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Thread: Gang cut first dovetails in anger or no?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Northeast PA
    Posts
    527
    I use a $20 Olson coping saw that I bought on Amazon with good results. I’ve toyed with the idea of buying a fancy Knew Concepts fret saw but I just can’t justify the need when my cheapo does just fine.
    ---Trudging the Road of Happy Destiny---

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Perth, Australia
    Posts
    9,491
    Quote Originally Posted by Tony Wilkins View Post
    I’m only cutting the two sides. I actually do like sawing the dovetails, I just haven’t found a method of removing waste I like. Too much chopping with chisels alone, too many broken fret saw blades, and tried my TFWW bowsaw today for the first time and it was tough to turn.
    Hi Tony, there are a couple of tips I can pass on which might change your experience.

    The first one is that if you are breaking fretsaw blades, then you are (pulling them ... I assume) too hard. Loosen up and pull g-e-n-t-l-y. Watch the blade, and do not let it deflect much.

    When you do this, you gain a great deal of control over the cut. This means you can saw within a mm or two of the baseline, which leaves very little waste to remove ...



    The second tip is a key to maintaining a straight baseline, and it also makes it easier to chop out the remaining waste.

    Before fretsawing the waste, deepen and then undercut the line at the baseline to create a chisel wall ...



    Only fretsaw after this is done. You will wind up with this ...



    Chopping 1mm slices to the midpoint is how you finish off ...



    Easy peasy

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Lubbock, Tx
    Posts
    1,490
    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    Hi Tony, there are a couple of tips I can pass on which might change your experience.

    The first one is that if you are breaking fretsaw blades, then you are (pulling them ... I assume) too hard. Loosen up and pull g-e-n-t-l-y. Watch the blade, and do not let it deflect much.

    When you do this, you gain a great deal of control over the cut. This means you can saw within a mm or two of the baseline, which leaves very little waste to remove ...



    The second tip is a key to maintaining a straight baseline, and it also makes it easier to chop out the remaining waste.

    Before fretsawing the waste, deepen and then undercut the line at the baseline to create a chisel wall ...



    Only fretsaw after this is done. You will wind up with this ...



    Chopping 1mm slices to the midpoint is how you finish off ...



    Easy peasy

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Great stuff as usual Derek

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Longview WA
    Posts
    27,427
    Blog Entries
    1
    One reason to read dovetail threads forever is there might be an explanation of something seen before but explained or documented slightly different. BANG, something all of a sudden clicks.

    By spending a few seconds more making a knife wall, many more can be saved on the next step.

    Also the technique of watching the fret saw blade for flex.

    Thanks Derek,

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Lubbock, Tx
    Posts
    1,490
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Koepke View Post
    One reason to read dovetail threads forever is there might be an explanation of something seen before but explained or documented slightly different. BANG, something all of a sudden clicks.

    By spending a few seconds more making a knife wall, many more can be saved on the next step.

    Also the technique of watching the fret saw blade for flex.

    Thanks Derek,

    jtk
    I read Derek’s site a lot and I didn’t remember that last bit of pictorial. I think it will be very helpful. Now all I need is the energy to go back out to the shop. The spirit is eager but the flesh is weak to paraphrase.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Lubbock, Tx
    Posts
    1,490
    Bonus question
    As far as the sides of the Dutch tool chest, the inside faces would be the reference faces, yes?

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Poughkeepsie, NY
    Posts
    207
    Quote Originally Posted by Tony Wilkins View Post
    Bonus question
    As far as the sides of the Dutch tool chest, the inside faces would be the reference faces, yes?
    Yes, that is how I do it. The inside I want to be flat / straight /square, as that is where I am fitting / referencing other parts and pieces. The outside just has to look good.

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