I do not have HW flooring yet, just subfloor (3/4 T&G Fir dated 1929). We removed a couple of pieces to assess how the boxing could be done. That is when I figured out I had only a joist and not a real beam to work with. I would love to hire a pro but nobody wants to do a 48" long baluster. I cannot see your pictures. It looks like you attached 2 images but they are not shown. Thanks
Joists are typical of modern construction. It will be fine as long as it is well tied to the joists attached to it. If you see gaps at those joints screw some blocking into the joint in both directions, with some PL construction adhesive. As I mentioned before, add cripples and/or blocking where needed to make the newel as stiff as possible. Screwing the subfloor in place will help, too, but don't use construction adhesive just in case you ever have to get back in there.
John
Last edited by John TenEyck; 10-02-2018 at 12:55 PM.
Thanks for the clarifications John TenEyck,
Ok, If I understood correctly, you are suggesting what I called at the very beginning the "riding" post . What I meant was that the post with be lapping front and back (your s2nd sketchup). In this way I will be able to have the half and full post centered to the 2x8. Here what the trick is: 1) I cannot find a newel post bigger than 3" each side. I am looking for a square 42" high post (no fuss). I would say that the two laps will be way too thin with a 3" post riding the 2x8. Do I have to beef up the post with some 3/4 baltic birch in order to get to 4 1/2" at least? However I will still have the problem that 4 1/2 - 1 3/4= 2 3/4 which divided by 2 give me still too thin sections. It is true that the post attached to the wall will be quite sturdy and will help the stand alone but it looks like the lapping on one side it is the only solution I have. The question remain, how thick does the lap have to be? Please also note that I do not have the beams I red crossed.
You can buy box newels in most any size you need. https://www.stairsupplies.com/produc...es-box-newels/ Glue a plug into the bottom so that it's solid and then cut your joinery. That's exactly how I built the newels I showed earlier. 4-1/2" - 1-3/4" = 2-3/4"/2 = 1-3/8" which is more than enough when it straddles the joist, but you can go bigger if you want. Your other option is to use a 3-1/2" solid newel, cut a single 1-3/4" lap in it and lag bolt it to the outside of the joist.
If the framing is insufficient add whatever cripples and blocking is needed when you have the subfloor up so that the newel will be rigid. Code says the railing has to resist a 200 lb lateral force anywhere along the balustrade. That's a big guy leaning with full body weight against it. Build accordingly.
Thanks John, I will keep shopping around. $250X2 is a lot of money for a room that has no ROI. The solution is there ...now I need to find the material without breaking the bank. Thanks again
Last edited by laura vianello; 10-03-2018 at 8:51 AM.
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