Help designing garage cabinets

[Chad Grenier]

I want to build a row of cabinets in my garage and I like how the cabinets in this video are built without side walls between the cabinets. It really does increase the amount of storage you have.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0fUOz3KhtfY

I'm having a little trouble figuring out how they are built. When I try to plan it out in Sketchup I realize that my face frame would be floating off the cabinet, and I have some weird butt joints that I'm not sure how to attach. The 2x4 in the back will attach to the studs in the wall. Should I use joist hangers to attach the supports to the long 2x4 that runs along the garage wall?

I'm just in need of general advice, thank you in advance.

Here is what I sketched up with issues

http://screencast.com/t/iPTeMYqku
http://screencast.com/t/pwDx0A3kW5

[Sam Murdoch]

Looks like they just built something to the effect of 2x4 frames with 3/4" (or 1/2" ) ply tops and maybe a nice piece of painted lumber as a face piece. These shelves are independently attached to the wall and then the face frame system with the doors is attached to the substantial structure of the shelves.

Yes - the shelves should be lagged to the studs along the wall - set level - and then the face frame (and some end panels - 3/4" ply) supports the front edges.

I'm just guessing but this is what I'd do using the video image as inspiration.

EDIT -
Just seeing your SU models - sorry. I think you are making it nicer and more complicated than necessary. You could do this all with 2x4s though I admit that I would want to select really straight stock and/or run pieces over the jointer to maintain straight edges.

AND/OR all made from 3/4" ply with glue and screws. Double up on the ply rips on the back edge. One long piece and then pieces cut to fit between your perpendiculars with another ply rip on the front THEN run a nice piece of lumber as a front piece to hide all the ply edges.

Clear as mud? More later if needed

[Chad Grenier]

Thanks for the feedback Sam...couple more questions...

-Is there a certain type of 2x4 I should look for that will make it stronger? I will be getting the lumber from HD or Lowes unless they don't have what is recommended.
-What type of material should be used for the face frame and doors? The doors will be large, probably 2'x6' each or so, and I would like to paint it all to be very smooth (no wood grain visible). Not sure what types of materials to use for finished surfaces.

Thanks!

[Todd Burch]

I did something similar in my garage for some extra shelving. The top-front 2X4 is screwed to the ceiling joists and the bottom rear 2X4 is screwed to the wall studs. Pretty simple design, holds a ton of weight. The perpendicular connections are 1/2 lapped, glued and screwed.

I have not made the face frames yet, but they are on my to-do list…

[Todd Burch]

Thanks for the feedback Sam...couple more questions...

-Is there a certain type of 2x4 I should look for that will make it stronger? I will be getting the lumber from HD or Lowes unless they don't have what is recommended.
-What type of material should be used for the face frame and doors? The doors will be large, probably 2'x6' each or so, and I would like to paint it all to be very smooth (no wood grain visible). Not sure what types of materials to use for finished surfaces.

Thanks!

SYP (southern yellow pine) is the best choice if buying from HD or LOWES. That's what I used. Very strong and usually pretty knot free. If you can't find good 2X4s, you can buy 2X6 or larger and rip. No need to use treated wood.

You can use poplar or good quality pine (bought as such, or knot-free cuts made from lower quality pine boards) for the face frames. Plywood is probably your best bet for single big doors. Use a paint grade cabinet quality plywood - don't use construction grade plywood, as it is highly likely to warp on you.

[Sam Murdoch]

...also - not knowing your level of woodworking skills or what equipment you have to work with I will assume that you are asking about simple plywood doors. As you are asking about achieving a smooth painted finish I highly recommend that you spend a bit more on MDO - medium density overlay plywood. This will have a paper finish on two faces and will paint up beautifully with MUCH LESS prep work than plain plywood. I find that it is typically a better grade plywood that "cabinet grade". You can spend lots more to upgrade to high end ply but I'm not sure what might be available from box stores or local lumber yards. MDO is a very decent project.

​Keeping plywood doors late will require: In either case - Expect that they will warp a bit and so select your ply very carefully cut your ply into the sizes you need - and don't hesitate to toss out the worst piece(s).

Then one of these options -

A) a back frame or perimeter frame of lumber that has been straightened and stress released.

B) Plan on using extra hinges - no less than 3, better 4 - for a 6' tall door and with a solid catch at the top and bottom. This hardware will help to train your doors to stay flat. Painting both surfaces and edges equally is also essential. Try to avoid painting one side one day then the other side the next. Devise some way to stand them on an edge (a few cross pieces screwed into the bottom or simply hang them on the hinges) and paint both surfaces.

• In fact I would prefer to cut the doors in half. Easier to build a flat 3' tall door than a 6 footer.

• The plain ply door could get a simple 3/8" or 1/2" thick solid wood edge to hide the ply edge, if you care, or simply sand smooth and paint.
Perfectly acceptable for a shop door.

• The door hinges could be simple strap hinges - the kind that the jamb side gets mortised in but the door piece is attached to the face. The door catches should be good spring loaded catches rather than magnets. KNOW what you are using for hardware ahead of time. Beginner's (and "pro's" too) common mistake is to wait until after they build then they need to scramble to find hardware that will work for their "custom" design or they need to rebuild or add all kinds of extra "details" to enable their hardware to work properly. KNOW what you are using for hardware ahead of time.

Good luck. we are here for you

[Sam Poulson]

Just my two cents...

I built a 4' wide x 8' tall x 2' deep cabinet out of 3/4" oak veneer plywood and 3/4" MDF doors. The shelves are also 3/4" oak plywood and will have a hardwood or possible metal angle edging to add shelf stiffness, since I chose to span the full 4'. Its a long span for 3/4" but I don't plan on putting real heavy stuff in there like motors and such. The back is 1/2" plywood, making the overall depth 25.25". Everything was butt-jointed, glued and screwed. I chose to do european frameless style. Due to the height and depth, it isn't as stable as I'd like. I may have to fix one of the shelves midway for rigidity. The joints still need sanded down before I paint mine. Mine will be Rustoleum Gloss Machine Gray, matching my cheap gray Craftsman roller cabinets.

Keep in mind your shelves will need cut down to narrower than 4', since you have to consider your cabinet wall thickness on each side. I recessed pilaster-type adjustable shelf strips into the walls so that the shelves are flush with the cabinet walls.

I don't have any pictures yet, still need to do that.