Buying lumber from a cut list.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

The key to low waste is to know what stock is available before you design the project.

[Jim Becker]

I use a software program called “cutlist” to minimize waste when cutting pieces for a project.

Cutlist type applications are outstanding for sheet goods, but not quite as good for solid stock other than figuring board feet requirements to some extent. Why? Because it's rare that even one board will be ideal for just cutting out components without shifting things around to account for grain and color variations. Waste is normal with solid stock because of that. For paint grade work, you can cut things closer (pardon the semi-pun), of course, but for projects where the wood is the feature, the optimal end result requires more material to start with to get there.

[Darcy Warner]

I just buy 500bf at a time. Problem solved.

[Ben Zara]

Finding the right wood is a pain but you gotta embrace it.

The prime difference between fine woodworking and everything else is that fine woodworkers carefully select the wood.

If you have ever been to a friend's house where he just got new "solid cherry" kitchen cabinets then you know what I'm talking about:
Where the rails and stiles or the panel glue ups look like someone purposefully picked out grain that was as opposite as possible.

Yeah we empathize but carry on

[Doug Hepler]

Cutlist type applications are outstanding for sheet goods, but not quite as good for solid stock other than figuring board feet requirements to some extent. Why? Because it's rare that even one board will be ideal for just cutting out components without shifting things around to account for grain and color variations. Waste is normal with solid stock because of that. For paint grade work, you can cut things closer (pardon the semi-pun), of course, but for projects where the wood is the feature, the optimal end result requires more material to start with to get there.

I agree with most of this, but somehow I feel that I should comment. Yes, Cutlist is virtually indispensable for sheet good layouts. With boards, the layout I get from Cutlist is still vastly superior to any I can do in my head or on paper. My simple chair has 45 pieces. These can be arranged in more than one million possible arrangements. When a board has defects that would spoil a piece in the layout, the layout diagram makes it easier for me to relocate that piece. Cutlist allows me to manually lay out the cuts, so I can work around defects if necessary. In any case, I can still get an efficient layout. Of course, I usually buy extra BF, depending on lumber grade. That's where I cut the replacement pieces.

So, perhaps some of us simply feel better doing layouts by hand and some of us find that process to be tedious.

Doug

[johnny means]

+ 30-50% based on anticipated waste. I just put together a cutlist for two pair of carriage doors. Each pair is just under 8'x8', so 8 and 4 foot lengths were what I needed. The supplier happened to have 8s in stock, minimizing unnecessary length. If I had to buy 10s, we would have been looking at 2' of waste on almost every board.

[Simon MacGowen]

I just buy 500bf at a time. Problem solved.

Real woodworkers do things like that, unless you don't have the storage space/budget. I work with rough lumber and 200bf is the minimum I get every time. It is also more efficient to dress your stock in bulk and let it acclimatize. I can have several hundred bf of dressed stock at a time ready for any project I choose to do. Sometimes, the stock (grain) you want may not be available at your lumber yard.

Worrying about 10% vs 30% of waste, etc. is unnecessary if you are in the long haul to build things. I still have a few planks bought more than a decade ago, which are waiting for the right project. Lumber costs go up over time, and you may be saving a lot with those birds-eye boards you bought 5 years ago. Waste? What waste?

Simon

[Michael Costa]

It's woodworkers source (Phoenix) and not far from me so I don't mind going there. I did sort my cut in widths which made it easier I'm sure. But I was just amazed at the time it took to select all that wood.

And speaking of woodworkers source. I noticed a negative thread (which is now closed) about them. Not sure if this matters but I was there twice over the weekend and there are many new faces. This could be why some got crummy boards. And I agree a phone call is better than email. Email is extremely time consuming. They are the read and get back to later type of communication. And most times that get back to gets so far down the list it's lost in the shuffle.
Point is, I have never had issues with them. Although I have never bought something sight unseen.

[Jim Becker]

Doug, I don't disagree at all with the statement that Cutlist Plus can be used effectively with solid stock for laying out parts and yes, you can move things around, etc. My primary concern is that layout programs tend to "follow the edges" of a board which may not be the ideal way to insure grain and color matching across components and "this little thing" can be the difference between a nice project result and an outstanding project result. I cannot tell you how many times I've taken a board and "changed the edge" simply to get things to match up a lot better. Yes, I do have a slider that makes that super easy, but the same can be done with a sled or track saw, too. And this certainly creates more waste. I actually did that this past week while creating the components for a hall table I'm working on to insure that the natural edge was "balanced" across the apron pieces since it would appear at the bottom of them.

[Doug Hepler]

Jim, point taken.

Doug

[Gary Ragatz]

(2) Use a layout program. I use the free version of cutlist (http://www.delphiforfun.org.ws034.al...ms/CutList.htm). Note that this is different from the "free" trial version of Cutlist Plus. It is a bit clunky but it works very well. Put your best guess of the sizes of supply pieces and your cutout parts into the program and use its layout to estimate how many boards you will need.

Thanks for the link to the free version of Cutlist - I downloaded it this morning, and it seems like it will be useful. As I was playing around with it, I ran across some anomalies, and wanted to bring them to the attention of the author, but none of the "comment" or "feedback" links on the site worked. I did a little bit of googling and discovered an obituary for the author of the program, Gary Darby. He passed away in July, at age 79.

I assume Cutlist Plus will be maintained, going forward, but I don't know how long the free version of Cutlist will continue to be available.

[lowell holmes]

I have glued boards together to get widths I need. If you carefully match grain patterns, it is not distracting.

[Robert Engel]

Michael,

Yes, you are confined to the stock on hand.

4" to 2 1/2 you're not really losing that much by the time you mill it.

I find it best to got see what width boards they have and try to do the most economical layout.

I always figure 20% or, in your case, an extra board.

I use CutList to calculate layouts and material needs.

[Mark Rainey]

On very rare occasions, it works out. I sent my cutlist for a bunch of reproduction 18th Century window sash to a supplier of Southern Long Leaf Pine. I told him, if possible, I wanted all very fine, straight grain, with no nail holes, or knots. A few weeks later I got a call from him saying he had it together. He had been in the Heart Pine reclaiming business for 40 years, and had some piles of stuff that were "too good to throw away, but too small for anyone to want". It was perfect. He said he was about to give the small pieces, that turned out to be perfect for muntins, to a Boy Scout Troop, to use for kindling. He didn't come close to giving it to me, but I was glad to get it at any price.

what a find Tom! Love that straight grained clear wood especially when using hand planes.

[Prashun Patel]

choose either economy or aesthetics. I have been disappointed every time I try to hit both targets completely.

Or choose cheaper wood so you can buy extra.



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