shaper cutterhead questions....

[Martin Wasner]

Martin,
i think on 3/4” or less it would be hardly noticeable. My cutter sheers one way. It will be interesting to see how yours does on thicker material. I tried to measure the gap on the 8/4 I ran with a feeler gauge. It was about 0.04mm total.

I learned two things.

1. I don't think my head will do a full two inches. I had a little strip left over when I ran this walnut, it is 1-15/16" thick.
2. It makes a convex cut.

I don't have any feeler gauges here, but it's really slight. I'd definetly say less so than the dude's on woodweb. I'd be curious what shaper he's running it in and if the spindle wandering around has something to do with it. This was ran in a medium duty shaper, a SCM T130N. I'm assuming yours was in the Martin, and it's healthy so that should be as solid a bench mark as anything.

Why it rotated the image, I have no idea.....

[Martin Wasner]

OK guys ,continuing education here what does an "outboard fence" set-up look like on a shaper ?

Here's mine

[Rod Sheridan]

Wow Martin, now I have outboard fence envy

Mine's just a piece of 1/2" X 4" CRS flat bar.................Rod

[Martin Wasner]

Wow Martin, now I have outboard fence envy

Mine's just a piece of 1/2" X 4" CRS flat bar.................Rod

You just gotta learn to be lazy. Working hard is for schmucks.

I'd really like to set it up with some ball screws on servo drives with a controller. I know nothing about that stuff unfortunately. I've had the hard parts in a cart a few times and not pulled the trigger. I was just going to use a couple of Z drives for small cnc applications. I can fab, have fab'd, or jury rig just about anything physical to work. When it comes to electrons and code, I'm a complete dummy.

[brent stanley]

I learned two things.

1. I don't think my head will do a full two inches. I had a little strip left over when I ran this walnut, it is 1-15/16" thick.
2. It makes a convex cut.

I don't have any feeler gauges here, but it's really slight. I'd definetly say less so than the dude's on woodweb. I'd be curious what shaper he's running it in and if the spindle wandering around has something to do with it. This was ran in a medium duty shaper, a SCM T130N. I'm assuming yours was in the Martin, and it's healthy so that should be as solid a bench mark as anything.

Why it rotated the image, I have no idea.....

Hi Martin, thanks for doing the video and the test run of the rebate block. That's a helluva outboard fence setup! A little more elaborate than my piece of mdf c-clamped to the table! I will have to check my rebate blocks to see if they also make a convex surface.....interesting.

B

[Mike Kees]

Thanks Martin. So when you are using this outboard fence to trim pieces to width do you angle your power feeder slightly towards the outboard side to keep that edge on the fence ?

[Rod Sheridan]

Thanks Martin. So when you are using this outboard fence to trim pieces to width do you angle your power feeder slightly towards the outboard side to keep that edge on the fence ?

I'm not Martin however the answer is yes, the machine fence/hood is just for guarding/dust collection........Rod.

[brent stanley]

Thanks Martin. So when you are using this outboard fence to trim pieces to width do you angle your power feeder slightly towards the outboard side to keep that edge on the fence ?

Hi Mike, yes that's how it works. Very slick approach.

Do you have this book yet? https://www.amazon.ca/Spindle-Moulde.../dp/0854421505

Very good book, and it will get you very excited about your shaper!

B

[Jared Sankovich]

Any shear angle head that uses straight inserts will cut a convex profile. The severity will be directly related to the shear angle of the knives. I've never found it to be much of a issue in practical application as the rebate heads I have have a very slight shear angle.

Shear knives from my SET that cut a square (flat) profile.
20180908_155010.jpg

[Warren Lake]

thats funny Jared as I was thinking that I walked past a machine the other day sitting on it was a serrated ball bearing head with straight knives on it for whatever reason I last had it out likely thinking about something. No shear but not needed.

Martin saved your photos to look at them right side up, thats a bit wild did you guys just discover this now or has this been known about from the dealers for a while?

[Martin Wasner]

thats a bit wild did you guys just discover this now or has this been known about from the dealers for a while?

I didn't know that it made a curved cut.

[Joe Calhoon]

I learned two things.

1. I don't think my head will do a full two inches. I had a little strip left over when I ran this walnut, it is 1-15/16" thick.
2. It makes a convex cut.

I don't have any feeler gauges here, but it's really slight. I'd definetly say less so than the dude's on woodweb. I'd be curious what shaper he's running it in and if the spindle wandering around has something to do with it. This was ran in a medium duty shaper, a SCM T130N. I'm assuming yours was in the Martin, and it's healthy so that should be as solid a bench mark as anything.

Why it rotated the image, I have no idea.....

Martin, my cut looked identical to yours. Not as bad as the other guys. Interesting to say the least...

All my tenon disks have shear but I think the distance is usually not very long so no noticeable gapping.

9AC614C9-A9A6-4442-A171-DC42569D3BAB.jpg

[brent stanley]

Any shear angle head that uses straight inserts will cut a convex profile. The severity will be directly related to the shear angle of the knives. I've never found it to be much of a issue in practical application as the rebate heads I have have a very slight shear angle.

Shear knives from my SET that cut a square (flat) profile.
20180908_155010.jpg

Yup, it makes perfect sense that it cuts a little convex If you think about it.

[Martin Wasner]

Yup, it makes perfect sense that it cuts a little convex If you think about it.

I've been beating myself up all day trying to make sense why. I don't get it.

[brent stanley]

Hard to type out, but imagine you're holding the insert between your fingers right on the edge of the rebate block in a "no shear" orientation.....so parallel to the bore. If you measure from the centre of the block to the cutting edge, it's going to be the same on the ends of the insert as in the middle. And the back will be touching the block along It's whole length.

Now, twist the insert to orient it towards a shear-type cut. Only the middle will be touching the block, the top an bottom will not be any longer.....the more you twist, the bigger the gap gets. Of course, the outer (cutting) edge is doing the same thing and if you measure the distance from the bore centre to the cutting edge, It's grown.

That's how I think of it anyway...

B