasive?
    There is a contact cleaner spray which will clean dirty contacts, sometimes without disassembling by spraying through crevices in the switch body. But I try to take them apart to clean them properly and lubricate with dielectric grease. Unless the they are pitted or corroded, even blackened contacts can usually be cleaned with a soft cloth or a q-tip and some solvent without abrasives. (The solvent can be the contact cleaner.) I usually use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PHDLQY or https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Ele.../dp/B000BXOGNI The CRC and dielectric grease is available at NAPA or one of the other auto stores. (The contact cleaner sprays evaporate very quickly and leave no residue.)

    I use 1200 grit sandpaper or as coarse as 600 grit if the contacts are significantly abraded. Someone mentioned a pencil eraser which also works as it contains a mild abrasive. Some contacts are plated so you may get diminishing returns if the plating is removed with too much abrasive. If there is significant burning/arcing the contacts might not be salvageable or they might not last too much longer after cleaning - in this case the bit of dielectric grease can help prolong the life a bit. Some switches have contacts that aren't used (e.g. DT switches used as ST) so using "fresh" contacts might be possible. If I find badly burned contacts I try to replace the switch with one with a higher rating. Many local motor shops carry high quality switches.

    BTW, I think dielectric grease is perfect for any type of electrical contacts such as push-together connectors, screw connections, light bulb bases, etc, especially for things subject to moisture such as on automotive, trailer wiring, or other machinery. It keeps the moisture and oxygen away from the metal to help prevent corrosion. I use it on every connection, including circuit breakers, especially important, I think, on breakers in outside panels.

    JKJ

  9. #9
    I know this does't help when using your router hand held but for table mounted I have a separate switch mounted to the table and the router switch never gets turned off.
    Thanks Bob

  10. #10
    I've covered these types of switches with a, err, umm... thin latex membrane. Keeps dust out while still allowing the switch to fit and function as normal.

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnny means View Post
    I've covered these types of switches with a, err, umm... thin latex membrane. Keeps dust out while still allowing the switch to fit and function as normal.
    Readily available at most drug stores too!
    - - - - - - - - - - - - -
    Jim Mackell
    Arundel, ME

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by johnny means View Post
    I've covered these types of switches with a, err, umm... thin latex membrane. Keeps dust out while still allowing the switch to fit and function as normal.
    Bet that makes an interesting conversation starter when someone visits your shop.
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."

    “If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”

  13. #13
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    I wonder if you don't want to look at your line power condition? I have mid-range (Grizzly, Delta, Jet) machines that have been run near-daily for over a decade and have never had switch trouble. I do have good dust collection so you may want to look there as well. If switches are getting packed with spoil I fear for your lungs ;-)

    I'm not trying to say you have bad power. It is just beyond coincidence that you would have so many switches fail. I have read about others switch problems and there are definitely known "bad switch" tools. It just seems odd that I (and others) would never have that problem while you (and others) do. Dad lives in San Diego and their power fluctuations are legendary. He went through all kinds of appliances when he first moved onto SDG&E's grid. Now he just runs simple surge protectors and things seem to survive.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by glenn bradley View Post
    I wonder if you don't want to look at your line power condition? I have mid-range (Grizzly, Delta, Jet) machines that have been run near-daily for over a decade and have never had switch trouble. I do have good dust collection so you may want to look there as well. If switches are getting packed with spoil I fear for your lungs ;-)

    I'm not trying to say you have bad power. It is just beyond coincidence that you would have so many switches fail. I have read about others switch problems and there are definitely known "bad switch" tools. It just seems odd that I (and others) would never have that problem while you (and others) do. Dad lives in San Diego and their power fluctuations are legendary. He went through all kinds of appliances when he first moved onto SDG&E's grid. Now he just runs simple surge protectors and things seem to survive.
    Line power conditions...... Such as cords, plug receptacles and such. If there is resistance or poor connections, the tool can over heat and also stress the switches. So if you are having problems with many switches, maybe the underlying problem is something other than junk.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Potter View Post
    I know this does't help when using your router hand held but for table mounted I have a separate switch mounted to the table and the router switch never gets turned off.
    Thanks Bob
    That's how I set up my cheap Skil router.
    Life's too short to use old sandpaper.

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