Hi,
It seems that having bandsaw wheels coplaner is something bandsaw owners strive for. Makes sense to me.
But what I wonder about is the method for checking if the wheels truly coplaner. I could be wrong, but it seems like every procedure I read only checks the wheels on one side if the axles. So while the straight edge might contact the wheels at four points, the wheels could still have some twist, that would not be apparent unless the straight edge was also used on the wheels at the opposite side of the axles.
With my particular bandsaw, a Davis and Wells 20”, it is possible to adjust things so the wheels are showing coplaner when the straight edge is positioned both in front and behind the axles.
But I understand many bandsaws do not have this adjustability.
So, is it the common procedure just to check for coplaner just on one side of the axles?
Just curious more than anything really. Do you guys check the wheels on both sides of the axles when setting the wheels coplaner? I believe I read that if there is some twist, the fix in most bandsaws would require machining.
I do know that crowing the tires will cause the blade to run well even if the wheels are not coplaner. I know this because I changed the bearings on my saw, and the blade ran very well before I set the wheels coplaner. But I think using the crown on the tires, or wheel tilt, probably stresses the blade a bit and may shorten its life.
This is is an educational question on my behalf.
All experience and opinions greatly appreciated!