Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 31 to 39 of 39

Thread: Saw Recommendations - Ripping 8/4 Red Oak

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Lubbock, Tx
    Posts
    1,490
    How are you planning on cutting the plywood?

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Seattle (Lake Forest Park), Washington
    Posts
    14
    Quote Originally Posted by lowell holmes View Post
    I have a nice Disston 5 1/2 point rip saw that will make that cut easily.
    +1 on the Disston D-8 5 ½ rip. Will be a lot of work but, if you set up to sharpen and set the saw, you will have a really good opportunity to fool around with rake, ± slight flame, and degree of set. It will be a lot of work and won't be too quick but you will finish with more than just resawed wood.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Loveland, CO
    Posts
    418
    Quote Originally Posted by Tony Wilkins View Post
    How are you planning on cutting the plywood?
    Tony, the plywood is already cut and assembled to the frame. I used my Ryobi job site table saw to cut the plywood to size, drawer openings were cut via jigsaw, and all frame components were cut by hand with a Disston 8TPI crosscut saw.


  4. #34
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    United Kingdom - Devon
    Posts
    503
    I echo Brian. Search David Weaver on YouTube and watch his video. Also, Warren makes a very good point. The project sounds extensive for a first run at resawing. Practicing on a smaller project would give the chance to learn with very low risk.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Loveland, CO
    Posts
    418
    Quote Originally Posted by Graham Haydon View Post
    I echo Brian. Search David Weaver on YouTube and watch his video. Also, Warren makes a very good point. The project sounds extensive for a first run at resawing. Practicing on a smaller project would give the chance to learn with very low risk.
    Thanks, Graham! I'll take a look into David Weaver to get some more insights.

    I do plan to practice a bit before tackling the oak. I have some miscellaneous pine laying around that I'm sure ripping into strips won't be a bad thing to have laying around. And practicing on something softer is probably a better starting point than the oak. But I have to start somewhere, right? My drawers don't have to be perfect, just functional. I figure it's better to practice on something like this, drawer sides that won't really be seen much, rather than a nicer piece of furniture I want in our living space.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Lubbock, Tx
    Posts
    1,490
    Quote Originally Posted by Eric Schubert View Post
    Thanks, Graham! I'll take a look into David Weaver to get some more insights.

    I do plan to practice a bit before tackling the oak. I have some miscellaneous pine laying around that I'm sure ripping into strips won't be a bad thing to have laying around. And practicing on something softer is probably a better starting point than the oak. But I have to start somewhere, right? My drawers don't have to be perfect, just functional. I figure it's better to practice on something like this, drawer sides that won't really be seen much, rather than a nicer piece of furniture I want in our living space.
    The thing about drawers is there doesn’t seem to be much forgiveness to be functional. They have to fit.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Loveland, CO
    Posts
    418
    Quote Originally Posted by Tony Wilkins View Post
    The thing about drawers is there doesn’t seem to be much forgiveness to be functional. They have to fit.
    True! But the thickness of the sides/front/back of the drawers isn't overly critical, as long as they hold and support the drawer bottoms. They just need to be sturdy, straight, and square. So, if my sawing results in uneven thickness (which I'm sure is inevitable), I'll have to correct that with planing. I expect that would be necessary regardless of my sawing method.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Loveland, CO
    Posts
    418
    Just as a quick follow-up to this thread, I decided to stick with a familiar format and purchase a Lynx 26" 4.5TPI rip saw. (It helped that I had Amazon credit sitting around, and I found it available there with Prime shipping...) In the future, I'd still love to take a look at a Roubo frame saw. I feel like they might be easier on the back, since you saw upright instead of bent over a saw bench. But for now, the familiarity will likely be a big boon to making straight cuts. I'll follow up again once I have the saw and have had a chance to test it out.

    I had considered a Pax saw, or even something from Wenzloff or Bad Axe, but those are just too pricey for me to justify right now. Someday, maybe....... I'd rather save the money for some wood and files to keep my blades sharp, for the time being.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Dickinson, Texas
    Posts
    7,655
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Chesnut View Post
    +1 on the Disston D-8 5 ½ rip. Will be a lot of work but, if you set up to sharpen and set the saw, you will have a really good opportunity to fool around with rake, ± slight flame, and degree of set. It will be a lot of work and won't be too quick but you will finish with more than just resawn wood.
    And if you find an old saw, sharpen and set the teeth, it will be a fun trip. I got started and have 10 or 12 saws.

    https://www.google.com/search?q=shar...hrome&ie=UTF-8

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UA5DixEaaUo

    It is fun to make a new saw handle as well.
    Last edited by lowell holmes; 10-15-2018 at 11:40 PM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •