The giant one I have pictured has alternate shear on four cutters. It's 350mm in diameter though, so creates a bit of a breeze....Originally Posted by Martin Wasner
B
The giant one I have pictured has alternate shear on four cutters. It's 350mm in diameter though, so creates a bit of a breeze....
B
Contributor
Hi Brent, your rebating head is going to serve 2 functions for you, rebating and pattern copying.
I normally prefer larger diameter cutters, however if your patterns won't accept a 100mm head, that's the only time I would select the smaller one............Regards, Rod.
Exactly, that's the reason I have two. I haven't used the small one for that yet, but I may some day and besides, It's also a 40mm euroblock. Additionally though Rod, with a stub spindle, both of these can be used for tenoning for milling full length scribed (or not) shoulders which is handy. I have bearings to match each.
Now the giant manhole cover head I pictured will not be going on the spindle moulder!
B
Member
No, only one direction. The cut quality is superb--very smooth, no sanding required at all. The inserts seam to last forever--the new diamond coating must be working!
What are you using?
I've never had a shear-cut rebate block insert get dull....because they last so long they usually suffer some other form of death first!
B
Guest
Four wing Dimension in Tooling. I could probably get away with no sanding, but I sand anyways. It takes nothing to sand though. Breeze over it and done. I don't know if it's the shear cut, or the opposite shear that does it, or just the head design in general, but the chips are fluffy. It raises hell in the baghouse if you are disciplined about keeping it empty.
The thing that has blown me away about that cutter is how long it has lasted. It's always powerfed which helps, and it's typically removing no more than an 1/8" of material, (usually less than a 1/16"), but I bet one set of knives saw over 50k lin/ft on that height setting and before we had to flip them. In fact, I think I've had the head four years, and it's on the second side of it's first set of knives. This set is about done though.
I typically use a high/low on it since it's a 2" tall head and we typically run just 13/16" material through it. Run the top half of the cutter until it's done, then run the bottom half.
Contributor
is sanding a need for good finiish adhesion it often is. Had stuff off serrated that I sanded as it was too smooth and was concerned. Going over something fast with 220 is a breeze not really sanding just scuffing up for some tooth. Guitar builders sure dont go very fine to help get tooth for finishing thnk they have told me 180 two different ones
I know what you mean. I rotated my knives one time because I felt I surely must have needed to, but I saw no change in performance/heat buildup etc at all!
Contributor
The most used shaper cutter in our shop is a Garniga Z4 sheer rebate head. I have had this cutter for 15 years + It has slots that accept chamfer, radius and slotting tools. Used mostly for rebating, stub tenons and easing edges but I have also made prototypes of window and door designs using this cutter. Inserts usually last a couple years and we run rebates in reverse when the top part of the cutter dulls.
I was reading Woodweb about the guy using a sheer rebate head for edge gluing and discovered it leaves a convex surface. I jointed a piece of 8/4 with mine today and sure enough slightly convex. Its very slight but would leave gaps in edge gluing. All the years I used this cutter and never noticed that. I never use the shaper for edging but use this cutter for counter profiles sometimes when doing square edge work and never had open joints with that.
rebate head.jpg
Guest
That's interesting. I'll have to take a look. A few times doing big table tops where it sounded easier to use the shaper to prep for gluing than a jointer we've used this head. Dead square, and a lower risk of tear out. We'd rough rip, joint, rip oversized, then blast it through the shaper to prep both edges. I never noticed anything, but I can't say I looked at it REALLY close.
That is interesting....I'll have to look too.
I usually use the jointer because I have the shear cut helical head in there, but I do a lot of widthing with the rebate block and an out board fence and feeder but I never noticed.
B
Guest
We use it for glue edges a lot for drawer parts. We've got sizes that get used almost every single job, so we rip oversized on the rip saw, and run them to size in full length sticks with an outboard fence as well and just keep 3-400 bd/ft of parts in stock and ready to go. It's nice being really accurate with the glue ups and not having to trim anything off once glued together.
I'm betting the cut being convex would be more noticeable on a full cut than it would be on a surfaced 4/4 part. We just haven't passed much thick material across it.
Joe, was that sheering one way, or opposite sheer? I'm betting it would halve the error if just going in a single direction. Or maybe I've got that backwards. Both ways made sense for a second there....
[OP]
Member
OK guys ,continuing education here what does an "outboard fence" set-up look like on a shaper ?
Member
I believe Martin has a youtube video on that setup.
Bob
Contributor
[QUOTE=Martin Wasner
I'm betting the cut being convex would be more noticeable on a full cut than it would be on a surfaced 4/4 part. We just haven't passed much thick material across it.
Joe, was that sheering one way, or opposite sheer? I'm betting it would halve the error if just going in a single direction. Or maybe I've got that backwards. Both ways made sense for a second there....
Martin,
i think on 3/4” or less it would be hardly noticeable. My cutter sheers one way. It will be interesting to see how yours does on thicker material. I tried to measure the gap on the 8/4 I ran with a feeler gauge. It was about 0.04mm total.
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